CarverGLX

Does anyone have a cheap source for this type of swivel/sleeve combination? : These are the swivels that many use to attach blades to the arms of A-rigs. The prices are pretty crazy it seems though and I may just stick to my stirrup clevis and standard sleeve system if I can't find these reasonably. Ive seen them called swivel sleeves, bran swivels, drop swivels....

Holds 24 lures. They attach with hooks and rubber bands.

Thank you. That looks like what I need. Darkman, I just assumed someone would suggest mother of pearl lure tape.

Very nice.

I've not really found exactly what I'm looking for yet. I want a pattern similar to a megabait live jig. I get tired of busting off $5-6 for something I could likely make for a whole lot less. I would call it oil slick or abalone. http://extremelures.com/megabait-live-jig-holographic-solidmetal-spoon.aspx and another look.... It looks similar to the chrome seen on lucky craft lures. It has sort of a a random swirl pattern. http://www.tackletour.com/autopsyluckycraftpointer.html Some other patterns as seen on luna jigs would be fine as well http://www.tackletour.com/reviewicast10lureslunabait.html I had originally thought that I would be interested in getting the holograms in "sleeves" that seem to be offered by about all the companies. These could be cut to length and shrunk cutting off the excess. This may limit the uses I have for these though as they likely would have to be certain size.... or maybe they could be sealed to size before shrinking. Sheets would likely work as well. What I have found so far seems to be either: -goofy patterns like hearts -clear heat shrink with a narrow band of hologram used for security/counterfeit purposes -tape that would be too thick and kill the action and look of the lure -custom order and very large quantities The hologram seems to be the outermost coating with no clearcoat overtop... http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/megabait-finish-wears-off.548438/ So... I'm assuming it is a transparent heat shrink hologram over a foiled bait? I don't want to go into production but would like the option of making something similar for myself. I might even try using it on balsa lures or jigheads as well.

I've not really found exactly what I'm looking for yet. I want a pattern similar to a megabait live jig. I get tired of busting off $5-6 for something I could likely make for a whole lot less. I would call it oil slick or abalone. http://extremelures.com/megabait-live-jig-holographic-solidmetal-spoon.aspx It looks similar to the chrome seen on lucky craft lures. It has sort of a a random swirl pattern. http://www.tackletour.com/autopsyluckycraftpointer.html Some other patterns as seen on luna jigs would be fine as well http://www.tackletour.com/reviewicast10lureslunabait.html I had originally thought that I would be interested in getting the holograms in "sleeves" that seem to be offered by about all the companies. These could be cut to length and shrunk cutting off the excess. This may limit the uses I have for these though as they likely would have to be certain size.... or maybe they could be sealed to size before shrinking. Sheets would likely work as well. What I have found so far seems to be either: -goofy patterns like hearts -clear heat shrink with a narrow band of hologram used for security/counterfeit purposes -tape that would be too thick and kill the action and look of the lure -custom order and very large quantities The hologram seems to be the outermost coating with no clearcoat overtop... http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/megabait-finish-wears-off.548438/ So... I'm assuming it is a transparent heat shrink hologram over a foiled bait? I don't want to go into production but would like the option of making something similar for myself. I might even try using it on balsa lures or jigheads as well.

Anyone?

(((For you to figure out about these Aussie lure versions of mine , ...here are links to my gallery : http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/9843-chalk-painted-deep-diver/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/9844-mottled-finishes/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/10152-latest-pvc-grubs/ Maybe worth a shot for American bass , .....dunno , ........at least these lures cast very well and can be made to run very deep(that lip size in my gallery picture never is the final size limit , I suppose) . Just my , .....good luck , diemai I like that. Reminds me of a Bagley's smoo. Great walleye bait.

I think it has headed in that direction because you asked what everyone uses to go deep. Not many build the deep baits because they are just harder to do in general. I have made TAPPs that will run 10ft but haven't attempted anything that goes deeper... It's coming though. As far as semi-custom there are Brian's Bees and older Lohr's lures floating around that will bust that mark easily. As for question #2 about the setup... Breaking 10 feet isn't that big of a feat with about any setup and the right lure. 20 feet is a whole different ballgame. To achieve max depth you need to make the longest cast you can, with the deepest running lure, and the smallest diameter line. That means use the longest rod (usually 8' max in tournaments), longest casting reel, and small diameter fluorocarbon you can safely get away with. Superlines are of course smaller than fluoro but float negating depth. Fireline is nearly neutral in buoyancy. Fluoro sinks. When building a lure for this I would avoid balsa. It simply doesn't have the durability needed. Not to say it can't or hasn't been done but there are better choices for this paticular application. The amount of weight needed for ballast and the position of weighting needed will make the lure more awkward to cast than a heavier material.... Unless you can create a weight transfer system. Production baits that have this system allow you to cast farther which is basically the name of the game when achieving depth. Combine this with the cost difference of production and custom lures and it is easy to understand why they are more popular. Is it a waste of time? Of course not. This is what we do. Custom and homemade baits do catch fish and at times out fish production baits. In this particular instance though the advantage may be less, the work more, and the demand for condistsncy lure to lure higher.

Forgot photos....

Search online for irreidescent lure eyes. They should be a close match. You can also make your own by making molds and using epoxy. After molding a clear domed eye attach mother of pearl (or your choice) of tape to the back to show through the clear. Either should give that "white mirror" effect but the irridescent eyes are a much simpler option. Good luck.

I've seen those before. While the concept of making the arm longer to create more vibration does make sense in theory... Why not just use thinner wire/more flexible material, like cable, if that is your concern? You could even bend the wire into a coil past the line tie forming a spring to get more vibration if you wanted. A longer wire does equal more flex but I'm just not a fan of how that is done with this bait. I'm calling gimmick with a margin of truth in concept. It just doesn't look very clean and never could get past that.

Has anyone had any experience with heat shrink wrapping a lure? I have been considering buying some hologram tubes to shrink, paint, and epoxy over but can't determine if this will work or exactly what to buy....

http://www.bbcboards.net/general-bassboat-topics/50313-need-help-color-wiggle-wart.html Post #4

Thanks BobP.

Anybody performed an autopsy on a Mann's 30+ or 20+? I was wondering if there are any chambers in the bait without having to sacrifice one. Maybe somebody has a transparent one?

It's going to depend on your heat source. I usually heat the wires after doing the main head color. I use a lighter for both. If you use a heat gun you should be able to heat both the wires and head at the same time. I pour some powder into the lid of the container to the depth I want coated and swish. When doing 100's it may not be the most practical. The wire does heat pretty fast in the color change of the flame though. I'm assuming you pre cut your wires to length before molding them. You might try tipping several wires at once before molding. Any odd coating "hairs" that string out when separating will disappear on curing. It doesn't matter when you coat the wires as long as you do so before curing in the oven. As for the d2t.... I don't know how that would work out if done before curing but could of course be done after. It seems like it may create more of a "ball" effect on the ends of the wires if you didn't thin it out a great deal. You might try it though or a thinner epoxy. It's all just what comes as being easiest for you.

Something else you might try is dipping the tips of the I coated wire in clear powder paint. This works very well to keep them from fraying. If done properly you can't even tell it's there when it cures.

Thanks sunkist. I may give something similar a shot.

Thanks BobP, Good tip on the torch. I'm not necessarily interested in making exactly what he made but thought the concept was pretty neat. Maybe putting a thug bill on a DT10 or vice versa, DT flat bill on a DT6, Risto bill on a shad rap..... lots of possibilities. You may be right on using the same bill cut shorter. That would definitely be easier to explain and accomplish. I was going on something written long ago on that. I was just thinking if the bills could be easily removed then it would be possible to make many different lures within the same brand along with using lips that I make as well. Cutting them off and putting something back wouldnt be too hard but if they would just come out it would be way better.

I see these Calvin Johnson baits show up from time to time. Mostly they are risto raps with the next size risto rap bill. Example: a #5 is modified to have a #7 bill and so on. He also puts loud rattles in them. Looking at the modifications it got me to wondering how he was removing the bill? I imaging some kind of solvent to dissolve the glue but does anyone know what that solvent is? Maybe what kind of glue is used on rapala lips? Thinking about doing some modifications of my own.

Glad to help.

That was my intent, yes.

Review of Predator DRS Wiggle Wart : Before I start this I would like to say that I am in no way affiliated with Predator Baits. This review is to provide information to those considering buying some of these lures. In your own review, if you choose to post one, please be respectful as this is a person's business. If you don't have something nice to say then take it up with the company first before you start bashing. My review is my honest opinion and I feel that Predator Bait's will likely have no problem with what I am about to say so I feel that it is appropriate to post. OK. Here is what I got. I like many of you ordered these baits in response to this thread, and seeing the work and attention to detail that went into them. I am a wart nut so I thought I would give it a shot. I normally don't try knockoffs as I have had some real duds in the past. I have never ordered from Predator before. I received my order very quickly. First impressions: -It's definitely a wiggle wart. -Bait is smooth without defects -Bait has a slight blue tint not unlike a cd case. It's still very clear with the slightest hint of blue. -Seam of bait appear to be sanded. This will come out in clear and was well done. Nice attention to this by the way. -There are minor bubbles to the sides of the weight placement holders. -There are two weights in the lure. Like the original. Initially I thought the rear weight was glued off center but with tapping discovered it moved as well as the front one within the slot. -The rattle appears slightly louder than my other pre-rap warts. This is not to be unexpected though as the old warts have had time to oxidize and soften the sound. It is only a slight difference and not necessarily a bad thing. ..... Overall initial impressions are very good and I am impressed with what these are. Now on to action..... Creek test: That's right... creek. I'm currently attending school and the only thing around is a creek. I went to a hole in the creek that was about 5 feet deep to try to get some impression of depth. The only hooks and hardware that would seem suitable for the test would be those straight from an old wart.... so that's what I did. The only wart I have with me is a suspending model so I didn't do a float time test as I saw it as irrelevant between the models. I took 3 of the Predator warts with me to test as any bait will vary and I wanted as fair a test as possible. These lures are as of yet still unpainted or cleared. Test was conducted on 7 lb sunline as it was what was on my rod I have with me to fish this creek. -Of the 3 lures I tested I only had to really tune one. The other two required very minor tuning. After tuning they all ran straight.... maybe I shouldn't say straight.... "wart straight" would be better. They track true but do possess the hunting action that we have all been looking for. Very impressed Predator . -As for diving depth I couldn't get a true test due to my location and available depth. I did hit at lest 4 feet as the opposite side of the creek is the deepest. This depth was achieved rather quickly though and I feel that it is pretty much on par with what I would expect from a wart. As an estimate I would guess that this would go around 8 feet and maybe deeper given the room to cast and location. -The action is unmistakeably "wart". The cadence, wideness of wiggle, deflection..... -As a guess I would say the lure is only very little more buoyant. This is a total guess from memory though and as these lures aren't painted yet I'm sure will change. ..... I'll have to say this is much better than what I thought it would be. I cannot find fault in it. Very nicely done. Overall comments: -Just go get some. It's has its own minor differences when compared to the originals in my opinion but so do the original warts to each other. This bait is known to be inconsistent, and is by and large a big part of its charm and appeal. The baits I received from Predator are consistent from one to the next. Predator Baits has obviously done their homework and I for one am very pleased with the results. I hope everyone's experiences are as positive as what I've seen. I still would like to be able to test them out in a lake where I could get a better idea on the depth side by side with a standard pre-rapala wart but my gut feeling is they nailed it... at least to me. Now we just have to ask the fish . In short... If you don't want to spend ridiculous amounts of money on little pieces of plastic then this is a GREAT alternative. With a little more testing and fish confirmation I may have went on my last eBay binge on these . It's nice to see a company that has passion for what they put out instead of just turning out something. Very good job Predator and you have a repeat customer