I emailed solarez earlier today and got the following response: he pretty much echoes what you suggested.
"There might be a couple of things going on. The gloss resin has a surfacing agent in it (wax) that needs to rise to the surface before curing. If you brush on the resin, give it a couple of minutes for the brush strokes to disappear. The amount of time for the brush strokes to disappear is usually enough time for the wax to rise to the surface. If you are still getting streaks, I wonder how thick a coating are you doing? Is it thick enough to allow the brush strokes to "gloss" over?.
If not, you may want to modify resins. Our urethane "Fly-Tie" resins are of MUCH higher molecular weight and do not require a "surfacing agent", although they are more costly.
If the polyester can work for you, it is a great product. you might try to bring up the temperature a bit so that the resin can flow better and brush strokes can disappear and wax to rise.
I hope I haven't' confused the issue too much.
Do try our Fly-Tie resins someday. They are pretty foolproof"
Mark, I am not painting the entire reel. I take off the 2 sideplates and the "nose" section around the levelwind and paint those. I can get my reels apart and prepped in about 10 minutes or so. I know that there are some guys that paint the frame, but I have never broken a reel down completely like that. If i could figure out how to make my pictures smaller, I would post a few...everything exceeds the 2mb max
Bob, I will look into the Dick Nite S81 as well. But, it sounds like one of the solarez products should get the results I am looking for. I haven't tried the fly tie resin that he recommends yet, but I did get some samples when i was there.
Eric