CarverGLX

Mine is about the same 12”. The gravitational pull causing sagging would only effected by rpm not wheel diameter though. It still takes the same amount of time for a lure to go from up to down regardless of linear speed and a bigger/smaller wheel.

It works ok but it seems like the finish over a batch of lures has more issues than with the 6 rpm rod turner motor I had before that wouldn’t last. Maybe from the brief stops and adding more baits allowing time to sag? Same process with the 6rpm motor as the current 4rpm. Also, I have the same issues of baits flopping on hooks as it goes around I’ve always had only using rubber bands. A more secure connection is needed. Alligator clip or hobby handle looking best currently without constantly bending wire. Thinking of scrapping the whole thing I have and starting from scratch with the spoke idea from above Travis posted. Flexcoat has a lure Turner that uses foam disks to hold hobby knife handles that looks like it may be a better system. Better hold with hobby handle, easier insertion, tension held handles in foam. Haven’t tried the wood center spoke method but thinking the foam may be an easier system than the wood center with holes especially as it wound be aluminum/wood connection with hobby handles instead of wood/wood connection and friction with a wood center. No 5 second stops. Jab it in there as it turns. But $150 for this is insane. Can build something with much higher capacity, better motor and much cheaper. Hobby handles would be the biggest expense and the issue of sourcing the foam. What I eventually want is to build a working system and house it in a cabinet to run away from dust, maybe 48 baits or so. Maybe add lightbulb for heat/light and leave in garage. Just a lot of money to invest in handles, cabinet, time, whatnot to get it going correctly.

After trying the new grill rotisserie motor I am very happy with the torque. However the speed is slower than I had previously and the result is suffering. Think the new Motor is around 4 rpm. Old was 6. Thinking of a modification using 2 pulleys and a belt but think that may be hard to source parts and keep proper tension.

Rotisserie rod for charbroil Turner is somewhere between 3/8 and 7/16”. Used 3/8” ID bearing refusing to go back.

That doesn’t sound too bad though. I’ve just had bad alligator clips in the past. May try that again with better clips.

Really like the look of that. How well do the alligator clips hold? Was thinking very similar setup with xacto knife handles maybe by attaching a short bolt to the back of them to attach to a nut on the rotisserie stock. not sure how cumbersome that may be screwing in though. Friction fit of dowel may be better.

So... after years of use I’m redoing a lure Turner. The one I currently have will do 24 baits using rubber bands and hooks to hold the lures and uses a rod drying motor. This presents some issues. 1-The motor is not beefy enough and eventually wears out. (Getting rotisserie motor but looking for model recommendations) 2-rubber bands can break when the get old and require constant checking. (Would like a different method of holding the baits that allows for sure grasping of the hook hanger. There isn’t always a lip available. Exacto knife handles? Bulk source?) 3-24 baits is nice but 48 would be better. (Going bigger for round 3 as the wheel size is always the hang up when doing lures) Which motor is best and ideas for methods of reliably holding hook hangers?

Hypothesis: If the evolution of various forms of life which Vodkaman talks of results in the creation of “false eyes” or mimicry which a predictor would not consider a meal, these species are more successful at longevity, passing on genetics, and not becoming eaten. Therefore, would it not be best to design a bait that did not have eyes and is more likely in an instance to be eaten. Or, would the bait have already gone the way of the dodo because no angler would buy it and the maker himself starved?

I got some to try. Thank You

Anybody aware of a source for Venture Brite-Bak foil tape or a similar high reflection 1-2 mil tape?

Thank You both for the replies.

For those of you that do throughwire on small cranks, how do you keep dipable topcoat or epoxy off the eyes/hangers? Thought maybe an oil based film or petroleum jelly but don’t want that anywhere near epoxy for the same reasons.

Thank You for the reply. That’s great info.

Getting ready to paint a Hinkle Shad glidebait. What is the best way to clear afterward? Pretty comfortable with epoxy and use E-Tex quite a bit but a little concerned about the joint. Does the bait come apart easily? Just brush on and be careful as it won’t run too much? Also, ideas for a pattern. Going with a Shad pattern but looking for ideas about doing a super job. Holographic mist coats? Special paint? Maybe foil it?

Football heads work fine for finesse jigs. I make them all the time. In fact almost any jig will work as a finesse jig. Finesse (to me) is more of of a profile or cut of the skirt than the jig itself. Some people would claim that a light weight head makes a finesse jig but that is not nescessarily the case, although not in itself untrue. Pick a jig that suits your needs and make a finesse jig out of it.

I've bent many hooks after heating without a single failure to date... Even forged hooks. The usual need arises when needing to make a 90 into a 60, a 60 into a 30 and so on. I mearly use a lighter and count as I heat. A torch would be faster but I haven't seen the need. The hook is not cherry red when bent, it doesn't even change color. All hooks are heated when making jigs by the lead that is poured around them. Although the mold is a large heat sink, and the hook doesn't get as hot as mentioned here. Who here has never reused a hook after a bad pour by melting the partial pour off in the pot? I bet that hook got hot don't you? You can bend them with pliers or a device like a little blue bender. If you don't get them hot enough they will break while bending. You must quickly bend after heating to avoid breakage while by the quick cooling and heat sink effect of whatever bending device you choose. Once a hook is molded into lead the exposed part of the hook will be your weak link, not the covered portion. I've even used to separate peices of broken hook molded within a head before to test a design. The ends of the pieces were heated an given a small bend to keep them in place. While I don't recommend this for regular use because they will loosen it did work. Do not use a quenching fluid after bending. This will harden the material and make it brittle and therefore easier to break. While this site is very informative I think sometimes we look for perfection in things to a fault. Heat it, bend it, forget it. I bet the 0.016" plastic line fails before the 0.045" steel hook encased in lead does... And if the hook fails, it won't be where it was heated. It will fail at the exposed bend where the leverage can be applied, and fail while BEING bent.

Thanks

It seems like I remember a discount code being posted quite a while back for first time orders by TU members to lure parts online? I can't find any old thread with it though... Anybody remember anything like that?

No but that would be a much cheaper option. Thanks for the idea. Follow up. Bleach, at least in the short run I have tried it, doesn't work. I have noticed no change. It seems the living rubber is dyed then extruded and a consistent color throughout... Should have noticed the tips. Bleach doesn't penetrate (polar/non polar medium/lack of solvent) no effect.

How do you fade living rubber? It fades on it's own with prolonged UV exposure but I'm looking for something faster. No, I don't know anyone with a tanning bed. Haha. Bleach? Bleach may dry it out but not a big deal as they are just for me.

Put your hook into the mold. Place wire keeper where you want it. Carefully close mold and hold tension on it. Hit mold with hammer. Done. Perfect fit.

Has anyone tried a few of the different casting resins and foams to the point of knowing a rough density? The literature included with them may tell but I doubt it. Im wanting to start pouring some hard swimbaits but want an idea of the different resins or foams available with respect to density. I realize that additives can be used to modify this but wanting a basic starting point and range.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I ended up getting some from luremaking.com due to only needing 100. Thanks again.

Looking for the small size used on alabama rig arms. Preferably in black. The store listed above is closed until the 5th.... Still looking.

Thanks for the reply. That's the best I've seen so far.