spoonpluggergino

It got to a point that I hated to paint , now I can' wait to paint a new bait. I love it. I am glad I posed this, I was not the only one Gino

Thanks good to know

For a long time I went through all kinds of problems with my brushes clogging up all the time. I have been using in the past Illustrator base and transparent base they worked some what but always plugged my brush. as of a week ago I started using auto air 4011 flash reducer and W100 Wicked reducer. The results are unbelievable, the paint looks smooth and shiny, and most of all the time to paint the bait is cut down drastically, and no more clogs. Note this problem was mostly for Createx paint I use other brands that are much thinner than Createx and had no problem with other brands. Hopefully this will save you some problems to the beginners Gino

Hey Ben You are exactly right it has tiny flakes. My Paasche nozzle has .55mm orifice and I can get it to work with some work. The label instruction says that I can reduce it with illustrator base 5608, that does not work. I also reduced it heavily with 4011 flash reducer same results. I contacted the Createx corporation, if I get a response I will post their answer Thanks every one Gino

Thanks Mike I found the group, but I cannot figure out where to post my question on that forum Gino

I am wondering if anyone on this forum has used Createx Pearl Lime Ice. I cannot shoot this particular paint through any of my brushes except for my Paasche brush and also that I have problems. I can shoot all kinds of pearlized paints except for the lime one, no matter how much I reduce it. I am just going to find another brand, I need it due to I paint my perch baits with it just wondering not a big deal Gino

I see that you have air bubble problems using D2T, I realize that this may be off subject. I found out the hard way took me about a 1.5 years was driving me crazy after painting and using either D2T or E-Tex bubbles would come up, not every time, but enough that I was loosing interest in building baits and loosing sleep over What I found is that I needed to do a better job on sealing the bait. After hours of searching the net I found the salt water guys are using Deft sanding sealer and I use 4 coats to make sure the bait is totally sealed. I also use Propionate, I do the thin coat but at least 7 or 8 thin coats. Both of these sealer work great no more bubbles. Another thing that I do after I paint the bait I will wait at least a full day before I clear coat the bait. I do not even exhale on the bait or use warm air, I brush on either the D2T thinned or E-Tex. No more bubbles coming through Gino

Sorry Guys, I found the CA by DuPont, thanks to Ben He had posted what I was looking for. When I done my search I was not in the hard bait forum Gino

I have tried using auto clear by ACME Product, Finish 1 FC720. I only used it one time this last summer. I used a cheap Harbor Freight air brush to spray the bait. The brush worked great, I did thin out the auto clear with paint thinner, so I could use the air brush. I was not impressed by this particular AC, but maybe needed additional coats of auto clear. I really want to get away from using E-Tex, it's a pain I have done a search but I cannot find a brand name on Auto Clear that bait builders are using, I seem to remember someone using AC from DuPont but I do not know what specific product that was. If someone here is using an auto clear that works good please let me know, I would greatly appreciated Thanks In advance Gino

Reelentleess Go to Member Submitted Tutorials, do a search using this keewoord and it will come up "vacuum box" was posted Sept 30 20011 Gino

I use the PETG material .020 x 24" x 48" sheets due to I make large muskie lures, My vaccuum box is large 1 foot square. I block part of the opening with sheet metal blanks, I lay the bait right on the perforated surface. I use a heat gun that is made for paint remover or tiles, generates high heat and it works great. I heat the plastic all around and top of the bait before I turn on the large shop vac and it forms great around the bait, Hopefully this helps Gino

Rapala Shad Raps big time waleye lure on Mille Lacs, any minnow type bait will get the job done

Go to this website and go to How to Guide, there is a section on How to seal wooden baits using propionate http://www.tacklemaking.com/ Gino

I have no intention on HIGHJACKING this thread, but I do Have a stupid question and a comment Even dough the screw seals the hole in the can, every time fluid is poured out of the can that amount will all ways be replaced with air otherwise a vacuum will be formed at the top of the can I would love to use this topcoat and deep the baits in the can As anyone tried to put a fitting on the lid of the can and every time the lid is opened to dip the baits, put the lid back and pull a vacuum at the fitting to get all the air out of the top of the can. I am sure a cheap vacuum pump could be found or made Or is the amount of time that the can is left open would be enough to ruin the topcoat, even if the air is pulled out of the can spoonpluggergino

Thank you for all your help fellow bait builders, I really apreciated Gino

I have problem on both PVC and Wood. I do not use a sanding block, I will have to make a tiny one Thanks S54

When I use epoxy to fill holes and than after the epoxy is cured I allways have problem to sand down where when you paint the bait you will not see a bump. I use a dremel tool with a sand paper drum wheel to smood out the cured epoxy bump and than hand sanding with 150 grit and final 400 grit sand paper. I gues I am afraid that I may go too deep with the dremel and than end up with divits. Need some help thanks Gino

Thanks Guys, I ordered some PETG 4 by 4 sheet from e-bay Gino

I made a Vaccuum box to make stencils fro my Bombers, but I am having problem finding the right clear plastic. What I used so far. First I had a sheet of plastic from an old binder that worked great.it's about .007", but that was the only sheet i could find. I went to Office Depot and tried their clear binder clear plastic, to thin. I tried .010" stencil material I get to many rinkles, hard to work with. Is there special clear plastic sheets that work better than others??? Thanks Gino

I also get my wire from McMaster Carr. Matt finish is fine , but make sure you get the spring back type of wire Gino