spoonbender

Would be painting crankbaits with the glow. I've used the aerosol versions, not bad for a base, but, as you mentioned, due to the finer particles, don't glow for much more than a 1/2 hour or so. I have tried the glow tape and sheeting on trolling spoons, but it would be difficult to conform it to the more variable geometry's of the crankbaits.

A quickie search didn't net any results so I need to pester you boys for a little help on the best extended glow paint compatible with plastic lures. I have a request for a few dozen in various colors. I've used extended glow powders for trolling spoons and jigs but no acrylics or enamels to date. Any experience out there?

Here's one that I've used from time to time, actually gives you the ratios needed to obtain the colors. As you can't always buy the exact color needed, mixing is sometimes the only option, especially when trying to "match the hatch". My link

I've been using 1 1/2" PVC clear 2:1 ratio shrink tubing with some success, a tad heavy to cut but do-able with a sharp knife. Make sure you order only single wall...as the double wall alternative has a thermal melt glue in it. Also, if you have an extra few bucks, pick up an Exacto swivel blade system. The knife is around ten bucks and the replacement blades are around a buck or so, really makes for an impressive system for following the intricate cuts necessary for stencils.

In case Vann can't be raised, the 110's are listed on ebay under fishincomforts store. Do a search for unpainted crankbaits, page through all the junk, you'll find 'em.

Lure Parts Online has one that ain't bad. http://lurepartsonline.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1767

I've also had issues with fisheyes, but in my case believe it's caused by application of epoxy before the paint finish is completely cured. It's most noticeable when I use gloss finishes, especially those bled from aerosol cans so may be a lack of complete mixing (shaking) of can and concentrations of the gloss wetting additives. Don't confuse air bubbles with fishseyes, as they are a completely different malady. If you start application when the epoxy starts thickening, the brushing action will drag the material over gaps in coverage without adhering to the lure. During the turning process, the material dragged over the gap will re-incorporate into the surrounding finish and leaves an "opening" in the finish. As the other gents have mentioned, thin your epoxy with DNA and apply it as soon as it's mixed properly. I use an alcohol lamp to provide a little heat and CO2 to dispense with any bubbles than form during the coating process.

Anyone purchased any 5" unpainted minnow bodies from Barlows of late? I bought a few about 3 years ago and they were pretty poor examples, most of them were distorted at the tail and wouldn't swim. Their latest catalog has a slightly different looking model and the price is right......just wondering.....

Busting Bass Baits (www.bustinbassbaits.com) has a larger version in a plastic body. A bit deeper in profile than the Team Esko but should have the similar wide wobble.

Jim from Predator Bass Baits has the best ones I've found so far....but I think he might be out of stock right now. Jann's Netcraft has them also, call 'em the Springer 100.

I'd like to promote the "Made In USA" idea but I haven't done well securing unpainted crank bodies of domestic mfg. I prefer the minnow bodies for most of our coldwater/coolwater species. I've contacted Kendik several times without a response and similar results with JLV lures from Hawaii (still USA made). There's a great plastic injection company here locally but a set of molds could cost upwards of $12,000 which is a bit over my spouse allotted allowance. Ideas?

The cleanest way I've found is to spray the clear on the lure and while it's still wet, dust it with a shot from a powder coating airbrush filled with your favorite glitter/prism's/pearls. The goodies only stick to the wet clearcoat and can get covered with subsequent coats for a more 3D effect.

I'm with JSC, like the powder coating program over standard liquid paints for metallic lure parts. I've done both over the years, use the powder almost exclusively now. Powder water allows adding great details with an airbrush, and there's a ton of cool holographic and shift powders available.

I'm able to log on Dave, what username would I use to direct your plight to the administrators?

In addition to Predator Bass Baits, I've found very high quality blanks from BustinBassBaits.com.

As a P.S., also recommend soaking the rings in acetone to remove any lube left over from the forming process to allow better cure of the adhesive. Just strain 'em out and let 'em dry a bit before use.

I've used petroleum jelly as a release agent on hinges and eyes, clean it out after the epoxy clears. Just be very careful where you apply it, will leave nasty fisheye's in the clear coat wherever there's a trace. It can be washed off with hot soapy water when all's done.

Welcome aboard Tex, hope you enjoy the site as much as I. My luremaking motto has become "Buy High...Sell Low"

I needed to paint some soft plastic tails for a Spro BBZ1 knock off and didn't want to wait for the right stuff so used transparent orange and yellow CSI vinyl paint just for giggles on one sample tail. After appropriate drying time, looked the tail over and wasn't very impressed with the finish so threw it on top of the paint booth with a few other misfit projects that never made it to market. Today while cleaning up the shop a little I grabbed the tail and noticed that the finish was still a little sticky and bubbling a bit, so lightly scraped off the paint that was like sunburned skin peeling off your arm. After peeling off the loose material, noticed that the color was still there, actually seemed like the dye penetrated into the plastic without leaving any surface residue, looked pretty professional,....which is rare for my work. I've used the dips for sprucing up a plastic worm here and there, but didn't have the same effect as this stuff. No big revelation here guys, just an observation....will give a few other colors a try just for kicks.

Variable heat ranges and a High/Low speed selector would be my thoughts, works well for me.

Back at you Jeep, Frohe Weihnachten!

Good points here on both sides of the coin, just what I was looking for. I've done lure making all my life, mostly just for my use and a few fishing buddies. I'ts now taken on a life of it's own with more requests for custom patterns. I realize how quickly an enjoyable hobby can turn into an ugly mistress and would rather not lose money at something that begins to resemble another job. I'm flirting with retirement in a few years and wouldn't mind a part time business so need to start putting the wheels on a program now.....hopefully with a clear, objective viewpoint of the tackle industry. Thanks guys, good info.

This topic might not be the most appropriate for this site, maybe even impolite, but I'm curious as to what most folks consider a reasonable profit for handpainted crankbaits. I'm not in it to get rich but would like to show a little something for the labor involved and recover the material costs. I've only sold lures to guides and individuals previously, ranging from 10 to 15 bucks, but have been getting requests from tackle shops for custom patterns in larger quantities. How much do they make on commercially available lures? One shop suggested they double their cost, which sounds a bit excessive. Thoughts?