Fish Candy Bait Company

I like the disclaimer idea but take it as a complement of your craftsmanship. Don't feel bad about showing off your work. I started by trading or giving some away and now I just sell them. You will not likely get rich from selling but at least you can cover cost and pay for more molds.

I do have some from all of them but my favorite is LureCraft.

Well those were fresh out of the UPS box so they will never look like that again.

The LC pots are small enough that you can fit 3 on their hot plate at one time. You can crowd 4 of them on it but not sure of the results. Medium low seems to be the best area to keep it warm based on my initial test. I got the 5 pan price just so I would have some extras. Next step is to make a divided pan. They are 4 oz pans so think of them like a soda can with a handle. I suppose you might tinker with a can to see if you could use it to heat and pour with but the cost of these are not too bad.

Are you preheating the injector close to the plastic temp? Some use a hot plate, I stick them in my toaster oven with the knob outside the door. Get the plastic temp up to 350 I think for M-F.

He may be referring to injection. I prefer to do hand pours over injection for the time issue. Heat the injectors then shoot the injectors then cool them to clean and repeat. I prefer the two cup approach and am going to a two pan one as an experiment to see if they pour better.

I buy plenty from them but I doubt I will ever get a chance to visit them. I am fortunate to be close enough to visit Barlows on occasion. The problem with the picture posting is they need to be hosted somewhere. If you like I can upload them to my web site files so they can be linked here.

The hellgramites sounds like a good one. Are they going to be open pours in RTV? When will they be available on the web site? Email me the pictures and I will post them up for you.

I have heard that he has purchased a brand new CNC machine and is learning how to program it. It sounds like his molds are going to kick it up a notch so keep an eye on his site.

You just have to get everything working together. Practice goes a long way. Get the temp up as hot plastic will flow better into those thin difficult areas. Raise the mold up closer to your eye level until you get a feel for the mold helps just like using your other hand to steady. Maybe it is not the right mold for your abilities in the end. Don't give up just keep working on it or look for another mold that you can get the results you are looking for.

Did you look at Basstackle's mold? It looks pretty good if you don't have any luck making one.

Actually those pans holding a few oz of plastic will be just right for what I want to do. For me the presto pots hold too much for what I want to do and the complete package is pricey. I keep the injectors warm in the toaster oven when I do injections and don't rest them in the hot plastic anyways. I only have a couple of injection molds due to their design and higher cost, I would rather do a pour with a cup in each hand. The Lee pot would be good to rest your injectors in between batches but they seem to have some drawbacks. If they would design a pot with multiple heating elements and better temperature control I would go for the Lee. Below is an example of my pyrex in each hand 2 color pour. It is just a time killer to keep reheating in the microwave between batches. It would go a lot quicker if I can have the plastic right there to pour after demolding. I think I am going to give the hot plate a try.

Go to a cooking supply store or a flea market. You are looking for those table tents they use to put over dishes of food at a picnic. They look like this but should be cheaper. It will provide a lot of material and should last you a long time.

So if you were only heating 8 oz or so of plastic at a time would these work good? I think the problem is keeping the colors at temp when doing 2 color pours using a microwave. You have to reheat after you demold back up to temp and that takes time, with the possibility of scorching the plastic in the process. The Lee pot would be more stable to set your injectors into without turning over. The other option to the Pyrex and hot plate is the pans that LC has. They claim their hot plate will hold three of them at a time but I would be interested in only 2 on it. If you can get it dialed in and just turn it on for X minutes and the plastic should be close to temp then this might be the way to go. For about the same price as a Lee Pot you could get two hot plates and five pans and alternate having a heated or reheating color on standby while using the other one. I use a cup in each hand pouring into a two piece mold so it would be the same thing using two pans. Otherwise I would drain some out of each Lee pot into the cups, pour and return to the Lee pot to reheat.

I tend to study the mold and see if anyone else has bought it & what theirs thoughts were. Sometimes you can get a single or double of a bait as well as 5 or more cavity mold. I would buy a single one if I am in doubt then see how it does. If you like the action and sales support it then go for the larger cavity. So far I don't have any orphan molds. I do have a couple that I need to get some bigger ones to cut down on pouring time though.

Just thought I would share a picture of a line of spoons I am working on. This is the first prototype in a line of 10 skirt colors I have. I applied a clear scale decal to it. I have several other colors and designs I can apply to it. This one is called the Fry Chaser.

I have switched to the new "Green" plastic and there is no more greasy residue. The M-F plastic I used before had that grease problem so maybe being Phthalate free has something to do with it. My baits also don't have that strong plastic smell after they cure. They are just as durable and I do not use salt or hardener/softener either.

The rotisserie came with the forks to hold the meat on the spit. What I did was bend them back so you can slide the springs on and off. The springs I got at Lowes. I got several sizes and the longer ones can be cut in half. The nice part about the turner is the spit forks can be adjusted for different size bait and spring combos. You will need to build the frame to mount it on out of scrap wood.

If the pro's are using it then try to find out which ones. Then maybe you could see a picture of it on their website. There also is a possibility that who ever is making it won't release it until it has been used and tested by the pro for awhile. You could try a light tan or light green with large black glitter and a white or light bubblegum with the black glitter for the bottom half.

You mentioned portability so here is a picture of my airbrush bench as a small space example. I like to use the helping hands tool on it to hold baits while painting. Here is an old picture of my main bench to show my paint caddy in the upper right. It holds a bunch of paint and various other paint related items. Here is a picture of my $20 lure turner. It is a rotisserie for a grill that I modified. They can be had at walmart or other similar stores.

Well it is not my site and I would not have called it a dingo either.

They are not cheap but try here and scroll down to the bottom for the blanks. http://www.gruntmuskielures.com/jointedswimbaitlure.html Luremaking has a couple but they are not jointed. http://www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/crankbaits/muskie_lure_blanks.htm

I think if the video worked on the Hagen's site I would lean towards it. Right now for me I like how the Boggs works in the video. Seeing in action is what sells it to me. I don't see me using a heavy wire at this point because I don't have plans to make spinner or buzz type baits.

Not sure where you found them at but I got them at Barlows and Jann's carries them too.