RayburnGuy

That is some NICE work. Ben

I would suggest getting a scale that measures in both grams and ounces and then reading up on Archimedes theory of water displacement. Also called the dunk test here at TU. You need a scale that measures in grams because Archimedes theory doesn't work with ounces. Only in grams. Once you have a grasp on water displacement it will make weighting a lure much easier. Ben

Have you tried using any ballast? Ben

Glenn, your a genius. Ben

With all the tools you have and you don't have a rod butt steam chest? You might as well donate all your stuff to Goodwill and take up tiddly-winks. Ben

Here a couple years ago I was "hot rodding" a reel used for throwing deep crankbaits and was considering buying a magnetic breaking aftermarket add-on for an ABU 6500 and had the very same questions about the magnetic braking as you did. That was the explanation they gave me. Exactly how much impact it has I really can't say. Unless you have a highly educated thumb your still going to need centrifugal braking in addition to the magnetic braking. For increasing distance with high line capacity reels the best thing you can do IMO is to remove the level wind. There is a massive amount of energy that goes into working the level wind. It takes a little practice to learn how to guide the line back onto the reel manually, but if distance is what your looking for it's well worth it. Ben

Would steam work? I know it's used to take small dents out of wood and I'd bet you've done that Mark. Ben

My pleasure. That's what we're here for. Ben

You can tell it's been a while since they came out when the instructions are on a VHS tape. Ben

The magnets create a magnetic wave which creates resistance on the spool even though there is no actual magnetic attraction. The magnets move closer to and farther away from the spool according to how you have them set. The closer the magnets are to the spool the more resistance this magnetic wave has on the spool. At least that's how it was explained to me. Ben

Hemostats work well for me. They can be clamped on the hook hangers or line ties and the finger loops in the hemostats can be hung on "J" hooks screwed into your workbench to hold the bait while your working on the next one. Ben

Roland Martin should be ashamed of himself for this one. Ben

Thanks Archery1. That's the same rod Mark was suggesting. Will have to take another look at it. Ben

One way to prove the date of your concept is to gather all information (drawings, sketches, notes, etc.) and put a copy of them in an envelope and mail it to yourself. Once it goes through the mail it will be stamped with the date. Once you receive the envelope just put it away unopened in your files. Then if you have a company making claims that they started on the idea before you did there is proof positive as to when you started. Ben

If you want to get an understanding of why a lure swells in the heat go outside and build a small fire. Now throw a can of pork and beans into the fire. It won't be long and comprehension will smack you right in the face. Ben

Thanks Mark. Will take a look. Ben

Thanks Bob. I'll check out the rods you suggested. Ben

I've been getting mine on Ebay. Ben

Hey guys, Can you recommend a decent frog rod that won't break the bank? I've tried ordering a couple on the web and have so far ended up with rods that are more suitable for worming than frogging. Looking for something with plenty of backbone, but with a soft enough tip to allow for good casting accuracy. thanks, Ben

Properly mixed and thinned epoxy needs no heating. If you feel the need to use heat then warm the epoxy BEFORE you apply it. That way any air trapped inside the wood won't be expanding and causing problems. Just be forewarned that heating the epoxy cuts into the time you have to apply it and have it self level on the bait. Ben

Mark, I thoroughly dry each layer of paint (Createx, Wicked, Auto Air) with a heat gun and haven't had any problems spraying DN cut with acetone. I have no way of proving it, but it's my belief that most of the acetone flashes off before it ever reaches the bait your painting. Ben

Thanks guys. I am working with Russ Allen ( thanks Crab) to get some stencils cut. Hopefully he can fix me up. Ben

Have you tried placing the lure blank between two pieces of scrap wood like a sandwich? This will usually prevent tear out. Ben