toadfrog

I always used Bait Plastics medium. Didn't care much for floating additives so I just got the floating plastic. I've used everything from mica powders to dyes . Didn't matter that much to me but I made sure it didn't bleed . Check that bleeding potential before you buy colorant. Real disappointment when you have a bag of baits come out like a cheap flannel shirt.

I've tried all kinds of stuff. But avoid an action that will infuse a lot of air into the plastic . If the air is badly infused the plastic will have micro bubbles in the lure and it won't stand reheating as well .

Sometime ago I bought some junk at an auction . It had a rock tumbler base but nothing else . The base ran fine . So I transferred my plastic to a gallon glass jar . Then placed it on the tumbler . Goofed off a while, came back in about 30 minutes (probably longer than I needed) and it was mixed nicely .

With any spinner bait that has a collar there will be the occasional miss pour around the ball. The C is no exception. Hard lead makes for more misfires . I prefer to use a bullet ladle with the spout on the side. I stick the spout flush inside the gate and turn the mold and ladle vertical together. If you are using a bottom pour pot sink the spout in the gate. As far as the way they run in the water , it's best if you tune the wire by looking down the back and giving the wire slight twists until the arm is in alignment with your hook point. The rest will depend on what blade or blades you put on it. I prefer deep cup Colorado blades with a ball bearing swivel . But experimentation is the spice of life .

Generally use Eagle claw hooks for myself . No. 4 0n plastics and 6 on ties . Generally gold or little nasty black platinum. Victory hooks will work for crappie and such too. No need to invest in expensive hooks for delicate fish.

Thanks aulrich . It's made from miscellaneous parts even a cog from an old clock stuck in the bottom above the hook. My version of a clicker . Caught a couple fisherman with one of those.

The thing about inline spinners is you have a world of items to use for bodies . That is if your not anal retentive about exact weights, As you can see in the picture this lure is made from plastic bead to worm weight and shrink tube. Think outside the box . Free your mind up to a world of possibilities. In so doing you might just save yourself some money.

Getting action from that type of material is tough s you know. Either put something like a piece of surgical tube under it to push it out or cut it extra long and tie it with the long part towards the top . That way when you hold it by the eye it falls back and makes it's own natural flare.

I was thinking if someone tries to stack a Colorado style blade it might be effective only if it was a deep cup blade. The operative word is might. I've made inlines for a long time but I never had a need to use one with double blades .

OTSISMI is correct . There is a double clevis designed for running 2 blades. I've been out of the business so long I can't remember who makes it. But it would be Hagen's or Lakeland I think.

Have you got a pic of one made up . When you cast it do you just start reeling when it hits the water? Because if you do a lot of in lines don't get going by doing that . As it sinks pop the rod tip . This causes the blade to move farther from the shaft. Then real quickly . You should feel resistance as the blade spins. After that you can slow your retrieve to the desired speed and the blade should continue to spin.

I use folded clevises only on inline spinners . If you put a bead above the clevis it can be plastic . Below the clevis I use a metal bead to act as a bearing . The metal won't wear and hang like a plastic one can . Part of your lure body spin can come from restriction on the blade being able to turn.

I have no words for such a great loss.

Make sure you secure that wire before you try to smooth the tag end. I let one get away from me and it went into my hand. Stayed sore for a month.