RayburnGuy

There is one advantage spraying has over brushing that I have found. With spraying you don't have to worry about bubbles in the top coat. For whatever reason I would occasionally end up with small bubbles when brushing a top coat. Most of the time these could be dealt with IF these tired old eyes saw them. So far I have not had to deal with bubbles in the top coat on any of the baits that were sprayed. Not sure why it happens, but sometimes one persons techniques don't work as well for someone else. Sometimes it could be something as simple as a difference in atmospheric conditions such as humidity levels. For example, when spraying DN I place my baits on a lure turner to cure. Bob has had adverse reactions in the form of paint wrinkling when placing DN covered baits on a lure turner. For some reason I don't have this problem. It could be that spraying ends up with a thinner coating than brushing so the DN doesn't stay in a liquid state as long on the sprayed baits. Staying in a liquid state for a longer period of time possibly gives the DN longer to react with the paint. Maybe it's a combination of heat and humidity. I'm not a chemist so this is only a guess on my part, but my procedure works for me just like Bob's works for him even though while using the same materials we apply them in a different manner. This is what some people fail to understand when asking for solutions to problems they're having. I don't know of anyone at TU who would intentionally mislead someone when it comes to answering lure building questions. It all boils down to the fact that there is no ONE way to build a lure. If there was only one way to do things it would get pretty boring around here and instead of a lure building forum TU would be boiled down to a list of rules. Every builder that has been around for a while knows EXACTLY how expensive it can get when trying different materials and techniques, but sometimes this is necessary to find out what works best for you. Ben

I spray Dick Nite, but only build a couple baits at any one time so I just spray it with an airbrush. For spraying the number of baits your talking about an HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun should suit your needs. Unless your set up with a proper spray booth, and safety equipment, I wouldn't recommend using auto clears. Not saying they won't do the job, but they can be extremely hazardous to your health if you don't have the right safety gear. This would include anyone in the same area that could be exposed to the fumes. There are numerous threads discussing this subject and you would be well advised to do a search and read up on spraying auto clear. Just because you plan on spraying your top coat doesn't mean your limited to auto clears. When you get right down to it if your using a liquid top coat, and I can't think of any that aren't liquid, then there is a way to spray it. hope this helps, Ben

Gliders, If you'll make the part of the jig that holds your lure blank where you can slide it to the left or right then you can make the lip slot to fit whatever thickness of lip material you want. All you would have to do is have a stop block that positions the jig in the desired location. If your saw blade cuts a 1/8" kerf and you need a 3/16 slot just position the jig against the stop block and make your first cut. Then loosen the jig and slide it away from the stop block enough that you could then place a 1/16" shim between the stop block and the jig and tighten it back down. Now just run it through the saw again and you have a 3/16" slot. Ben

Well said Bob. You've pretty much summed it up. Ben

You can also find the graduated cups at your local pharmacy. They're the ones like they bring your pills to you in if you've ever been in the hospital. I get them for less than $3 for a 100 pack. Ben

Well said Bob. Ben

Etex is designed to be a covering for bar tops, table tops and those sorts of things. It has solvents in it that help it to flow so it self levels. A bar top with high and low spots in it wouldn't be very practical or attractive. We have to keep this in mind when using it as a coating for lures and remember to apply it in thin layers. This is why most people that use Etex do multiple thin coats. If you try to layer it on too thick thinking you'll save time you are only creating problems for yourself farther down the line. Etex also has to be mixed thoroughly. I think the directions say to mix it for 5 minutes. Warming the epoxy will indeed allow any bubbles to dissipate better, but you need to remember that by warming it you are also reducing the viscosity. (making it thinner) By making it thinner you are making it easier for it to sag and run once the bait is on the turner. If you want to warm it to help do away with any bubbles you can let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes after mixing to allow it to cool back down a bit. This will also allow time for bubbles to rise to the top. There's no need to be in a hurry when using Etex. If your trying to cover so many baits that your having to hurry then you need to rethink how many lures your trying to coat and reduce that number until it's something you can do comfortably. Using a soft bristled brush to apply the epoxy will also help keep bubbles to a minimum. At least it has for me. Ben

http://autoaircolors.com/paints/4650.html http://autoaircolors.com/application-guides.html

Thanks guys. I really appreciate everyone's help. Ben

Thanks for the info and the tip Bob. I'll have to give that a try. Ben

One thing I've figured out about getting older Al is that if we can't learn to laugh at ourselves then we're going to spend a lot time crying in our milk and I hate salty milk.

I've never used them Mike. Know just a little more about O-rings than a turtle does about arithmetic and I can't seem to remember to carry a Senko with me when I go anywhere close to a auto parts store. Ben

Of course it helps Al. I've never used them either so I'm just wandering around in the dark here and the help is much appreciated. thanks again....................Ben

Hi guys, I know this has been covered before, but can't seem to find it. Can someone tell me what size o-rings are needed to wacky rig Senkos? I'd like to try them on a Neko rig. thanks, Ben

Found a few 4" on Ebay. Ben http://www.ebay.com/bhp/swim-whizz They show to have the 4" on their website. http://www.swimwhizz.com/site/styles.php

Long time no see Fishnart. I handle my baits all the time and never have issues with fish eyes in either the paint or epoxy. The trick is to wash your hands in HOT (the hotter the better ) water and Dawn dish washing liquid. I hate wearing rubber gloves because I sweat so bad that it's not long before it feels as if my hand is stuck up a grease monsters rear end. Washing in hot water and Dawn solves the problem of fish eyes for me. Ben

I use a toothpick to clean the eyes before the top coat cures. You'll still have a little bit that will need to be cleaned off the hanger itself, but the hole in the hanger is clear. I usually just scrape this off with a hobby knife. Ben

X2

Cleaning your stencil after each time you spray through it will keep paint from building up on it and this will help keep it from sticking as well. All it needs is a quick wipe with a damp paper towel to remove the overspray. Ben

They have them at Fish USA. Thanks again to Clemmy. Ben https://www.fishusa.com/product/Mustad-TG76BLN-UltraPoint-KVD-Elite-Treble-Hook-11-pack

Thanks Clemmy. Much appreciated. I had looked at Captains Warehouse and didn't see them, but hadn't thought about calling. I will check into Fish USA and if they don't have them I will call the Captain. thanks again, Ben

Baby food? Is that like a small T-bone? Ben

I read about mixing paint into epoxy here at TU. Tried doing a search, but didn't come up with anything. Not sure about the effect the poster was going for, but decided to try it just for future purposes and it worked. The only time I actually used it for something was when replacing the handle inserts on a Gerber pocket knife. I used Lexan to shape the handles out of and wanted something other than just a clear handle so I mixed a couple drops of yellow Createx into the epoxy that was used to glue the handles to the knife. That's been a few years ago and the handles are still holding. Ben

You could spray a coat of acrylic clear over the bait before you top coat it. This should seal the sharpie from the top coat. Just make sure the acrylic clear is cured before applying the top coat. Ben