spidergrub6

I only make smaller swimmers but for my baits I just use two eye screw hook hangers that are interlocked. For bigger baits I have seen that guys use four eyescrews (check out the white knuckle swimbaits) two closed eye in one section and two open eye in the other and then interlock and close the eyes with pliers. Of course screw eyes are not going to be near as smooth as other hinges but it's easy and it works alright. good luck:yay:

Hey V-man, I checked out the rapala x-ray site and it was very interesting thanks a bunch for the link. Okay so after finally putting a real spook in the sink to check out the angle(something I should have done in the first place:mad:) I am convinced that for walkers the weight needs to be placed in the tail of the bait to make a 45 degree angle wiht 1/3 of the bait above water. I'm going to the lake today to do some fishing:) and test out some sealed baits so hopefully I'll figure out something about weighting waking crank baits. Keep the great insight coming:worship:

Hey thanks guys for the responses. Your right, the topic is very broad and is found scattered thoughout other threads but I was hoping to compile all of the great advice you guys have into one thread so it is easier to find. The bait that I am specifically working on is the top water walker. My ennitial approach was to place the ballast in the middle of the bait as I thought this would provide a pivot point and produce that "X-ing" action that was described. The bait did walk but not well and after reading other threads I am convinced that a tail weighting system is better. After seeing how much thought could go into the weighting of a top water, I thought it would be very interesing if I could get your ideas on other styles. With crankbaits I generally either mount the ballast in combination with the hook hanger or in a spot a little farther forward( thus making the dive angle steeper). Here's another question for you guys- Would you put weight into a basswood crankbait style waker? I have made one and have not tested it out yet but am thinking a ballast might be necessary even though you lose buoyancy. Just some stuff to chew on for a while:)

I am also a newbie at this airbrushing thing and am using canned air. I agree that it's probably more cost effective to buy the compressor but am scared of the ennitial cost:eek:. If bigger is better why do most compressors labeled airbrush specific only put out around 30 psi? Also, do you have to buy tons of other accesories such as humidity filters in order to be able to spray well? Kinda gettin' worried about the cost that is going into this hobby:(. Maybe I should take up something cheaper such as stock car racing:wink:

Hi guys, I'm starting this thread because I want your ideas on weight placement in various styles of fishing lures: top water walkers, gliders, minnows, jerkbaits, crankbaits, etc. By weight placement I mean high, low, forward(nose), tail, or centered and so forth. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

Hey thanks for the advice Bob. I had been trying to use spinner shaft wire that was real stiff but I've got some softer stuff that shoud work. I'll probably try your idea with the one hole and folding it over on the back, sounds good. Also is there a reliable method for finding the exact center line on the bill? Or do you just eye ball it with a ruler? Thanks again,

Alright guys, I've got another question. For diving bass cranks I have been using the lexan lips with the line tie molded in from Janns Net Craft, the only problem is that, because they are so thick, when I cut the lip slot the wood tends to chip:(. I thought that using micarta lips would help but can't figure out how to install a line tie. Could someone give me a few pointers. I don't know if you drill one hole for the wire or two and wether you epoxy the wire in place or not. As always thanks for any help.

I have just started using etex also. For the drying wheel I left the baits (bass size) on for about 5 hours and then just hung them up to cure completely. I did not have any problems with the stuff running but it may be different for bigger baits. On coats I am not sure but it sounds like a lot of the guys use two or three for a top coat.

Hey thanks guys for all the advice. Is poplar available at most building supply stores in the U.S. or would I have to order it? I'll have to check out the link on wood hardness and see where bass wood fits but it seems really buoyant.

I recently ordered some ultra fine gold glitter from Janns Net Craft. It is not the soft plastic stuff but is for hard baits and jig heads. Planning on mixing it with clear lacquer and painting that on before the etex top coat for perch and carp pattern baits. I like this idea better than gold paint because it adds accent but doesn't over do it..

Hi guys, I've recently had the inspiration to try to make a sinking jointed swim bait like the Sebile magic swimmer. Up till now I've made mainly floater/diver bass cranks and used bass wood. The problem is that bass wood is far to buoyant to use for a slow sinker/suspender even with lots of added weight:drool:. I've heard of people on here using maple, is this a dense wood? Will it sink with litlle added weight? At the area hardwear store they sell hard wood dowels that I'm thinking about trying. I think they're either maple or ash. Do any of you swimbait guys out there know of a good wood that will sink real slow with little weight. As always I appreciate any help.

Hi guys, I just picked up some envirotex and have built a drying rack for my baits my question is do you thin the etex with anything and if so what is the ratio? Is the ratio different for the seal coat verses the top coat? Thanks.

Ya I'm in the same boat as all of you as to finding a safe top coat. I've used spray on enamal- cracks and isn't waterproof. Polyurethanes- gets gummy when soaked in water.Component systems Seal Coat- cracked and peeled around the lip and hook hangers, even after three coats( Although on the rest of the bait it held up okay). Now I'm gonna try etex just cause I don't see an alternative but I'll have to use it outside which, here in Wisconsin, rules out 6 months of the year because of freezing cold weather. Maybe all the top scientists in the world should add a safe dependable seal coat to their agenda along with curing cancer and world hunger.

Ya the cracks may be stress cracks, but I put on three coats and the rest of the finish held up very well even after being soaked in a bucket for a half hour. Could it be that the finnish is not adhering to the metal hook hangers and is reacting with the plastic lip? The cracks formed even before the bait was in the water and started to peel after being submerged awhile. Thanks a bunch for the replys:wink:

Has anyone out there used Component Systems Seal Coat with any success. It seemed to work fine on the main body of the bait but around the lip and hook hangers it spidercracked and water got in and started peeling. I brushed it on, don't know if I should dip instead or if it makes a difference. It is a waterbased product so maybe I should try an epoxy like envirotex or D2t. I would really really appreciate any help that can be offered. Thanks!

Up here in Wisconsin the largemouth eat a lot of sunfish cause there's not a lot of shad in lakes, also fathead minnows and the like and frogs. For smallies its a lot of crawdads and some perch and minnows. There's also an asortment of shiners, daces, chubs, and suckers.

So if bass wood expands and swells (Which I have experienced), is it better to use balsa or white cedar. I've had a lot of problems trying to seal basswood.

Okay this is off topic but I'm new on this site and can't figure out how to start a new thread. Any help would be great.

So if you use this envirotex stuff do you use it as a top coat over the paint? Do you dip, brush, spray or what? Also, has anybody had any success with Componant Systems seal coat? I'm new at this and any help would be great! Thanks!