Fishwhittler

I wasn't very clear in my first post; my question was if any of the filters I mentioned would work with my airbrush. RayburnGuy, I was aware that the air hose getting condensation was causing the problem. I do have a filter/condenser on my pressure regulator (which is mounted next to the compressor), but the condensation in the hose is causing problems. I figured putting a second filter in the hose close to the airbrush would fix it. Vodkaman, I drain my moisture trap after every painting session. It still has moisture on the walls of the tank, but I don't think that's what the problem is. I've also taken my moisture trap off and dried it out several times. Like RayburnGuy said, my problem is condensation in the air hose. I think that the colder weather is causing the condensation, because I didn't have any issues earlier this year. For the Badger and Paasche filters, how do they install in the hose? It looks like you just cut the hose in half and stick the ends on the filter. Any help is appreciated. Ben

Lately I've been having problems with my airbrush "spitting" water while I'm painting. I've been able to temporarily fix that by removing the nozzle cover and spraying the water out, but that only works for a little while before it starts spitting water again. I'm looking to get a moisture trap (I've got one that's mounted on the compressor, but apparently it's not doing it's job very well), and I was wondering if any of these three moisture traps will fit my brush. I'm using a Master G22 airbrush with an Airbrush Depot TC-20 compressor. Paasche In-Line Drainable Moisture Trap Badger Transparent In-Line Drainable Moisture Trap Iwata Pistol-Grip Filter I think both of the two in-line filters would probably work. The Iwata Filter might be a higher-quality filter, but it may not fit my brush so I think I'm probably better off going with either the Badger or Paasche filter. Does anyone have any suggestions or preferences? Thanks in advance. Ben

Thanks for posting this. I particularly like the fin tutorial in the first video.

Figured it was time for an update. I've been using U-40 now for over two months and still no signs of yellowing, and I don't think it's going to yellow anytime soon (if it ever does). Here's what I've noticed about U-40 and Flex Coat: For those of you that didn't see the first part of this review: Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build Review Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build: 1. Somewhat slicker to touch than Flex Coat 2. More durable (U-40 can tear if you get a hook point or other sharp object through it, but it doesn't chip or crack) 3. More teeth-resistant than Flex Coat. U-40 doesn't scratch as easily or as deeply, mainly due to its extra flexibility 4. Cheaper than Flex Coat U-40 is also considerably thicker than Flex Coat, but that can be either an advantage or a disadvantage. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you used the medium-viscosity version of U-40. Flex Coat Ultra V: 1. Easier to mix bubble-free than U-40. I can mix Flex Coat completely bubble-free, which so far I haven't been able to do with U-40. 2. Slightly longer cure time, which means you have more application time. 3. Less odor (U-40 doesn't smell very much, but Flex Coat has practically no odor at all) 4. Easier application. Flex Coat is thinner and spreads easier than U-40. Those are the main points I can think of, but that should give a pretty fair idea of how U-40 compares to Flex Coat. Neither of these can claim the title of the "Perfect Topcoat", but both are excellent coatings that provide very good protection for lures. Thanks for reading. Ben