gone2long

Kev, I get my wacky o-rings here not sure if they have what your looking for but give them a try. Chris

Poured my first volume run with the new pot and was very happy for the first attempt my question is I floured my salt in a blender until it well was like flour but I read on another post here not to lower your paddle to close to the bottom of the pot or the salt acts like sand paper so has anybody tried putting a silicone strip on the bottom of their paddle to act like a squeegee: http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q80/mrbilky/DSCF0157.jpg Chris

Thank you Jerry I thought the fumes might be getting to me:)

Thanks for the input guys, ya know I didn't even notice that until you guys brought it up and I'm going to err on the side of caution and replace the partical board base with solid lumber. My concern is in humid weather it may cause premature failure and thats not a risk I would like to take with a full pot of 350 degree plastic. Thanks again and keep the ideas coming! Chris

Well the stars aligned for me today and I was able to complete phase 1, phase 2 will be a ventilation hood: http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q80/mrbilky/DSCF0156.jpg http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q80/mrbilky/DSCF0155.jpg http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q80/mrbilky/DSCF0154.jpg Would appreciate a critiquing good or bad:worship:

I use an x-acto knife and in one motion roll the bait while cutting. Chris

About a week ago on the bottom line where new posts are there was a link to mark all forums read but it disappeared then yesterday it was back and now it

Prolly could guess the answer to this but would like to hear from some folks on this. I have a 5 gallon bucket of LC 502 and was wondering are most of you splitting it down to 1 gallon bottles after a thorough mixing or are you putting a tap in the 5 gallon bucket? I'm not quite ready to pour yet but want to get all my ducks in a line before hand. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Chris

Sure did thanks guys:yay: Chris

I would think it would be soft like when you use a dremmel but for sure it would make one heck of a dust storm:eek: Chris

When I Googled it the pics were 3-D and in the positive but very intricate, from the way I read it it's a CNC machine for wood and softer materials. Chris

Yep says it will do acrylic so resin no problem and from what I read it has an optional 3-D scanner so to me it sounds like you could scan a bait and presto! Chris

I'm ready to put together a pot and was wondering do you guys use teflon tape on the threads when you assemble the valve or some other type of sealer. Thanks for any assistance you can provide. Chris

Hey guys I was just wondering if anybody has tried to create proto type baits with a Sears compucarve. I don't have one and their kinda pricey but from what I'm reading its like a CNC machine for wood. I would think that even if someone else owned one you could install the software on your own computer then just pay a small fee to produce it unless you already have a friend that has one:yeah: Chris

I am just getting started as well. Before I knew about this site I bought the lurecraft starter kit and was very happy with the results. They provide a pint of 502 and a pint of 536 so you get an idea of strengths. I threw their pour pans away, also for the amount you will be pouring with this kit get a pyrex measuring cup and do it in the microwave very fast and easy to do. Again as everone states here make sure you shake the daylights out of your bottle before pouring, with the kit it will be easy to indentify when your done because they ship the bottles on their side so you can see the settled material.

I can attest to that I bought glitter from Michael's and it melted and clumped up in my plastic making for problems at pour time. Chris

I'm new here but have read in many posts that salt will not be encapsulated but will make your bait porous. If you search out the remelt thread you may get a better idea. Chris

Just wondering if anybody has tried to make a mold from clay slip. Sounds like if do-able you could go to a local pottery place and have it fired, seems that would make a nice solid non-stick mold. Sorry this might belong in tools:o Chris

Not sure it may have but I put the iron idea to rest and have rigged the valve with a blow torch tip, works much better and heat-up time was reduced greatly. My pics are on the small side but you should be able to make out the torch on the right hand side. Well I ordered some molds from Delmart so next time I post it will be with the results.

O.K. first keep in mind I'm no engineer so it was to my surprise when I hooked up the curling iron elements to the valve and wrapped them with solid copper wire that I sentenced myself to capitol punishment ( I got electrocuted, I think I inadvertently made a step up transformer:lolhuh: ) anyhow here is the latest incarnation, I did a cold start this morning and clearly can achieve 250F and higher to keep the flow going. Will post as soon as possible with results. Chris

Thanks Rip that was the one I read about here just couldn't find it:yay: Chris

How big do you want I just bought a set of 4 measuring cups that are Stanless from 1/4 to 1 cup for $6 at the ACME. You might try Craigslist as well. Chris

Any suggestions on a high heat addhesive? I read somewhere but cannot find now any shoutout would be appreciated. Chris

I use this claims to be a bit harder than plaster. Instead of inbedment I affix the postive to the bottom of the mold container and I pour over the positive I've gotten great results almost smooth as glass, I suppose because the water is heavier and air bubbles rise. And it is also available at Michael's. Activa's Art Plaster Chris

Not familiar with pottery so the question I have do they make a fluid version of the material they use, would be nice to pour and bake in the oven since pottery turns glass like and glazed it would be non stick? But I've tried and as stated the POP turns crumbly and powdery dry. Chris