kevin24018

wow 5 year old thread hahaha, but yeah I think they were Russian videos and the foam looked like a sponge that you would wash your dishes with

Since most of the fish I catch I release I'm thinking of removing the treble hooks from my in-line spinners and switching to a single hook (for stocked trout mostly) Thinking a size 4 would be a good replacement size. While the individual hooks on the treble are smaller the overall bulk of the treble makes me think a 4 would basically be the same width. Thoughts?

I've got some other blade styles coming, basically I used what I had. The larger size colorado blades I have not had any issues with, the smaller ones I've had some difficulty getting them to spin but I couldn't really narrow down the reason. The panther martin I heard are practically never fail, though they don't lay nice and flat like clevis attached blades will. They should be coming in a couple of days and hopefully I'll get a chance just to try them out and see if I can tell any difference.

the wire I use, it's on amazon, very springy so be careful taking it off the roll or the whole thing will unravel very quickly(Aircraft Tool Supply Safety Lock Wire (.032)) I also use a Worth Wire Forming Tool and a variety of loop forming pliers, cutters etc

yes they are metal (spacer beads) Though I may try something different like coiling some wire where the beads are. My thought is the less surface area the less friction, however it could be that I am at a point of diminishing returns, it doesn't/won't matter. Anything worth engineering is worth OVER engineering haha

I've made the exact same spinner only changing one thing at a time to see if I can isolate the issue as to why one won't spin, bottom line, I have no freakin idea. Changing the number or size of the beads didn't matter. My only guess is it's the blade itself. In my frustration I've bent or otherwise "modified" the blade to get it to spin, sometime it worked sometimes not. Eventually I would just cut the wire and reuse the components. I haven't put all of these in the water yet, but the ones with hooks do work.

No idea what they are actually called but they look like an inline spinner, at the bottom that you can open up and attach to another lure (snap loop?) is there any special wire used for those? something like this

There are several youtube videos on guys making lures out of what looks to be cushion foam and or those sponges you wash cars with. They are all in Russian so I'm not sure if the material they use absorbs water or not. Anyone have experience or know much about making lures this way?

think this would be fine for stocked rainbows? A size-25 (1) ball-bearing spinning reel couples with a 9', 2-Pc. rod Shakespeare Crappie Hunter 9' Spinning Combo Action: Light 4-10 lb. line 9 hardloy guides Strong two piece tubular glass construction. Spinning Reel: 1 Ball bearing 5.2:1 Gear Ratio

just trust in the liberals they know what's best for everyone! logic and science has nothing to do with it, it's all about feelings. There apparently wasn't much concern when mercury contaminated everything. Apparently mercury is ok as I never hear any more efforts to clean it up. Many states have already stopped using lead wheel weights. Personally I think it has more to do with gun control then fishing.

he compares 3 different methods of mixed the calk

since lots of food is baked or broiled anywhere from 350-400 the corn starch or flour wouldn't/shouldn't be an issue

has anyone tried this? kind of the same but...

the ecoflex has a shore of 00-20, they also make a 00-10, there is a softener and hardener available also. This should be fine to make soft plastic baits from right? now mind you it's not as clear as the plastisol and may not pick up as much detail either, but all I really want to know is if the shore rating seem on par with the wal-mart soft plastics or just regular stuff? I tried to do a search but nothing really came up. since it doesn't need to be heated that's a huge advantage (imo) especially when children are involved.

your question is "will it work?" the answer is yes, the plastic melts around 325 degrees, so pretty much any method to get the plastic to the melting point "will work" certainly there are better and easier ways to do it, but that was not your question.

Banjo minnow, helicopter lure, what was that other one that you jigged it forward but then glided away from you because of the design and weight placement? anyway look and see how many "magnets" there have been and how many are still sticking around that isn't old stock in a warehouse. Take some business courses and do some research there are a lot of formulas for calculating costs and pricing. Most of the time even as a hobby if you can break even you are doing great when you factor supplies,equipment and the waste/fails that happen. do a search for "fishing lures as seen on tv" everyone has a better idea, but what seems to really last?

check ebay for rotisserie motors can get them for $10 shipped with a plug. You can get the turn table motor from microwaves cheap as well think those are around 5 rpm

I saw someone use the word spandex as well, but I wasn't sure if that was translated or perhaps ment something different in their language. The spandex I remember (growing up in the 80's) was stretchy. Hadn't thought about the rip stop nylon. I have used some to make kites in the past and it comes in different weights etc, it's fairly cheap from what I remember, thanks everyone! Hughesy those are exactly what I'm talking about, thanks.

So many ways to skin a cat er um fish I mean Here's what I have found so far Pin type hinge made in plastic and metal screw eyes various wire looping methods now what I have seen are multi segmented lures that don't have hinges but rather seems to be some sort of flexible material. I'm not sure what it is, perhaps a rubber gasket material cut to size, and some i have seen it appears the segments are actually build or cast onto this material itself. Was thinking about going to a junk yard and getting some seat belts, although I'm not sure they would hold together after cutting them. Any one have experience using a solid type of hinge/joint? Not sure what to call it.

sounds like you need to make a bigger base? Think of a brick and the mold is in the middle.....after you have the mold people often coat it with decopodge or a diluted white glue and water mixture to seal it, probably adds some strength too. There is a similar stuff to plaster I have seen, don't remember the name the the can is red and on the front is a cartoon looking guy flexing his muscles. One of the benefits of p.o.p. is the low price, if you get into the other/similar things you can use your cost will go up a lot imo. search plaster of paris on amazon and you will find many similar products, then compare prices etc.

there are glow in the dark pigments....if you search ebay or amazon you'll find them, alibaba is the cheapest I found, there are glow in the dark plastics on ebay just to give you an idea of what's there.

apparently it's only available in the U.K. the product is labeled as a cold cured silicone, all it appears to be is really soft rtv silicone/rubber? Although the properties are much different than plastisol might be an easy/economical way to experiment. any thoughts? oh I believe you can get a softner for the rtv silicone.

probably both, with a quality printer wouldn't be difficult to print and apply whatever you want, air brush, coat/seal and bingo yer done. more than one way to skin a cat......fish.

actually that excellent advise, if that's not added to a sticky somewhere it should be.