gone2long
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Everything posted by gone2long
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I think we are in the soft plastics forum I think the solvent based paint would be the way to go but I would contact spike it first to confirm it will play nice with the alumilite flex, as for a clear coat that one will be interesting to hear how you make out try contacting alumilite and see if they have a suggestion other than that you could try dipping into plastisol but it may not adhere properly?
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I used a piece of PVC tube for testing as it is already white and will give you plenty of examples to work from.
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Get as much brush as you can afford Iwata revolution is a good start but I'm partial to the Iwata HP-CS or BS. don't go cheap on paint, craft paint is doable but there is a bit of a leaning curve. Read up on brush cleaning as this is probably the #1 reason people run into trouble when learning, a dirty brush is the root of all evil.
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Yeah and to add I believe I read that they were dropping his molds can't remember where I read that but beware I would make sure its in stock or roll the dice.
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Has anyone tried cutting the stencil before vacuum then tape over the cutout's and the form? Think it would be a bit easier to cut repeated patterns for both sides this way as you could place the stencil material over say a photocopy of the bait you are painting and just cut out over the picture.
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Man that is one big bait did you ever weigh that beast? Those last pics didn't give that away!
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By the looks of that last pic I would say your injecting air into the mold meaning your sucking air into the injector do you purge your injector prior to shooting? And as others have stated stay away from the water that's never a good combination.
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Be advised this is after you hit the golden stage when the plastic has gone through its conversion so you need to bring it up before you can shoot it lower.
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Bear sells the sprue extenders but try topping off first thats ussally all it takes, a warm mold helps too.
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Loaded question but all things being equal yes you did good but as stated there are many players and well with the exception of Delmart they all have their good points I used to think that I could narrow it down to just one supplier but forget about it theres just too many options out there just have fun with it, read up on here and you should find your way.
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Most if not all manufacturers are using 5/8 as a standard, some jacob's molds might be out there that are not.
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You may be right thats sounds familiar.
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It' s been quite some time since I saw it but there was a video of a curing system that worked like a conveyor I would think with a little elbow grease and some knowhow one could be made.
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I started with the Neo it worked well a little more finicky than my HP-BS's to be honest though spend a little more and get the Revolution you won't be disapointed and it's not really much more than the Neo. And the Neo is made for Iwata not made by them so not sure about quality control issues.
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Well most will tell you that a siphon fed brush is not the best choice for detail work as the operating pressure is much higher on a siphon fed so I would stay away from one. As stated spend a little more now or frustrate yourself for a few months and then pull the trigger on the brush that you should have bought in the first place
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Yep saw that a few years ago finally came to conclusion good for them, what a jerk but I heard the locals up in the 1000 islands say the same thing he did when I was on 1 of my annual trips up there.
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Yes Sir it's an open source website for people with 3D printing capabilities I also bought a 3D printed GoPro mount for my G4 3 axis gimbal good stuff for light duty applications.
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I put trigger stix on mine seems to give me more subtle control, got them from TonyD on shapeway's: http://s133.photobucket.com/user/mrbilky/media/20140219_110341.jpg.html
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Iwata Revolution if your on the cheap and an HP-CS or BS if your not doing major production, I use the BS most of the time I like the low profile cup and makes for easy clean up.
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Roto molding is probably the answer, can it be done with a 2 piece injection mold like we use that is the question.
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consider a rotary cutter kinda pricey but works great.
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Try the airbrush forum TABF you'll get top notch info there.
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The End Of An Era...uncle Josh Pork Products
gone2long replied to mark poulson's topic in Wire Baits
Crazy aint it, was a time not too long ago when that raw product couldn't be given away now it's called pork rind and sold as a snack -
Do-It Gary Yamamoto Senko Mold. Am I The Only One Bothered By This?
gone2long replied to RSullivan's topic in Soft Plastics
Ah yes the proprietary formula think that's a non starter as everyone has proprietary formula and if it was unique it would have been reproduced already, as far as mix and settling everyone has been there done that. -
Do-It Gary Yamamoto Senko Mold. Am I The Only One Bothered By This?
gone2long replied to RSullivan's topic in Soft Plastics
This is a general statement and not meant to inflame anyone but I think the whole issue is dumb, as stated there are exact to near exact molds that have been out there for many years now if you think that a difference of such a small scale between diameters or egg sack being at a different position and not the plastic formula and salt ratio then you need to keep buying GY senko's and filling his pockets. I will never buy a mold from anyone if branding is part of the final product.
