spoonpluggergino

I like to share this little tool to get read of air bubbles when clear coating with Devcon-2 ton and E-Tex and most other epoxy clear coats. When you use it you can see the bubbles disappear, the rod guys use it to blow bubbles on their rod blanks. It works really good. I purchased mine at Mud Hole in the rod tools and equipments Gino

I reduce paint to get a better flow from the airbrush and a lot less glugging. There are some paints that are really airbrush ready like ComArt, I shoot mostly Createx and I reduce it all the time. The consistency of the paint should be like 2% milk. Another Big Tip Flush your airbrush after every color change, flush and thoroughly clean brush after every use, I use a bucket of hot water when I am painting makes very easy to keep my brush clean. Go on to Createx website and there are plenty of paint reducer and medium to use, they will make your life and your painting enjoyable. Good luck and start airbrushing. Glad to be of help Gino

When I started a little over 3 years ago I went through the same dilemma, I can sympathize the way you feel. I can tell you that a bottom feed brush its easy to use but cleaning takes a lot more work vise gravity feed, I own 5 airbrushes and my workhorse is the Iwata HP-BR .3mm 1/16 Oz. cup double action. I like the bottom feed with the larger tip due to you can spray heavier paints due to the larger tips, like.5mm. Now Iwata is not the only brand that works good that is many more, it's just the ones that I happened to go for. One advise I can give you is to try to understand how an airbrush works, understanding the mechanics will help you to trouble shoot problems when the airbrush start to have spraying problems. Airbrushes are very simple and will made, most of the time is operator error, ask me I know. One reason I like Iwata is because they really stand behind their products, I am sure other manufacturers do the same. Hope this helps. Big Tip REDUCE YOUR PAINT Gino

here is the company for the .032 end mill bit www.bitsbits.com Gino

I know you are looking for a rotary bit, for me the easiest way to cut stencils is to use a stencil burner. I use mat frisket paper to make the stencils Gino

Thanks Salty's Mr. Perry the greatest fisherman and educator that ever lived spoonpluggergino

I am a spoonplugger for over 20 years and color does not matter. Mr.Buck Perry summed this way Size, Color, Action, Depth and Speed. the only things that really important is Depth and Speed. The fish will react to a lure due to depth and speed, the other three are irrelevant I build lures and paint so I can say I can do it, gives me great satisfaction, the fish do not care, how pretty the bait looks Gino The only thing that Buck would say about color is that if you catching fish on certain color by all means use it

Thank You Nathan I think I am confused with GST and AC1315. AC1315 is what I was thinking on using, I am not sure what GST is anyway, I taught it was one and the same. Ho well that is my old Italian in me. Most of the time I confuse myself and everyone else, someday I will get it right Thanks

I have been building balsa baits and I am using really thin coats of propionate to soak in to the balsa wood to give strength to the wood, due to I use these baits for musky's. Is the GST thin enough to penetrate the balsa if I let that soak for 4 hours ? Thanks Gino

I build musky baits, so I try to paint natural colors some of my favorites are walleye, perch and sucker color baits. I do love to paint bluegills but that takes too much of my time and my patience is kind of limited, too many details Gino

I use Hobbylinc and balsawoodinc Gino

I buy Devcon 2- Ton from Tower Hobby, 9 oz. kit for 12.79, I buy 4 kits at the time to save on shipping cost I started building musky baits about 3 years ago and the first thing I built was a bait turner, fairly cheap and easy to do. Do search here on T.U. and you will find several tutorials on the bait turner, mine is there too can turn 8 baits at the time Gino

I have been building balsa baits and using Propionate first coat very thin and dipped for 4 hours in order to strengthen the balsa wood, due to these baits are made for musky fishing. I have ben happy with the results, but wondering if Aero Gloss would make the balsa a little stronger . As anyone here used this product? Just wondering, always looking for something better spoonpluggergino

I endorse the syringes from Flex Coat either from Mud Hole or Jan Netcraft, plus the tips fit inside the Devcon 2-ton little vials. I cleaned the vials with denatured alcohol and filled them with e-tex for easy filling of the syringe no-fuss no-mess Gino

Thank You every one. I used pearl white with very small amount of black worked perfectly Thank You Gino

Any suggestion how to get a SMOKE paint recipe, I was thinking Black with some Grey or maybe White Gino

I really like my band saw Gino

Another good place to get parts would be Lure Parts On Line, also a pair of electrician lineman pliers are better to twist the wire than the long nose pliers due to the wide jaws, that is what I use Gino

I am an avid musky hunter and I own many globe style baits, including Frenchie La May Globes. I never built any globe type of baits, but I have build double ten bucktails. You need to use stainless harden or spring type wire .062 dia. . To make sure I measured the wire on the Globe and it is .062 Dia. Hard steel. In between the section they use sleeves and in the front they use small cup washer before the wire tie loop, something to prevent ware on the sections. You will not have any problem making the line tie loop. Round nose pliers, to make the loop Good vise grip to hold the loop and heavy long nose pliers to twist the wire. Practice on some wire before you attempt the actual shaft bend. I would most likely form the front loop first, on bucktails I do it the other way the tail end first. Hopefully this will help. You can purchase all you need from Moore's supply or Rollie and Helen Musky Shop Gino

I build musky lure and when I use hardwood baits I predrill 1/16 holes. When using softer wood I use hardwood dowel pins and I epoxy the dowel pins in the bait, works great. I also have a tutorial on to do the hardwood dowel pin system Gino

I had that problem with one of my netting material, by accident I found that by waiting to the next day the paint is really hard and when you go to do the netting works really great. That is good if you are not in a hurry Gino