spoonbender

Would be painting crankbaits with the glow. I've used the aerosol versions, not bad for a base, but, as you mentioned, due to the finer particles, don't glow for much more than a 1/2 hour or so. I have tried the glow tape and sheeting on trolling spoons, but it would be difficult to conform it to the more variable geometry's of the crankbaits.

A quickie search didn't net any results so I need to pester you boys for a little help on the best extended glow paint compatible with plastic lures. I have a request for a few dozen in various colors. I've used extended glow powders for trolling spoons and jigs but no acrylics or enamels to date. Any experience out there?

Here's one that I've used from time to time, actually gives you the ratios needed to obtain the colors. As you can't always buy the exact color needed, mixing is sometimes the only option, especially when trying to "match the hatch". My link

I've been using 1 1/2" PVC clear 2:1 ratio shrink tubing with some success, a tad heavy to cut but do-able with a sharp knife. Make sure you order only single wall...as the double wall alternative has a thermal melt glue in it. Also, if you have an extra few bucks, pick up an Exacto swivel blade system. The knife is around ten bucks and the replacement blades are around a buck or so, really makes for an impressive system for following the intricate cuts necessary for stencils.

In case Vann can't be raised, the 110's are listed on ebay under fishincomforts store. Do a search for unpainted crankbaits, page through all the junk, you'll find 'em.

Lure Parts Online has one that ain't bad. http://lurepartsonline.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1767

I've also had issues with fisheyes, but in my case believe it's caused by application of epoxy before the paint finish is completely cured. It's most noticeable when I use gloss finishes, especially those bled from aerosol cans so may be a lack of complete mixing (shaking) of can and concentrations of the gloss wetting additives. Don't confuse air bubbles with fishseyes, as they are a completely different malady. If you start application when the epoxy starts thickening, the brushing action will drag the material over gaps in coverage without adhering to the lure. During the turning process, the material dragged over the gap will re-incorporate into the surrounding finish and leaves an "opening" in the finish. As the other gents have mentioned, thin your epoxy with DNA and apply it as soon as it's mixed properly. I use an alcohol lamp to provide a little heat and CO2 to dispense with any bubbles than form during the coating process.

Anyone purchased any 5" unpainted minnow bodies from Barlows of late? I bought a few about 3 years ago and they were pretty poor examples, most of them were distorted at the tail and wouldn't swim. Their latest catalog has a slightly different looking model and the price is right......just wondering.....

Busting Bass Baits (www.bustinbassbaits.com) has a larger version in a plastic body. A bit deeper in profile than the Team Esko but should have the similar wide wobble.

Jim from Predator Bass Baits has the best ones I've found so far....but I think he might be out of stock right now. Jann's Netcraft has them also, call 'em the Springer 100.

I'd like to promote the "Made In USA" idea but I haven't done well securing unpainted crank bodies of domestic mfg. I prefer the minnow bodies for most of our coldwater/coolwater species. I've contacted Kendik several times without a response and similar results with JLV lures from Hawaii (still USA made). There's a great plastic injection company here locally but a set of molds could cost upwards of $12,000 which is a bit over my spouse allotted allowance. Ideas?

The cleanest way I've found is to spray the clear on the lure and while it's still wet, dust it with a shot from a powder coating airbrush filled with your favorite glitter/prism's/pearls. The goodies only stick to the wet clearcoat and can get covered with subsequent coats for a more 3D effect.

I'm with JSC, like the powder coating program over standard liquid paints for metallic lure parts. I've done both over the years, use the powder almost exclusively now. Powder water allows adding great details with an airbrush, and there's a ton of cool holographic and shift powders available.

I'm able to log on Dave, what username would I use to direct your plight to the administrators?