gone2long

HaHa that's funny it's been going on for many moons just don't think its a priority, but for the vetrans we know what ya meant!

The real issue you have is in the detail if its just a large cavity without detail and appendages like stick baits and the like then most often it can be hand poured but you will find yourself very frustrated if you put claws, legs and the like into it.

Well to be clear a promise made should be promise kept too many times the business model that is being followed is wrong in many ways but I agree to the extent that they make a good product but that can be said of all mold makers out there so not sure if that is the most important aspect of the issue.

Bear has one.

*D*E*L*M*A*R*T* all over again its a crap shoot for sure and I assure you that someone has informed him of this thread!

Just lighten it up you'll never know once you add enough colorant to make black stop and add the flake the trick is just adding enough for a black then the flake will have a chance to be seen though the colorant.

Just went through my inventory the pic above is from mold # 5x749

HaHa I would probably use that term loosely "their B-Ver mold" is clearly an RI knock off sweet beaver, I actually thought they sent their lawyers to hand them a cease and desist letter a ways back guess they got around it somehow as I know they are very protective of their intellectual property guess that protection expired?

Too many variables to know, wood density, hook hardware location, lip and line tie or through wire weight but as a rule most baits in that size class require some weight consideration to obtain the swim profile your looking for.

It's dark now where I'm at no lights in my shed I'll pull it out in the morning and post if someone doesn't beat me to it.

Lurecraft has one like this:

Yep sounds like your causing the entire batch to convert at once a slower approach will allow the plastic to transition at a controlled pace. You can only speed things up so much patience is a virtue.

HaHa I think you did just fine letting it be known that you disapprove But I do agree that idea is not the best one out there.

Thats all I do alcohol and tape the bill then base coat usally white then Bob Smith epoxy when paint is done.

I personally would not get plain old opaque red, blue green yellow and such I would get more natural colors most with a hint or more of reflective value I have a green metallic that is spot on for bass and pan fish I would get Sepia not brown it is an earth tone of brown but more natural and can be layered up to obtain a darker hue if needed. Base coat white and top coat transparent black is a must and I would get at least 4oz bottles of those as you will use them on almost every bait. Flo red and orange is a good choice for highliights of gills, throats, vent and fins. As stated though you will wind up buying colors as if they were candy after you get started.

Hum I would think if you already have an air brush might be cheaper to just buy the CoLure Coat soft plastic paint from spikit and spray away.

I think you have the answer in your question, as a whole it's better to reduce at time of use as most will flash off over time or create adverse affects with the paint even in a tightly sealed bottle.

Hanging is a good method or just clean the sprue and or flashing off and let sit overnight no real science to it.

If you mean loctite brand super glue gel then yes, it will occasionally leave a white residue after setup but its not a deal breaker for sure. As far as the vinyl you should always basecoat with white to get better results.

you shouldn't need to do anything special just pour the tail then the body or vice versa the plastic is not that fluid that you can't pour free hand.

Micro balloons, often glass spheres most sell them under various descriptions can be dangerous if not used with caution.

Or if you have single cavity molds or multi cavity molds with individual sprue's you can pour your outer color then "core shot" the inner color with the injector.

Yep production molds only new name as well.

I'm not sure about aluminum powder isn't that explosive?

I'm not sure if this will help but Salty's has pike and surf kits of very nice quality just not sure he's got what your looking for? Other than that I have seen some nice sized wood blanks on ebay from a guy I think is in Poland they looked pretty nice.