gone2long

Or if you just read the thread already started under the same title

I concur I have a ton of different colors and types but I did quite well using the transparent base with the opaque's but it is a heck of allot more convenient to have a bottle already made transparent. I've also made some of my own pearls with sample packs of pearl powder that I bought using the AB medium.

I have allot of Createx opaque colors and a pint of transparent base a quart of 5608 illustration base and a pint of airbrush medium which is colorless paint and I've had great results with this setup, that being said I also have a lot of "specialized colors" that I use such as fastback green, Sepia, fluorescent and pearl colors. I guess to put it simply that I have a little of everything but the base colors will do you no wrong getting started.

WIP = Work in progress RTS = Ready to spray 2K = 2 part catalyzed clear coat TUT = Tutorial

Yeah without having one to test it may have acted like ballast to keep the flat side facing down to possibly impart action? Interesting though.

How about 2 separate cups of the same color one with salt and split pouring to achieve the end result?

Sorry not the split rings but the actual eyes built into the bait.

Good deal and thank you sir that's what I was looking for, so with the top coat it kinda chips off? I use Etex Lite but the last batch I did I tried something new and inner coat cleared with future floor shine, haven't sealed them yet but it seems to have made a hard finish to the paint - I don't make many at a time (6) and give days between coats of different products.

I don't sell just paint for myself, does anybody clean the hook hangers after painting and before top coat? It just looks crappy was looking for ideas for cleaning them off without damaging the paint, I was thinking just carefully scraping with an xacto knife, any ideas?

As far as hard baits are concerned I think proper cleaning is more important than anything now I have no experience with other types of material such as PVC or some of the resins used so you may need to with those.

Createx "cures" at 325F the term "setting" is often used to explain drying with a blow dryer/heat gun which facilitates quicker dry times but just air no heat is recommended depending on the paint line you choose, heat setting although works can be a double edged sword if you over do it and that's where "skinning" can/will/may occur. I agree that mixing various brands and types of finishes can/will/may cause adverse reactions between the product lines you may use, I like to use a piece of PVC pipe as a test medium for not only reaction issues but it makes for a great way to test you newest color schemes without using an actual blank.

I agree with the others, you're going heavy and skinning over the base coat of paint when that happens it takes a long time to fully cure or "outgas", sealing with MCU is aggravating that process then when the surface is compromised it easily separates from the bait. Caution should be taken with heat setting your paint as that will also give you a false appearance that the paint is cured when in fact it's skinned over.

I haven't heard anything bad about them their all good.

Yep youtube is a better bet, they are geared to fishing tackle and you will gain more usable knowledge.

Yeah I've seen it done with a homemade tool that looks like a big tuning fork with the netting clamped in between and they just press it up against the lure body and it has enough slack that it wraps around half the bait to get the result needed, so there is no wrapping if you will just a quick hold on the bait and spray. Oh and I forgot I use a knitting loop with the same great results it just takes a little getting used to as it's round without a handle, but works great.

I made the few I have out of Bondo fiberglass resin (Polyester resin) you will need to make sure your original is glued down so it won't float up in the resin because the resin will heat up during the curing process. It has excellent detail and as long as your not pouring 100's of worms in a session you'll be fine. Search youtube for "senko mold" you should get a hit on a guy who shows the process for you to understand the process. I do have a question though, you do know that no matter what you do a 1 piece mold will have one side flat right?

Yeah real easy it will chip right off with you nail or if you lightly bend them it will crack off. Remember your not curing the paint with the pin in so the powder that is on the pin is not really cured.

I bought the Teflon pins for powder painting jigs and heat them in a toaster oven I dip with the pin in then remove before curing the jig, timing well that really lies on how hot your toaster oven gets and what setting you use but as a rule of thumb is around 15-20 minutes for around 25 jigs hanging on rack.

super glue gel.

Things have improved on that front by Lurecraft selling his molds they are getting them out in a timely manner from all reports and yes he makes a great mold.

Interesting I looked it up on Do-Its site and it does not show the extra eye but when I looked it up on LPO it has an eye on the bottom but does not show an insert so me thinks you might have to do a mold modification.

Carolina Mike is in your neck of the woods he does high production.

Harbor freight has clamps called helping hands there like $2-$3 apiece and well worth it, they also have the cleaning station for $8 when I bought mine they were the $20 Iwata units but they often change but again well worth it. The HP-BR has a .3mm needle/nozzle set so you will need to learn paint reduction and I would stay away from craft paint with that setup and would recommend Wicked or auto air, but properly reduced Createx textile paint will work but you'll be trying to learn 2 different things at once that can be a challenge. Your Badger will be good for base coat applications as its a single action brush designed for heavier bodied paints like acrylics and you can lay down some paint, the Revolution is a good detail brush.

I use the same compressor you'll be fine, again as said get a water trap for the compressor and if you can afford it get a pistol grip filter for your brush. it is best if possible to locate your trap some distance from your compressor to allow the air temp to lower as water can bypass the trap if to close at least that's the recommendation for shop compressors and painting cars I've yet to have a problem with mine so I guess the best way is to try it first and if you experience water issues then move it accordingly as your enviroment also plays a role here.

If you have the injector then go for the injection mold, not sure what one you have so can't tell you if laminates are in the cards which is why the injection would be nice. I have one of del's hand pour molds it works fine no problems at all and you can do swirls or laminates with it, guess you could do swirls if you’re an injector master because you will need to pulse the 2 injector's at different rates to achieve this.