george12182

Do a google search for micro beads. I couldn't find them at joann's or michael's. Jo ann carries them online thouhg.

Another skirt similar, is the hole-in-one skirt. I think it looks better than the ez skirts. Bassdozer sells them on his ebay store. He also sells the easy skirt. I know this isn't the answer you are looking for. I've searched this topic extensively and their is know way to easily do this that I'm aware of. I've heard trying to do this with the umbrella collars is difficult and inconsitent.

Got a pic? So it's not like the olympic blades?

7-10 min working time sounds about right never actually timed it. I usually wait 60 to 90 minutes for it to harden then then pour the second half and wait another 60 to 90 to split the halfs then bake. I'm no expert though, only made 4 molds so far.

Getting the spike it dip dye and mixing the different colors might work

HeadBanger Those seem to be the ticket. I ordered a pair off of ebay for $20 w shipping. They are ironclad heatworx reinforced gloves. They are supposed to withstand temps of up to 450 degrees. I'll let everyone know my opinion of them once I test them out.

If you are using a fluid bed there really isn't any need to fluff the paint. I would imagine that the jig isn't hot enough and it's picking up too much paint. How are you heating the jig? I use a heat gun and after I dip in the fluid bed then I move it back to the heat gun to even it out. I'm not really an expert though, I just started powder painting a few months ago. Also I would try moving this post to the wire baits section. This is where all the powder painting experts are. Also pm cadman and ask for his powder painting tutorial. There's alot of good info there.

Here's a tutorial I stumbled upon a while ago on exactly what your trying to do. I am thinking about trying this with a stonecat. If you try it please post how it works out for you as I am curious. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/homebrew-tools/16704-3d-reference-sucker.html

I find the easiest way is to tie with wire is to first put the rubber collar on the skirt tabs like you would normally. Now slide the skirt on, but don't put the rubber collar all the way on the coller holder of the jig/spinnerbati. This will keep the strands togeter to tie the wire. Now slide the collar off the hook. There are other threads that cover this topic in greater detail, and go into thread vs wire, wire guage, etc.

Nope. It's free. There's a premium membership that offers some more benefits, not sure exactly what they are off the top of my head though. It's listed here somewhere. Welcome to the site. Just a word of warning, it can get very addicting. All my friends already think I'm crazy.

I've been reading some of the posts on cutting tube tails using the rotary cutters and the kind you have to hit with a mallet and I stumbled upon these. Anyone try them? I'm not sure of the distance between the blades though? Amazon.com: EASY SHRED SCISSORS: Home & Garden These might also be interesting on those rotary cutters I've been hearing about. Expensive though. Amazon.com: Fiskars Portable Rotary Trimmer 28mm Replacement Blade, Wave: Home & Garden

Not what I was looking for but for that price I'm probably gonna order some. Have you tried them? How's the quality? Here are the one's I'm looking for. They look 10 times better than anything else I've seen.

What type of gloves do you guys where when pouring? Will any leather work glove do? It seems like most of them don't provide alot of dexterity. Is their any thin gloves that still provide protection?

Does anyone know if you can still get the skirts like I've seen in posts from get bit lures. From what I've read here, it looks like he's no longer in business. I know you can get the ones from lure craft and yamamoto but those just look alot better and different.

After reading in another post where someone put a toothpick down the tip of the bait so it leaves a mark where to drill the pour hole in a two piece mold, I came up with a simple solution so you don't have to do any drilling. Insert the toothpick in the top of the bait in the center. Then cut a small piece of the tail of a senko off. Stick this on the toothpick and lay it touching the mold. When you remove the bait, you have a perfect pour hole. Tried this on my first 2 piece mold and it worked perfect. Just thought I'd share.

Thanks guys. There ended up being enough of a burr on where my guides broke off that I can still get it lined up pretty good.

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere, but I couldn't find anything on it. Are you suppose to preheat your plaster molds before pouring? If so how long, what temp?

What about clear glitter powder paint.

I am a little confused on using the marbles for mold guides. After the first half of the mold dries with the marbles in, do you remove them so that the pop or putty flows into the empty marble holes or do you leave them in when you pour the second half and then glue them in one half after you seperate the two pieces. Also, I have an issue with the first two piece mold I poured. I got my master set in the first half and forgot about my mold guides. So I ran around looking for the first thing I could find. So I cut two small pieces off of a senko and stuck them in. I then removed the senko pieces after the first half dried. Anyway when I seperated the mold, the putty that was in the senko holes snapped flush with the first half. So I have no guides but can see exactly where they are suppose to be. Is there anyway I can still add guides after both halfs are dried and seperated?

152nd st, I bought a pack of Jim's frog in each of two sizes but haven't had a chance to use them. If' they run straight like you said, then I guess this wouldn't even be an issue. I'm eventually gonna buy this mold once I get more into hand pouring. It's probably not gonna be for a while though. I joined this site two months ago and have so many baits I'm working on and already spent an insane amount of money on stuff. I've been mostly working on "wire baits" so far. Anyway, I'm probably just gonna buy some of the stuff off of your guy's websites for this year. Those frog's from bob's molds look awesome. The only thing I don't care for is the size. The smaller one is kind of small and the bigger one is kind of big. A size in between would be perfect.

I just started pouring plastics yesterday, so I really don't have the skill to try this anytime soon. I'm just kind of curious how you guys think it would work. It seems some of the problems with buzz frogs is that if you don't have them rigged up perfectly they tend to roll during the retrieve. After reading some of the posts on the divided cups used to do swirls I thought of something that might help with keeping the frogs running straight. In the section of the divided cup that pours the bottom you would have heavily salted plastic, and in the top half of the cup you would have high floating plastic. I would think that salted sided would always want to run down, keeping it from wanting to roll over. What do you guys think?

I finally made the jump into trying to pour some soft plastics. So I attempted to make my first mold today. After reading through some of the mold/making posts here, I went with the bondo/resin route since I didn't want to wait for the pop or water putty to cure. Here's what I did. I glued the worms I was copying to the bottom of a pyrex dish, then added the bondo mix. The only problem I have was that some of the bondo seeped under the edges of the worm. So my mold had a little bit of bondo that I had to file away from the top of the cavity. Does anyone else have an issue with this. Is there a solution? Do I just try to do a better job of gluing the stuff down. Or is there something I can use to seal the edges of the worm before I pour the resin over it?

I had a problem as well. I think it may be an issue with paypal and not with them though. Not quite sure. I can't quite remember the entire problem. It had something to do with not letting me select one my credit cards I had linked to my account when I went to check out. I eventually got paypal set up to use my bank account instead of my debit card and this solved the problem. Sorry I was a little fuzzy on the exact details.

Well I tried two different craft stores and no luck on the beads so I had to order them online. Now I gotta wait 7 to 10 days to do some experimenting. If anyone's interested the beads are called polystyrene beads. They're what they use in bean bags.

Hawn, Not quite sure I agree with you on the air resistance. Sure it's going to have some affect but I don't think it's going to be enough to signifantly affect the castability as much as the weight will. This will probably have to be a trial and error test though. Not quite sure how you'd figure the math out on that. Also, if you use the jig's inside of tubes the air resistance would be a non issue. George