Oh and rayburn I thought it might be an add-on under the tools button there is an add-on button when you open it up it show a list of add-ons and when I did a search it did show many types of spell checkers but I didn't see a standard type of chaeker.
That's weird I opened up the same screen you posted and my selections are the same, I just opened a thread to test and spelled words wrong all it does is underline in red, do I have to hit send before it will go into spell check mode?
Yep same here I'm currently using a Paasche inline seperator on my brushes hose but when the money allows I'm going to get the Iwata unit that mounts to the brush. Anyone have any experience with that type?
I loaded firefox and it works with that I've been having problems with ie it keeps putting up a dialog box that states program not working properly guess I keep trying while I use firefox.
A water separator is a must either inline or on the brush itself. A small set of cleaning brushes is also essential, a cleaning station would be nice and if it doesn't have a brush holder then you need to get one as well, with the exception of the water separator you can get the rest at harbor freight on the cheap.
Many options plain old distilled water would be the first but people use Future floor shine or actual additives for such purpose. for example I use 5601 transparent base often when using opaques to well make them more transparent. I use a home brew I found on the net it has ammonia free glass cleaner, water, alcohol and glycerin and it works well.
12oz distilled water
4oz denatured alcohol
4oz ammonia free glass cleaner
10 drops of glycerin
How much are the 2 you suggested where your at I looked at Chicago airbrush supply and they list at $181.00 and $275.00 US respectfully that's pretty steep for someone who's not sure that this hobby is for him. You can easily get a good brush for under $100.00.
Yep read a lot of good reviews about them but the price point is a little too high for someone just starting out and not sure if its for them. I've learned pretty quickly that everyone still doing this has 2 brushes the one they started out with and the one they now use. This is not to suggest they don't still use the cheap one but it now may be strictly set up for say primer or harder to spray pearls, metallics and the like, the idea here was to suggest a cheaper but quality brush to start that way if they put it down because it's not for them then they're not stuck holding a pricey shelf ornament
Very true but unfortunately you see a lot of "good deals" on packages with knockoff's or the wrong tool for the job and people buy them and are left with a piece of junk and become unsure of what the next move is, any good working brush is magical in the right hands but a non functioning piece of doo doo will always cause grief and sometimes cause people to give up before they even start.
Zorn machines are for high production, any of the mold makers machines are smaller scale, your friend needs to do a lot of research as high production molds range in the tens of thousands of dollars themselves for a few. He should consider getting some contracts first as anything custom has a custom price
Yeah I'm a fan of the small cup I have the eclipse BS which has the small cup much easier than the bigger cup on the CS. I also got the needle/tip upgrade.
Then I suggest you print one of the steep discount coupons from Michael's, AC Moore or Hobby Lobby and find a quality brush there. Here's my take on it, I bought the NEO which by the way is made for Iwata by their design I found it to be a very good brush for small quantities of baits it has 3 options that are with it you can literally use it without the cup for a few drops of paint or it also comes with 2 different size cups that screw on.
It is a gravity fed brush so you can run it with less PSI with properly thinned paint which helps with tip dry and it comes with a needle/tip size of .35 mm and can be swapped out with a .5 mm and the plus is when you decide to move up to the next level that little NEO is still a good go to brush where as a knockoff will sit on the shelf. I stepped up to the Eclipse and wow what a difference more control and handles the thicker paints with less fiddling around reducing. Iwata is a very well made brush but there are others as well such as Paasche or Badger.
I have a Paasche Talon TG3 set and it's very versatile but it has a big honking permanent cup on it and I just don't need all that paint at any one time they all have pro's and con's the more you spend on the brush the better you'll take to the craft I've read a million threads about cheaper knockoff brushes and almost no one will tell you that they still stand behind their knockoff's after getting a real brush.
Someone posted how they use a silicone skirt band with the weed guard inserted into it then placed flush in the pin slot at the head, said the band would last quite some time before changing.
Barry What PSI are you running your 150 on? Siphon fed brushes typically require a higher PSI due to the fact that it needs to push the paint up and out of the bottle like around 45 PSI depending on the nozzle/tip you use, at those pressures tip dry is more prevalent. I don't think a siphon fed brush would be my first choice as you really don't require that much paint to do fishing lures but it's doable. Createx is an art unto itself you need to understand paint reduction even within the same line it will change from color to color due to pigment size once you get your reducing down you should be good to go just take lots of notes when doing so.
I started not too long ago and bought an Iwata NEO for like $50 nice little starter brush but now have an Iwata eclipse and it's a great brush @ $140 I still use the NEO it has its place so it was not a waste of money and will not just sit on a shelf. Spend as much as possible on the brush it makes all the difference in the world to getting started and not fighting with cheap knockoff's. If possible I suggest your paint to be Spectra-tex for learning it's one of the closest paints that are AB ready.
Createx is good paint but you have to learn paint reducing when it comes to it and learning one thing at a time is the best way to keep you interested and not get frustrated. I use a 3HP pancake compressor if you have space\conditions that permit that that's the route I would go they are relatively quiet and have a lot of reserve air. Do a lot of research on you tube there is a lot of good info on getting started and have fun at it. Dakotalakestackle is a good you tube channel to follow he has some really good video's on how to and shows a lot of tricks.
I'm still not sure why your not letting them know before making all these attempts at corrective homebrew measures it's seems clear your not the only one having this issue and while the irons hot get on them about it and see where they take it, good luck would like to see this resolved before hundreds of these things are sold. Pretty clear sand casting has its flaws.
Just curious do you have hookup issues with those willow blades on the hook? I'm in PA as well and although we do have some nice sized fish I would think that that setup would be a hindrance in these here parts, nice work by the way good looking work.