Stagio

Just made one out of a cap from a crystal light container. Works like a charm. Just used one of the collared shakey jigs. Used a 1/4 oz head, and for now a rubber jig skirt collar to hold it in place w/ a drop of glue. Be sure to put a split ring or something comparable to help impart the action. It'll wobble w/out but not as much. Tip-- used a smaller (don't know what size) colorado blade for the round end, then gave it a bit more width at the narrower end to allow for the hole to be cut. If it holds up to a fish, I JUST SAVED A TON of money cause those things are darn expensive. we'll see! Worked great in the tank though. Even my goldfish looked hungry.... or maybe they were just admiring the way it shook it's tail. I tried a coffee can lid, and it worked, but the bill didn't seem like it would hold up that well. The crystal light container lid was slightly more rigid but still flexible. I'll try and post some results once I get an open spot in the ice! Steve

Well this may be a long shot, but the Ultra Steel sinkers may have a blueing?!? oil used on them similar to what is used on guns to prevent corrosion while stored. This may be coming out when they are heated. Also, some Ultra Steel weights are scent impregnated--since steel is porous, they have this opportunity and their website indicates this option is available. For either, I would suggest using a heavy duty degreaser or even soaking them in something like goof off for a bit prior to painting. This may strip those properties out and allow you to get a good finish. I have used the Vinyl paints--not impressed. Powder all the way for me if you can remedy the mystery goo. Good luck!

I do both football and round. Causes flash on the smaller hooks but you can tighten up the cavity with some Silver Putty or some of the RTV compounds out there.

Try captainhookswarehouse.com

I have used them quite a bit this year already. I can say they are pretty good in and around brush, GREAT around standing timber. They do leave a little to be desired around boulders when you are bottom bouncing, but there really isn't a shape that will keep you from getting wedged between 2 rocks. I do wish they would come out with some lighter models for finesse fishing. That has been the chief complaint from my customers is that you are limited to 1/4 oz and up. Grass hasn't really come up yet around the lakes I fish so I haven't really been able to test that so far.

Trying to glitter clear over my jig heads and I cannot get the glitter to evenly coat the head when I use it in my fluid bed. I spoke w/ CSI, they advised to use a salt shaker but for production, this is rather slow....Any suggestions? If not, anyone wanna buy some CSI Glitter clear, I have just under a LB of each, Blue, Orange and Red. Steve.

The 1/4 cavity accepts 3/0 or 4/0 just like the 5/16. Seems small to me but more compact lures punch through grass better i guess. I don't find much grass in the water I fish so I cant comment on how effective it is. Check here: http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=332

I would recommend the Wally World 30 to 60 gallon w/ a "T" adapter to join the 2 seperate hoses into one. I just built another base last weekend and the 30 to 60 is the way to go. The "T" i also got al W-M for about a buck. This was my first self built bed---so easy thanks to you guys! Steve

Just in case anyone was wondering I did my reasearch and made a few phone calls. I got most of my information from a man at www.hallmarkmetals.net. They had the alloy of tin/antimony/coper for about 6 bucks a lb + shipping and said he didn't charge extra for smaller orders. The mans name was Steve---good name, and the alloy "number" was 928. SUPER nice guy and very informative. He understands the problem and based upon what you are willing to spend, he will find a reasonable solution for you. I am not "promoting" them but just giving a reference so you guys don't think I am full of piss and wind. I some of my melting temps may be off. Was getting quite a lot of info. Steve

Well there is good news and bad news---I'll give you the good 1st! Good There is a substitute available. The bad- It is going to weigh about 2/3rds the amout of lead and will cost about 6x as much depending on your lead price point. It is an alloy that is comprised of Tin, antimony and copper. Melting point is around 500F and it is much safer. Bismuth which is another sub but is extremely brittle and has a melting point of around 250F. Good luck painting/curing your lures... ( I cant believe I am saying this ) Lets face it, Lead is toxic, can have an impact on our health (some more than others) and does harm enviornment. I've probably lost 10+ lbs of lead weights jigs etc over the years.... We love lure making cause we love fishing right? Toxic water, who will go fishing? :yawn:I really don't agree 100% with what I am writing, but my G/F insisted I put this in here. Though I hate admitting she is right---she makes sense. At least I still have my remote control. I may not start right away, but the sooner we switch, some by force others by choice... the more subs they will manufacture and hopefully the price will come down... Steve

I use the Devcon 2T w/ a 30 min working time. Take a little longer to dry of course, but dry's clear and holds fairly well for the application. If you jerk on the individual strands, they will come out from time to time but I don't know many who do this while fishing. I use the full guard for ease of use and production. I use the little block I showed below to hold the jig while I drill. Set it up to give me the perfect angle if I rest the bit on the block. I have a 8 dollar-- rechargable screw driver with a hex shank 1/8" bit and drill them out. (you can get the B/D screw driver at Wal-mart and I got the bits a Lowes) For 2 bits and the screw driver it was about 12 bucks. The key to the drill for me was low RPMs. Less risk of it grabbing and cutting too deep. I can drill and glue about 70 to 100 jigs per hour when I am on a roll. That is how I adjust the guard for the 5/0 hooks. I tried the dowel method and keeping the base pins in while painting, but had issues getting the weed guard in place probably due to shrinkage after the lead freezes. I am new w/ the brush guards but this has been the best method for me. Big thing is to get something that has a low RPM on the "drill". There are others on here w/ much more experience, just sharing what I have found useful.

I got some crummy lead on ebay once. Had the same result. I just skimmed it off with a ladle, I just don't know where to discard it. I refuse to throw it in the trash because of the potential hazard. I was going to call a waste facility but haven't gotten around to it. ended up being about a cup of stuff that looked like dirt. I just have it in a box. Anyone know where to get rid of this stuff?

Agreed- The pot is definatly a problem. Try using a propane torch to melt the lead around the sides of the pot and use less lead. It may heat more thoroughly. Otherwise you will serve your time better to spend the money on a new one. Cabela's has the best price on the 10lb model (which I have and recommend HIGHLY) for 49.99. If you have one of their stores near by they will deliver to the store and save you the shipping cost. Thats what I did. Steve

Sounds like you will need a new pot soon, but that doesn't stop you from working around it. If you get a new one, I have a Lee II which I love. bottom pouring. Worth 2x what I paid just for the speed and convenience. 1. Keep your ladle in the lead--it will keep the lead hot for longer as you poor. 2. Refill your ladle for each cavity---again heat is your friend. 3. Smoking the mold is simply getting a candle (larger wick the better) and building some soot on the face of the mold. Hold the flame over each cavity until they turn black. Then wipe away the excess from the side that isn't filling. That will help any trapped air escape. 4. Tape is the same concept as the soot just with a different medium. Place the small piece of tape (1 for the whole mold) near the place on the cavity where it isn't filling (in this case the back of the collar) leave some room between the edge of the cavity and your tape. It will allow air to escape. There are more options but the melter may be your biggest challenge. Steve

How are you melting your lead? Try smoking the mold if your lead is hot enough or placing a tiny piece of tape (size of a finish nail head) on the face. Start at the handle and move towards the hinge. Sounds like it isn't venting- assuming the lead is hot enough and soft. Steve

Sorry my dimensions were off a bit on the chunks of wood. These were just scrap I had laying around the shop. The one I use for drilling is 2x1.5x3. I had to cut it down to allow access w/ my drill bit. No tap needed, i use the base hole pins so there is a starter there, you have to open a little once you paint for ease in getting your guards in there. Yes, they stand up fine. Water just opened here, but they stand up fine in the aquarium or on the bench. The slots are under cut so not to damage the hook point. I have 2, one wide enough to hold colars, one for screw lock--just a deeper grove with less angle. Very simple to do and saves your hands big time. The pic other shows the size difference between the hooks 5/0 to 3/0 left to right. The only reason I mentioned this is because it is more drastic than other hooks I use, espeically the shaft length. Hope this helps!

I have been using the mustad 32786 Bronze. I cannot say this enough though, you have to be careful not to damage your mold using larger hooks than recommended. I have had a few probs recently with other molds but have found ways to overcome them. It may stretch the cavity but I personally have had no issues w/ this mold...yet. Adjusting the angle of brushguards- If you cast your guards rather than using the pins, this is not possible. If you don't, you may try this---- I have had some problems with my wrists lately so I took a 2 x 3 about 6 inches long and used a very fine drill bit to carve a cavity to hold the jigs while i file sprues and drill out the weed guard holes after painting. It keeps the jigs from twisting in your hands while you drill the base pin holes. Havent had wrist pain since. I use a B&D cordless screw driver (about 120 RPM's) with a hex shank 1/8" drill bit to open the holes left by the base pin. At this time since the jig is secure, I can just keep the bit about 1/8 away from the hook while drilling. Not an exact science, but I have gotten pretty good at it. I recommend picking up a few of the larger hooks PRIOR to buying a lot of them so you can see how they look. I'll try to post some pics if i can. (new at this, but i'll figure it out.) If you have seen the difference beteen the 3/0 and 4/0, the difference between the 4/0 and 5/0 is about the same. Much longer shank and much bigger bite. Some may not like them but they work for a really BIG profile bait and give you that bulky look when you want it.

Just a note, I've been using the 5/0 in the 1/2 cavity. You have to adjust the angle of the brush guard slightly but its not bad. I like the bigger hook too! Just a suggestion though, you have to be sure your lead is hotter to ensure a proper pour. I tried w/ my lee on a 7 and couldn't get it to fill completly. On a 9 it worked on 19 out of 20.

Soldiering tool may melt the lead w/in the eye and not the jighead? I have always used an old set of wire cutters and a pocket knife.

RFdong, Its the 1/4 oz that I noticed this with. I was able to solve the issue by using a trailer with floating craw claws. Not sure what kind it is, I found it laying in the bottom of my tacklebox with no bag. It stood up fine on soft bottom areas but when I tried to get it to stand on the large rock in my acquarim is when I noticed a few probs. Still a good jig though and by design, I think it will be EXCELLENT for flipping. Still haven't been able to test in grass so I cannot comment on that yet. This head was designed to deflect off of cover, not necessarily stand up. It was just a nice benefit.

Went through some old jigs to see if maybe "someone" had made a few jigs with the wrong hooks and I did. Must have grabbed out of the wrong bin or had one mixed in. The difference between a 4 and 5/0 is pretty huge, so I must have been a zone or luremaking lala land. I bought an expoxy putty called "Quick Steel" and I am hoping that will resolve the issue. Thought a putty would alow me to make an impression rather than using JB Weld which would be more trial/error. Stuff is good to 500 degrees which is a bit of a concern but i'll post and let everyone know how it works out.

Thanks TJ. I went throuhg and cleaned the mold really well and it is still doing it. I think over time somehow the mold has worn down right where the eyelet leaves the cavity---if that makes sense? I generally remove the jig by the sprue and I have never used larger hooks than recommended so I am not 100% sure how it has happened, maybe it is just the nature of the beast. Is there something i can reshape this with beyond going to a machine shop? I saw some posts that said using JB Weld but I am a little leary of ruining my mold. I have gotten pretty quick at removing the flash but its hard to get in a grove when you are constantly haveing to "repair" product. Not sure what the life cycle of a mold is but maybe its time for a replacement. Also, I think I bought my fluid bed from you. Great product! Cut my paint useage and eyelet plugging down SIGNIFICANTLY!

I have a couple of cavities that are geting a great deal of flash around the eyelet. This is a football and round shakey jig multi size/hook mold. I use the 32798's in it pretty much exclusively. Is this because my lead is too hot, because I use the nipple on my lead pot to inject and create pressure? Is it something I am doing and is there a way to fix it? Steve

My experience says remove as much as you can if you hang for curing. As far as the outside, I don't unless I have repeated problems with specific hook eyes or jig styles. Couple of things to consider-- Size of the eyelet- I do mostly bass jigs so eyes are bigger, less risk of them replugging when I cure them. 4/0 and larger don't usually pose a problem to me unless I under heat and/or keep in the paint too long. How you position your jigs to cure- I have 2 systems, I use a foil roasting pan with some old wire hangers strung across and foil to keep them separated. The pan cools quickly and allows me to catch any drips that happen when I overpaint. For jigs more prone to plugging, I have the clamp racks from Stamanic to keep the jigs upright. You can also get custom sizes directly from CSI at about $0.75 an inch. I never really worry about the outside when I use these racks, but they are semi-expensive and somewhat time consuming compared to other methods I have tried. The paint will flow out when cured but onece it cures it can be a bear to remove. If they close and you don't remove the paint thoroughly, sharp edges WILL break the line with a good hookset.