spoonpluggergino

No I have not used it for top coat in the envirotex lite instruction they suggest to seal the material with couple of coats of spray then do clear coat with e-tex lite Gino

I just purchased 4 cans of Envirotex spray to seal wood for 4.95 ea. normally sells for at least 9.00 per can here is the company name Creative Wholesale Gino Here is the website www.creativewholesale.com

The A419 stat can run a heater, but you do need a relay rated for 1000 watts, or a relay with a magnetic contactor Gino

1000 watts its way to much heater, would burn the cabinet down all you need is a light bulb to heat up the cabinet. 40 watts to 100 watts 110 volts bulbs it's all you need. Do not need a mechanical relay due to the load is very small less than one amp, the bulb load is handled by the A419 stat Gino

For a long time I have struggled to get my E-Tex and paint just the right temperature ,due to my basement is to cold around 68 degrees I had an electrical control metal cabinet in my shop that was just right for my project, box dim.3feet x 2 feet x 6 inches deep. You can make this box out of just about any material including some kind of fiber board. I insulated the entire box with one inch insulation from Home Depot. The box can be any size. Make sure that you put a divider in the box so you can install a very small 110 volt fan to circulate the air when the stat calls for heat by using a light bulb any were from 40 watts to 100 watts. Note the fan only comes on when the bulb comes on, no need to run constant. I set the temperature control to come on at 74 degrees and off at 75, works great, no more warming up anything I have made a simple wiring diagram, make sure is fused 5 amps plenty sufficient to run the fan and light bulb The A419 Johnson control you can purchase at any heating and cooling suppliers, the 4 inch fan 110 volts got it at Scientific Lab supplier the rest at Home Depot Here some pic

Here is another site that I use Tower Hobby. One of the two has cheaper pricing on Devcon 2 ton Gino

Hobby link,

Here I have pic of the pin tool, also if you take the pin out to clean you need to wrap the pin tool with scotch tape an the ends of the pin stick out about two Millimeter to keep the pin from sliding down past the threaded washer here are pic not in order, you will get the idea Gino

Glad to have helped. I will post some pic to make this more clear Gino

I had the same problem with one of my Iwata brushes. Take the air hose off, look at the pin and make sure is screwed all the way in, mine loosened and cause the trigger to stick and blow air. I took a thin paper clip and bend it in to a U to form a little tool to fit inside the two holes in the pin brass insert this way you can tighten it back all the way up. What happens that when the brass insert backs up the spring looses compression its loose and will not push the trigger back up Gino

Thanks Cadman , I am not sure I would know how to use a cad file Gino

I have not tested the formula as of now, I have been resetting my computer and every time I have to down load my apps to my PC, windows 8.1 seem to have some issues at least on my HP Pc. I am sure that will be an asset to building glide baits, I have been using Vodkaman Archimedes system and it's accurate and easy, you can actually make suspending baits, keeping in mind water temp will effect your build but for all practical purpose it will work, also muskie baits due to their sizes they are not as critical than a small 3 inch bait. Thank you Dave Gino

Well much to my disappointment one of the mix failed but I was pushing the envelope, I made the last batch a little too thick, the other stuff still holding very good and it does a good job on clear coating the bait, it gets hard in 16 hours. I am going to make another batch this time the same ratio as the one that still holding up, the reason is that I am using two different materials and I wanted to see the difference in curing between the two. I will keep you guys posted. I have bunch baits ready to be painted, hopefully I get them done soon and use my concation to clear coat them Gino

Will do

I have been building quite a few balsa twitch baits lately and I found out it's easier to shape and round off the bait cut the lip slot than seal the bait. I was installing my wire under the belie all the way up and back. full circle, I usually cut a very thin slot about 1/4 inches deep and the wire and hook hangar fits in the slot, than I use epoxy to secure the wire. The problem doing this way is because I seal the bait in Propionate and the first time it's for three hours, but the acetone that is in the propionate mix attacks the epoxy, its okay for a short period of time or just dip and hang. Now I soak the bait in propionate first, than I cut the slot, install the wire and epoxy and do another 6 dips and everything works just fine also drilling the hole for the ballast while I am doing the wire at the same time works just fine , note the lead actually fits where the two ends of the wire meet at a specific location under the belie, that locks the wire in place because the two ends are interlocked through the lead, the hole in the pre shaped lead is about 1/16 from the bottom of the lead once I pour the epoxy everything is solid and nothing moves around and because the epoxy is self leveling there is very little sanding to do on the belie of the bait Gino

This may be off topic but has to do with dipping baits in some kind of solution. Seems clear to me that a high percentage of painters are looking for something that they can deep a bait and clear coat it and have a long lasting pot life I came across something that I am developing and I found this by pure luck and I am very excited, I will be testing this concoction that I made for another six month. Right now I am able to dip a bait and clear coated and the results are fantastic, but needs all kinds of testing under adverse condition, so fur the mix did not go bad and it is not developing a skin on top. If the results are good I will get a lawyer involved either sell the product by myself or sell the idea to a company, I really do not know what to do as of now. I will definitely take my time and do it right. I came across this a year ago and just in the last month I made the mix, I will be posting some baits that I made for this project and post them, I may be talking about this a little to early, but I had to at least see if any one would be interested in Dipping Dripping and Hang a bait Gino Testone

I foiled a few baits did not have any problems. If the baits are really round you will have problems, just the way it is, flatter baits or even longer curved baits are doable. what most guys will do is make the sides of the bait with aluminum foil that you will find in the kitchen, make your cut outs the spray them with 3m glue lightly, I use popsicle sticks on each end of the foil to align on the bait and gently lay it down, than use a sponge and gently press and smooth out, than use a smooth rounded tool to smooth out the edges. One of the secrets to get the edges not to appear when you paint clear coat the edges and the foil than paint the shoulders and belie you will not se the edges. I learned this from Solar Fall his name is Mikko He has a tutorial on doing foil on TU and a all bunch of other valuable information, go to Member Submitted Tutorials and you will find it. Mikko is one of the very best Gino