gone2long

In short no, but in the long yes, if your mold is not aligned properly, if it is over-heated or a bur was present then yes you could have a problem, it's all about moderation, your understanding of too tight may not be the same for others, crank a clamp down on a mold that may be thin in a certain area well then you get the picture!

Wow I'm not sure cadman when I finally dumped ie I just loaded firefox and it solved the issue so I'm not sure what controls there are to make a correction.

I gave up and switched to Firefox now I can paste and quote it has to be something with the server and ie cause I used to be able to.

Good suggestion I've used acrylic based dealer but didn't consider lacquer based well do that thanks!

That's where I'm leaning putting them in a ziplock bag and pour in concrete sealer and let them baste for 5 minutes dry then coat exterior with an under coat of D2T scuff paint and final top coat makes for a rock hard finish.

I've been using the same brush for many sessions I just clean in DA when done cheap set from AC Moore.

Thank you I did find it on your site, good read I just need to narrow down what sealer to use, I like epoxy as the final top coat so I'll do a little more reading to make sure whatever I use does not react with epoxy. Still in the build process of the drying wheel so I only work with one bait at a time and hand rotate in 5-10 minute intervals to prevent pooling so far so good. Funny that you mention that as while I was reading gobs of info I found salty's thread on it and a cut away of a plug that was properly sealed and you can clearly see the penetration, but no the plugs are CNC machined round and I surely don't want to wreck that handy work.

I think he's working with what's available in his neck of the woods I can imagine to have an injector shipped would be pretty pricey, as long as safety steps are taken no harm no fowl we have been improvising in this hobby from the beginning and some innovations have come from it, but point taken always think safety!

sounds like everyone is talking about soft plastic colorant not soft plastic paint?

Actually I haven't Mark these are not hand made by me but kits from Salty's and their quite large in comparison to bass baits. I have done some reading on through wire and it's seems quite clear that if you don't protect the inside portions of the bait that your exterior finish is likely to fail over time as water intrusion from the inside will eventually creap in. Dipping seems to be the only rational way to get protection from the inside, I have thought about possibly sealing the penetrations by hand but the design of the bait kinda limits that and I won't get a complete seal. I goiing to put them in a zip lock bag and pour in the concrete sealer and swish them around to get it into the slots and holes then let them air dry for 24 hours then proceed with the standard seal, paint and top coat I now have my Bob Smith epoxy so that's the route i'm going in.

Yeah my thinking is I want to seal/protect the inside portions of the plug, the thru wire and the points where the swivels connect and dipping seems the logical way. Will I still have a yellowing issue if I seal the wood with Etex after the BLO kinda like an intercoat clear? I do have a quart of Dupont concrete sealer I could dip in just wasn't sure how that would hold up to salt water?

I'm reading threads in the archives about BLO and it seems that most have had some type of issue be it yellowing over time, affecting the paint and so forth I was thinking that since I may toss a few of the these in the salt that I would do a hybrid, I was thinking to seal the internal holes for the wire and the grommet holes I would plug the ends of the through hole fill the grommet holes which would also channel the BLO down the wire race and let sit for some time then dump out let dry and then seal exterior with epoxy, any thoughts? or maybe dip in BLO let dry and use epoxy on top before paint? Just trying to avoid the yellowing issue since I don't get down the surf that often heck by the time I use these baits they may already have yellowed.

Sounds like someone over on bear's site may have what your looking for.

Hey guy's I'm waiting for my Knipex plier's for the kits I bought from Salty's (excellent product by the way) and haven't come across a thread that discusses to build or not to build before prep and paint. I've seen a few video's and they seem to show finished baits prior to finishing the through wire wanted to know what your method or take is on this. I seem to want to seal the blank before the through wire so the holes and lip slot get sealed but then I'm worried about the paint/finish being compromised by the man handling that surely takes place while wrapping the wire and such. I have no issue if the eyes and grommets get painted and can easily tape the lip so how is everyone else doing this?

Good to know thanks!

Hey Mark do you use the 4011 with standard createx? How's that work, I was under the impression that it wouldn't work well.

You must have the pre-set handle what that does is limit how far the needle pulls back so you can have the same consistant control every time you pull the trigger back but your needle should be snug in the nozzle and lightly tighten the chucking nut if all is good it should spray right, I have both the .35mm and .5mm so I'm not much help with the reduction but I will tell ya that I use the .5mm for regular createx and the .35mm for wicked and auto air regular createx seems to have a larger size to the pigment so the smaller the needle the more difficult it will be to spray as a rule try to match your brush to the paint line and/or type i.e. pearls are a bit larger and transparents are thinner it will go a long way in making your life easier. I also don't use water or home brew reducer only the reducer made for the paint line that also will give you the best results in my opinion water only breaks down the film strength of the paint. Check this site out pretty good stuff: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsites.google.com%2Fsite%2Fdonsairbrushtips%2F&ei=lhsrVMquLMX3yQTmlIGYDA&usg=AFQjCNGK0pf4yh9HV0rDv-nzY4wFkklWMQ&sig2=Lx_WirgeBI6H2zMawNgApA

What size needle/nozzle are you setup with? Not sure I understand when you say you have the needle too far in, do you mean you may have pushed it in too far and have damaged the nozzle? You should push the needle lightly until it stops and then snug up the lock nut. It sounds to me like you still have some gunk causing your issue what are you cleaning with? Get yourself some ab restorer and soak the nozzle and aircap the pick out any mung with a wooden tooth pick carefully and you should be good.

Thanks just what I was looking for!

I bought a bunch of musky lure kits from salty's and need pliers any suggestion on brand pro's and con's?

Here ya go: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCkQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mckenziesp.com%2FPolytranspar-Airbrush-Paints-C3511.aspx&ei=NTAnVPWLCMOUyAT2r4CgAQ&usg=AFQjCNGLGWib7luUJXPPCLtiLQXaXPf7xA&sig2=bD_zGNra-r5OoGjCvlILzQ

Well I hope the one on the left is a good one cause I just did 4 baits with it while waiting for my Bob Smith epoxy to get here

Well the only way I found to get a clean transition is to pout the bait in the color of the tail and then cut the tail off place back in the mold and pour. Lotta work though hope your just doing it for your self Yopu could try and make a gate out of some thin aluminum to stick in your mold at the point and let it set up and remove to pour the tail, I have a few molds with this technique for making split tails and they come out nice.

I just bought 12 pair of forceps for $15 on eBay