gone2long

Has anyone tried to mix RIT laundry dye with worm oil to make colorants? Not the liquid stuff but the powder version. I figure it would hold up to repeated dunks in the water since its made for laundry that gets washed often. Chris

Oh and I forgot to mention I make my mold forms from LEGO's works great and very adjustable.

Here's what I use: http://images.orgill.com/200x200/1421098.jpg Bondo makes many different types of fillers but fiberglass resin is not a filler but more like an adhesivefiller used in conjunction with fiberglass matte, I personally didn't know they were using it for automotive uses until I read it on this site. I'm not sure if anybody is using the Bondo body filler, I would think its to thick but I may be wrong I haven't had any contact with that stuff since the early 80's. And to clear things up the resin is not fiberglass but polyester, the reason its called fiberglass resin is because its used in conjunction with fiberglass matte. RTV:POP: FIBERGLASS RESIN: [/url] Hope this clears things up for ya. Ya know I only paid $54.00 for this 6" fluke mold: http://www.del-mart.com/shop/files/thumbnails/t_16461.jpg I use the resin straight out of the can mixed with only the hardener. The paper clip protrudes from what ever end is opposite the pour end, and yes it has to protrude in order for air to escape just sand the end of your mold down until the aiway opens up. Make a pour hole by rolling up a wad of clay, if you look at a pic of a aluminum 2 piece mold you'l get the idea. Chris

O.K. here's one man answer: Bondo is a trade name for fiberglass resin it is used in the automotive industry as well as the boating industry it is the goto material when I make 2 piece molds as it turns rock hard when cured but can be machined easily. De-molding is also easy provided you are using a plastic wormbait as your positive. Don't forget you will need registration pins on a 2 piece mold. RTV is nice to work with but I only use it for 1 sided baits i.e. chunks, craws it releases well and is flexible but is pricey. As to a pour hole if you look at a real aluminum 2 piece mold it is approx 1/2 " in diameter and around as deep, again be careful what you use if using resin or it will never de-mold (Use release agent) As to a vent what I do is straiten out a paper clip (larger type) and use it as a skewer to put the bait together, if you leave it protrude from the bottom of the bait it will act as your vent, it also works well when using different parts of baits to make a new creation. Also consisder POP (plaster of paris) this is a very cheap but yet productive way to make 1 & 2 piece molds you can find more on that if you search POP. Just a suggestion being your costs are high, only mix batches of 4 oz at a time when first learning as you will foul up now and again, most of the guys here use 4 ozs as a base for their color recipes which again you will find on the forum. Good luck! Chris

I use an exacto knife with a chisel blade, its about 1/2" wide and flat I also use a mounted magnifier with light, works great. Of course the more practice the less flashing but I'm sure you know that one already.

I use a cookie sheet I don't use water because if your bait is not the way it's supposed to be when it hits the water it seems to lock its shape in i.e. unwanted bends. I do not use anything that is absorbent such as a box lid or wood to prevent the scent from leaching out of the bait.

You know you could throw this point back and forth all day, what in the world is chartreuse in nature or how about bubble gum? Now it's coffee scent heck the guys I know down on the river swear by "everything bagels":oooh: Chris

Here Bob since you

Thanks for sharing that Dave. Chris

Well I guess that will show me, I didn't even know there was such a thing as a bead bait.

Thinking outside the box I bought a string of glass beads and inserted them into a stick mold, not quite filled enough but in theory it works. What do you guys think of the idea? Chris

Blake, the best way to get started is to purchase a starter kit, they are relatively cheap and provide enough materials to get you started. For instance most kits offer 3 colorants to choose from as well as a mold. Lurecraft has a kit with 2 pints of plastic soft and medium 3 colors they choose and an RTV multi mold with 5 diff baits and Del's has more choice of additives and a CNC 2 piece aluminum mold. Do a little research and see what fits your plans. Also make sure you view both the how to video's and the do's and don'ts section here on the board the guys here put up some very helpful info there. Good luck let us know how you make out! Chris Fishing Lure Making Products, Soft Plastics, Lead Molds, Hooks and more! - LureCraft Del-Mart Molds

Make sure they are not water based:flame:

Do a search, I think the title was "Ambitious pour" he made a double tail grub that looked like it required a gallon of plastic! It looked to be a foot long and he claimed that it was for halibut.

Sure but its all the same I don't think you'll find it cheaper to make a difference, the key is the shipping cost! And when I make resin molds sure the plastic will kinda melt, but the mold will already be set with the features.

96dak is right I like fiberglass resin molds and in my early days learning I used air dried clay and man that was a bear to get out had to use a dremmel and dental tools, stick with RTV for solid positives you can always make a resin mold from the first few you pour from the RTV plus its nice to be able to make an under cut in your molds you could not do that with resin and solid positives. Good luck and let us know what you decide. Chris

I would think if you cook your plastic in advance you would be burning off some of the heat stabilizer that

Avoid temperature extremes and you should be fine for years, there was a thread on here about this just remember the longer it sits the more separation the more mixing you'll need to do, like when you think it's mixed enough start over and mix again it tends to separate and needs aggressive mixing.

Glad to hear you got it going, Bob if you do anything else I highly recommend reading the do's & don'ts in the how to section allot of these guys have posted a wealth of information regarding safety and some trick stuff for newbie's and hey why not learn from others mistakes and save some plastic

Hey Bob I did the same thing when I started pouring , you need to go 3 to 4 mins in the micro then stir it should be thick almost like caulk by then and then go in 30 sec increments until it has the consistency of syrup you will have an open time of around 1 min. Good luck, have fun and let us know how you make out.

Welcome to the madness:) I don't know about the silicone but I haven't read of anyone using it they use RTV, I use Bondo fiberglass resin. As for re-melts yes you can easily do that in your microwave in a Pyrex cup. I do encourage you to read the sticky on do's and don'ts some great advice and allot of safety info there. Good luck and look forward to your future posts.

I think your right, I joined just to find out but I don't see anything? Artificial All The Way you sure it was Bob's and not Del's or Bear's?

Is this what your looking for? Login : Bobstackleshack.com, Custom CNC Molds Chris

Was wondering has anybody on the board tried the option from Ozark tackle they sell what sounds like ground up sprue, I say ground up as it sounds like they make it uniform in size for a better re-melt. Sounds like a good deal figure you add a capful of heat stabilizer and pour away. Would like to get some feed back if there is any. Chris

Same here much easier and no real drawbacks to leaving in the 5 gal bucket.