gone2long

I've been really hooked on painting cranks and the whole painting process so it only makes sense that I return to my roots and paint soft plastics and since I have a ton of molds and gallons of plastisol why not. My question is I purchased the Colure coat2o water based soft plastic paint and a bottle of Clearasol for dipping but would like another option. I make baits for myself and friends so infinite durability is not needed here the clearasol seems to me that it would take away some of the action in some of the baits I want to work with, is the VPI a decent top coat/sealer for soft plastics and can it be sprayed with an air brush? It seems to come in a volume i.e. a quart is the smallest amount does this stuff have storage issues like MCU as I don't do this every day just when I'm board/creative, I also am aware that it is pretty nasty stuff to be spraying in the house and a respirator is mandatory which I do anyway. With a quart being the smallest container offered it also sounds like you could skip the air brush and dip, no? I plan on talking to Bruce but I wanted a hands on from some folks here to get the pro's and con's of this before ordering.

If it's the one I reviewed it can be removed but I would love to hear how it holds up to toothy critters can't imagine that it would, as to top coating I don't see why not.

Well said bf that was my point earlier in the thread just didn't do all the typing you did.

Yeah only other possible weight reduction would be to change the hardware to lighter versions.

You'll get it right just remember less is more when applying paint, nice thin light coats with a heat set between and you'll be good, and don't sweat it when you heat set you'll see the sheen go away when the paint outgasses and sets.

As Mark said I also do an intercoat clear before applying the top coat never had a problem. I use future floor shine as its acrylic based but as stated clean your brush well it gets pretty hard. Oh and use a respirator stuff is nasty when atomized.

If people are selling product here they shouldn't be permitted to post anything regarding another vendor's product it's not professional nor is it truthful as a whole, we went through this with a couple of mold makers not so long ago it was down right stupid watching them trash each other on the open forum, nuf said!

Nice brush you should do fine.

I use the 5608 Illustration base for regular Createx but 4012 for Wicked and auto air, their website seems to indicate that for the regular Createx the high performance reducer is not listed but I've never tried it so I don't know if it is truly incompatible or not. I haven't had any problems yet with the 5608 I'm using an Eclipse and it sprays thicker acrylics great. As for the respirator well I would use one anyway but I can tell you that most of the reducers if not all are solvent based to some degree so I would err on the side of caution and use one.

If you mean parts paint - parts reducer it's more the consistancy by looks but I usually start at 1:1 but to be honest it's more what brush I'm using than anything else I match the paint to the brush, I have 4 all set up with a different needle/nozzle combo .25mm .35mm .5mm and a .66mm and that last one I don't reduce most times and the .25mm needs allot to spray correctly the 2 middle size brushes are Eclipse's and they are very forgiving and I have to say are a joy to work with something about the design and acrylic paint.

Check out lure me in custom painted crankbaits he has some real good video's as well not many but good none the less.

Well I can tell you that some airbrushes have a hard time spraying AB specific paint so you may need to upgrade if you were thinking of waterbased acrylics.

I did a search for Spray pen what exactly is it? from the little I saw paint is out of the question seems to be of an ink thing.

I think Paul Adams showed that in one of his video's but I hadn't thought about it for hard wood but why not seems simple enough.

Yep quite often the product may go out of production but patents may still be viable and like Bob said someone may have purchased the rights and just have'nt done anything with it yet.

I have the Talon and a .66mm nozzle/needle and I have not had a problem with anything yet including cheap glitter craft paint for the kids school projects, as Ben said it will shoot up to bird shot!

After quite a bit of frustration I too went with both the 5608 Illustration base for the standard Createx line which is kinda named weird as it is listed as a solvent based reducer/extender and I got the new 4012 high performance reducer for my wicked and Auto air and the difference was night and day so go for it they will make your work more enjoyable. I would say though I don't premix a bottle as it can flash off over time and ruin the batch therfore I mix only what's needed.

Anybody reducing this, I ordered some and when looking through their list I didn't see any reducer just retarder, can I use acrylic reducer such as Createx high performance reducer, or is this stuff that thin that I won't need to?

Some guys will also tweak or loosen the cross bar on the plungers to allow the injectors to move more freely as some times they are racked. Does your setup feel a little tight this may help to get an even flow if you will.

Not sure about that brand but here in the states makelures.com has a product called mold putty.

If you go to their website they have an explaination on maintenence of it. They sure look like Bear's/archer's designs though.

No worries until you have molds made that resemble or actually reproduce patented baits say like a beaver for instance, there have been mold makers who offered this mold and it was the bait maker selling them that will be in hot water not just the mold maker I think they even have the name locked up. Now on the other hand Do-It is in a working relationship with GY for his Senko but they have to mill their name into the mold by the egg sac to differentiate the 2.

Well I'm glad someone else came clean I was beginning to think I was the only one

I think if I remember correctly they are related Bob had his own thing going then I think he merged with Basstackle now he's back on his own.

You don't have any cause you've been a good boy, don't ask me how I know about this.