luke1wcu

After reading so many good things about this stuff, I have finally decided to give it a try. I rarely foil baits because I find the process frustrating and rarely seem to get the effect I am seeking. After shopping around, it seems that shipping from most suppliers seem extremely high. As much as the tape itself. Where do you all find good deals on this stuff? Thanks! Luke

If you have cleaned it and it is still sticking, try a couple drops of Iwata Super Lube directly on the needle and spread/wipe it with a cloth or paper towel. I just recently overcame these problems you are describing.

Awesome find! I have been finding lost lures all my life and have never found something so rare and unique. Definitely one for the true collector!

Thank you for all the help with this guys. I'm going to experiment with as soon as I can get myself off the lake long enough to do some painting.

one more for good measure...

I'm trying to figure out how this artist achieved this particular scale pattern. This is from a bait that I saw on Ebay, where I often browse for ideas. I didn't want to include any names or even the full picture because you never know how some may react and I don't want to go steppin on no toes or nothing. I think this picture gets the idea across though. Anybody know how I could achieve a pattern like this???

The best foil to use is the thinnest you can find. Most use the cheap dollar store brand. To apply the foil, I use Elmer's spray adhesive. There are many other ways to do this but this is a basic overview. It has worked well for me.

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I've already ordered 5601 Transparent Base and 5608 Illustration Base before reading your post on 4010. 5608 sounds similar to 4010, so I will play around with that a bit and see if that helps. I'm pretty confident that this should reduce my tip dry which seems almost instantaneous lately and therefore help some with my clogging issues.

Thanks for the replies. I now have the airbrush cleaned out real well. There was more paint dried in there that I don't think I got the first time around. The brush sprayed water and cleaner with no problems, which it wasn't doing before. Now, the true test is to try and paint. I am also going to play around with thinning and retarding the paint. I'm guessing this is Createx Illustration Base. Is this what you all use to reduce tip dry in warmer climates? I didn't see any Createx product labeled "retarder." Maybe I am failing to read in between the lines, but I just want to be sure. Shipping ain't cheap. Thanks again!

This is concerning an Iwata Revolution HP-C. I have been having a number of problems lately and I am thinking that I may be in need of a new nozzle. Before I go and spend the money, I want to see if anyone may know for sure what I need. When I pull back on the trigger, there is a delay before paint starts to spray. The spray is also inconsistant at best with a lot of splattering. The paint inside the cup is also bubbling. Two things that seem to help are to increase psi and loosen the nozzle cap. It helps but only momentarily. I know that could not be my answer though as I have never had to do this before to get the brush to spray properly and consistently. My first guess would be that I have a clog somewhere. I'm starting to doubt this though because my problems arose after reassembly after soaking for a few hours in Createx Restorer. Just to be sure, I cleaned it two more times since this problem started, so I really don't think its clogged. Now, I and starting to think that either its the summer heat here in North Carolina that is making my Createx dry almost instantly and that I need to invest in some Createx Illustration Base or I am experiencing the symptoms of a damaged nozzle. Please help me! I'm going through withdrawal.

I've been trying to achieve crawfish patterns using a tongue depressor as a stencil. One side came out great but now I am having trouble matching it on the other side. Is there something I am missing here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

An alternative to a stencil burner that I have been doing lately is to hold the blade of my xacto knife over a flame for only 2-3 seconds. Its like a hot knife through butter. Too much heat will make a mess of the plastic though. Just be careful, I don't need any more of a guilty conscience than I already have.

I use the ones from the packaging that my lures come in. I have also had good luck using the clear plastic boxes that berries and cherry tomatoes often come in. Just trim off the solid pieces and use those. I tried using a heat gun and it melted the plastic too fast for me to do what I wanted with it. It also began to soften the lure that I was attempting to mold. My hairdryer that I use for heat setting my paints worked just fine though. It does take a bit longer than the heat gun but that only gave me more time to mold the melted plastic how I wanted it around the bait. I also had to remind myself that I was trying to achieve functionality, not a good looking mold. This is a tough hobby sometimes for a perfectionist.

thanks!!! thats the kind of detail im looking for. I've been using createx paints. Can anyone give me some idea of what would be a good selection to start with from WASCO?

hey rookie, what bit are you using on your dremel?

Mark, I too use syringes and I believe it to be the most fool-proof way to mix accurate ratios. Therefore, I don't think that is the root of my problems. Of course it is a possibility as nothing is completely fool-proof. Thanks for the suggestion though. This hobby wouldn't be fun if it was easy. It ain't called fishin if all we do is catch, right?

BobP, so in a nutshell, it restripping the lure would be as easy as pealing off the rest of the epoxy? If so, I may just fish this bait until there is nothing left then clean it up and repaint it. Thanks! I usually only apply one coat of Etex unless I notice a spot that doesn't get covered. These coats are usually a bit thick; maybe that is counter productive. I'm going to experiment with multiple thin coats. thanks again!

Thanks for the response. I think what you see is another spot where the Etex is beginning to peel. The mixing may be the issue. Other lures in the same batch have not had this problem but they have not seen so much action either. I am also wondering if I affected the integrity of the topcoat when I drilled to clean out the hook hangers. Maybe that created an entry point for water to get under the epoxy.....?

That wasn't so hard

I have not had this problem before and I think I may have applied it too thin. It had started okay then quickly developed a worse than normal hook rash and has worn down through the paint. Then the paint started actually peeling in a spot that I don't think even get hit by the hooks. I have logged maybe 3-5 hours of use and 8-10 largemouth. I have others that have much more use and barely show any scratches from the hooks. I'm thinking either I put too thin of a coat of Etex on it, didn't let it cure long enough before fishing with it (between 36-48 hours) or there was some sort of contamination between the Createx and the Etex. I was hoping someone might have some experience with this. Also wondering if I should just slap another coat of Etex on it. They are still eating it up but the finish is degrading fast. At this point, I'd rather not strip and repaint since they like are still all over it. It suspends out of the package so I am weary of weighing it down with more Etex. Any suggestions? I know I could try Dick Nite's but I have just done so well thus far with Etex that I was hoping to just keep it simple. Trying not to fix it if it ain't broke. Thanks guys! I will try to post a photo when/if I figure out how to make it smaller than 500K