gone2long

I have Lurecraft's trick worm and thought that was almost exact, anybody else use LC's trick worm?

I believe bear still lets you split your 5 gallons in 2 1/2 gallons & mix compounds say 2 1/2 medium 2 1/2 hard.

I believe bear still lets you split your 5 gallons in 2 1/2 gallons & mix compounds say 2 1/2 medium 2 1/2 hard.

Lurecraft has them as do many other suppliers, as for mounting most put them on then dip in clear plastic. I think most will work since your sealing them after you apply them.

If its anything like an induction hot plate it will need to be a ferrous metal, saw a show on it the other day a magnet must stick to it.

Not a bad idea at all I used a curling iron element to achieve the same thing. What I now want to look into is an induction coil.

I have a super secret source

I've never personally tried this but I saw a video of someone who would over pour then quickly scrape the mold with a straight edge such as a ruler. But as stated it is doable after practice getting the thin stream is the ticket and I also use both hands as stated I use one to pour and the other is under the cup for support.

That's a possibilty that the fine flake is almost acting as a colorant in of itself try the larger flake it should look considerably different..

yeah I've also added a few drops of red to give my crawfish bait a little bit of a red hue.

I use Bear's changeable motoroil right out of the bottle and it is exactly the way you described.

Well you've listed two ways but as far as ease & safety well injection is just that, but you will need to make that investment.

I personally have not made one yet but I think I read lexan will fail, believe it or not you can use a piece of aluminum flashing and dull the metal with vinegar that will prevent an arc in the micro. They use JB Weld to secure it in the cup, also some have made a split cup but transfer pre-heated plastic to it then pour forgoing the cup in the micro all together.

Yep all reports are that those plastic molds and injector are crap and dangerous, do a search I'm sure you'll find plenty on them.

Add Bob's, K-Molds, Jacobsbaits and lurecraft although they sell others CNC molds and injectors.

Just an update the price has been posted on Bear's site and looks good.

Not to go too far off topic but you may want to have some softener on hand as the downside to salt is a tougher bait.

Well if you are standing by the above statement then you are looking at Lurecraft to fill your needs, they make many diff types and sizes of crayfish molds and most are around $10 and are well made silicone molds, but as stated you will need a bit of practice as many of the appendages are small and require a very thin stream to pour without alot of flashing but you'll get the hang of it after a while.

I second that, put a small nut in each of your bottles, color will separate quite extensively from sitting and takes a bit of shaking to re-distribute.

It is easy, just make sure your adhesive is not heat sensitive i.e. will melt with the heat applied, on my 1st try 4 years ago working with resin the heat from curing caused 1 of the mounted baits to let go and floated to the top of the resin

It will work but keep it in small batches, when you cook virgin plastisol you cook out some of the heat stabilizer so repeated cooking cooks even more off but you should be alright. Some guys like to add just a little virgin plastic in with the remelts. Oh yeah and cut your remelts up in small pieces it help the process along.

Not true, the problem is operator error, i.e. putting the cup on a cooler or colder surface, practice safety and no problems. Thermal shock is always operator error, place on wood, pot holder or other than cold location and all is good.

All good advise, just remember when you heat the plastic it will go from milk consistency to thick glue like consistency then to a syrup that is when it is ready, if you can afford it you should get an infrared thermometer it will help a great deal with heating the plastic. I would purchase colors that are ready right out of the bottle i.e. watermelon, green pumpkin, junebug, black and the like, learning to mix colors can use up quite a bit of plastic during the learning curve, Keep it simple in the beginning and you won't be disappointed then prepare to open your wallet cause once you catch the bug its all over .. Also when you buy your pyrex cup root through the cups as they are not made equal, some will have a narrower spout and thats what you want to start out with it will help in pouring a narrow stream and start out with 4ozs instead of 8, a half full cup is much easier to pour from than a full one.

Here ya go this may be of interest: http://www.ozarktack...m/regrinds.html Just remember to calculate shipping costs Almost forgot you may want to get yourself some heat stablizer for the reheat.

Ah glad to see another anal thread from the masters in the works!