gone2long

The triple action handle can give you that result it kinda makes your brush a single action if you adjust the barrel to the setting you want. I have them on my Eclipse's but I'm not sure if they fit the HP-C though.

I use a piece of scrap PVC pipe for a test piece works well I sprayed one side black and left the other white. As to transparent's they are more refined and thinner just as candies are even a thinner base but standard createx is a different animal altogether each color has its own characteristic that will require some adjusting both with reduction and air pressure as some are synthetic and some are What brand of brush are you using that has a .1mm neddle/nozzle?

Interesting wonder if he'll go after high rock molds they have a popper soft plastic frog mold on their site.

Not with a .2mm needle\nozzle with straight createx your not by the time you get the pressure up to spray it will prolly blow the air valve apart the pigment isn't milled or refined enough for that.

No doubt I'm with you on that I think Bob missed the original poster's comment on what mold he wanted to modify.

If you have enough baits/parts/area to make it worth your while spraymax 2 part clear is great stuff but it has a 24 hour pot life from the time of activation.

Most in the know will make a cheap light box to flood the item with light, easy to make and on the cheap do a search on youtube you'll find it there.

Try smoking your mold it helps the lead flow.

Good to hear it's working for you mine works great too but it is now the wife's finger nail brush, hey you gotta give concessions somewhere

excellent advice above I will only add that I use the 4012 high performance reducer with my wicked and auto air, try to stay away reducing with water I know some will say they use it with no problems but if you use a proprietary reducer or equivalent you won't be stretching the paints film setting/strength properties like water can/will do, it's a bit pricey but you sound like you're doing this as a hobby so it will go along way. I Have and still do use future floor shine as well as the 5608 illustration base which is a solvent based reducer with the standard createx line and your right on pigment size is different from color to color in the same paint line so there is no one set fits all.

If you read on I think your going to find that a .2mm needle/nozzle is going to give you fits with standard createx I use wicked and auto air and use my .35 and .38 with great results and yes you will need to up the PSI with the pearlized and metallic paints as the particulate size is much larger. You will still be able to pull some fine lines as mentioned if you remove the crown cap but you better have a backup set just in case you bend you needle tip. The Revolution I believe is a .3 and works for Dakota.

That is correct it does have a pot life just have as many baits, reels and what ever else isn't nailed down ready and clear away

X2 POP is not your first choice RTV is the route you want to go.

Sounds like condensation are you working in a cold shop if so you need to jack the heat up if not you got me the only time my breath condenses is when its cold out and there's plenty of that going round about now.

Do-It has a lizard mold with a ring tail but not the body.

Lureworks has a new waterbased paint for soft plastics but I think you still need to dip the bait afterwards, they also still have the original paint that is quite toxic to breath but I'm told it does a great job and I think it is more permanent than the waterbased without dipping but I have no personal use with it.

I've never dipped that particular bait but give it a good 20 count and that should do it and hanging is prolly the best method.

Yeah no worries about melting water won't go above 212F

Is this it? This was posted in the gallery not sure if it is a repaint or a virgin blank? http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/gallery/category_8/gallery_24925_8_135164.jpg

Reduce your cook times between cycles even adding cycles as needed will help, remember your plastic is heating from the inside out. Don't stir with wood it will add bubbles to the mix.

Jacobsbaits.com

Do a search on the web for the Biffle head and how they like it, for the most part their the same.

What ya got cooking Paul a new video I hope I'll keep my eye out on youtube!

Hey Paul are you talking about the diameter of the sprue hole for the injector to fit in or the hole in the injector tip? If it's the sprue then 5/8 seems to be the agreed upon size, if it's the hole in the nozzle tip if no one posts it up I'll go out to my shop and get the size.