kyratchethead

The scrapbook edgers/scissors I use are Fiskar brand, and some are generic onesI pick up at Michaels and other Craft Supply stores. Look all of them over - I found a pair that makes a zig-zag pattern that I'm going to try as wing pads on nymph patterns for 2012. I'll try to post some photos as soon as i get around to trying it out.

I'm probably going to op out for the butane torch route. I did get the two ingots cut apart today, so's I'll probably set them one at a time on an ingot mold or mini muffin pan and melt them into whatever and then go from there. I just want to get these BEHEMOTHS down into a workable size. 'Tanks 'fer all the feedback!

I'm not so sure about either of these - these are TWO BIG HONKING 5 POUND INGOTS of lead. The only reason I took them were that they were free - the guy was going to trash them so I took them.

What's the best way to cut lead? I got two 8 pound + ingots from a retired plummer today but both are WAY TOO BIG to fit in my Lee IV Pot to melt! Any reccomendations appreciated!

I checked with a local plumming supply house today and they sell a 10 pound box of lead for $10.00, which appears to be a GOOD PRICE based on prices I have seen on Internet sites. Cheapest price I had seen online was $2.60 per pound plus shipping. I am avoiding any wheel weight lead as it's just too nasty even after being fluxed several times - too much junk to be skimmed and it usuallu stops the pot up too. So what's the lowest price y'all have ran across lately?

I got the new Lee production Pot IV in the mail today - not bad with only a 7 day turn around after mailing in the old pot last week. I can't wait to fire this new dude up, which probably won't be until after my low back surgery next week!

I agree with what's been said above - I use a Lee Pot but have heard others who use other brands make the same comment that they all leak a little when warming up with cold lead in the pot. I always put an old square cake pan under my pot's spout to catch any drips that occur when it's warming up or when I'm casting as well. Any drips/spills can be tossed back into the pot to be remelted, and it's better to be safe than sorry!

I recieved an email from Lee Precision today that my new replacement pot was being sent out today by USPS Priority Mail, so hopefully I'll have it in a couple of days. I can't wait!!

Looks like we wire twisters is an endangered species!

If you know where there's a lake or pond with a bunch of bid 'ole bluegills in it, throw something like this out in the water on an ultralight spinning rod and reel and see what happens!

Bless Me Father, for I have sinned....at least in the eyes of some fly fishers! First off, let me start by saying that I love tying my own fishing flies and fly fishing. My problem is that I just can't get the hang of casting a fly rod! Everytime I go fly fishing with a fly rod, I can almost bet that I'm going to bury a fly in my ear. For years, I have used an ultralight or light spinning rod to flyfish with. I usually use a clear plastic bubble 18 inches or so up the line from the fly and this method does catch fish! But I have been cursed and even threatened with bodily harm by other fly fishers when they see me doing this! One fly fisher even called a Game Warden on me in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park for fishing this way. The Game Warden finally agreed with me that I was doing nothing illegal - regs stated that fly fishing with only a single hook fly was acceptable, which was what I was doing. I started using a wire spinner for fly fishing several years ago and have had great luck with this method, especially in lakes and ponds. Here is a homemade DIY wire spinner form for fly fishing with a spinning outfit. You can buy these commercially made but those have a shaft that's a bit too long for my tastes. Plus if you make you own you can add a bead, as shown in the photo, for some additional flash to get the fish's attention. These are simple to make : 1. Start by forming an eye on a 3-1/2" or 4" peice of .026 wire. 2. Add your hardware - beads, clevis and blade, and your choice of colored bead. 3. 1/2" from the end of your colored bead, form a regular spinning closure with a hook snap. I usually make about six of these at a time with Nickle, Brass, and Copper blades. These are cheap enough to make that you can cast back in the stickups and not have to worry about loosing the rig. The hook snap allows you to change out flies easily too. I f you need extra weight to cast, put 1 or 2 removable split shot about 18" in front of the rig. If you are interested in giving fly fishing with a spinning outfit a try, I highly recommend Fly and Bubble Fishing Techniques by Allen Druke as a reading source. Even though I have fly fished with a spinning outfit for years, I did learns several new tricks when I read this book!

The second cup with vacumn cleaner bag bottom was a flop too - got only three holes that spewed the Powder Paint all over everything no matter how low the air valve was turned on. Since I got to get ready for back surgery next week, this project is now on hold - or possibly scraped all together. Does how much Powder Paint you put in the cup got anything to do with it?

You fellers convinced me to give it a second shot. I've got some vacumn cleaner bag material curing on the first cup I made, so we's will see how she does this go around!

I just talked to Lee Precision this morning and they advised me to send in the old melter for a new one at half-price! So the old one's packed up and ready to go back. I'm getting the new Lee Production Pot IV that holds 10 pounds of lead - I don't have much room and 10 pounds is more than enough for me at a time. You can contact Lee Precision at : 262-673-3075. Their address is : Lee Precision Inc. 4275 Highway U Hartford, WI 53027