toadfrog

If I had know back when how many were going to go into tackle craft . I'd have never made a lure . I'd just get warehouses full of stuff to do it with and ship it out . Think of all the stuff that hasn't changed over the years . Wires blades ect . !950 prices sold at 2013 . Yo Money . LOL

YES it was another night mare jsc ! ARRRG got to lay off those knarly chilli dogs . LOL The goal was to make more complete pours on hard to pour molds . I just thought I'd bounce it off every body to see what they thought . So far I think I better look for a nice lake to jump into . I do understand the danger but I'm known for going full steam ahead till I'm dead . I also do big stuff but nothing that weighs over a pound and anything like that needs to be ladled anyway It's just easier for me . The only pressure system I know of uses an auger type system that pushes the molten lead through a die assembly and onto the product . Once the auger stops the lead pressure drops Almost immediately . Talking some real live expense with something like that. I've even considered that since a system like that is not gravity feed it would not have to be vertical but horizontal which has implecations in itself . Like loading a mold . The size and no of cavities that would be possible . All in all centrifugal casting still got it beat .

I haven't had time to really think this through so I'm throwing this out for pro's and con's . Lead melting , lead pots ect . have often been the topic of conversation . Once in a while somebody mentions pressureized lead injection . I have mulled this over a little but I'm so strapped for time I haven't been able to put theroy to fact . I was thinking might be possible to make an economical lead injection this way . Take a machined cylinder that will have an I.D. to match a piston . Create a manual arm that can move the piston up and down in the cylinder . The arm should be able to raise the piston completely out of the cylinder for lead loading . Create a slide bar gate valve and end cap that is screwed on to the cylinder for access and cleaning . This unit could possibly be heated by digitally controlled bands rather than an element . Also the slide bar would need a heating element . Once assembled pressure could be applied to the lead before opening the gate to the mold by the arm handle . I also realize that automated means could be applied if the lead can't pass the piston rings . Like I said this is just a nutty Idea if anybody wants to chime in here please feel free . Or just tell me to go jump in the lake .

Rats was hoping it was not classified .

I can't even invision what it looks like or the degree of technology behind equipment like that . Still doing it the caveman way here . Gonna give us a peek there ole buddy .

Here ya go .The Perfect Replica Mold

They will fish good as anything . Fish are biting or not . almost simple as that . Ya did good . Now go get'em !

Take a small torch . Heat the bend point . once you bend it drop the hot hook in to a can of 90 weight oil . Have I done . Yes will it blow up . Never had a problem . There will be a whisp of smoke occasionally a tiny flame if you got the hook cherry hot . Which you don't need to do . You just need to weaken the temper enough to bend it . The reason you drop it in the oil is to reset the temper and protect the heat point .

Lurre Craft hand pours , Got a 9'' swim cost 50 bucks + also Bass Tackle has some pretty big injectables .

Shoot the whole lure if you have a mold already . Cut off the head . Put the body back . shoot it again with some plastic that has a lot of hardner . Do this quick as you can so there is not much cure time . Makes for a better bond . It won't matter if the weight is inside or out as long as the bait is balanced for the retrieve .

Holy Jehosaphat . I can only dread of doing a job that good . Just as another one of my twisted brain Ideas but I have used Wriggle's gum wrapers for head wraps . Don't know if there are any gum types that are flashier . out there . This is just one of the things I never did post cause i figured they would say go jump in the pond .

I think it is direct from somebodies work shop or kitchen . Might look into manual pasta cutters . If it exists for sale I bet you can get it out of Itally . LOL

Amen brother !!!!

I use everything from wire mesh to garage sale items like netted gym bags . Cut out the net throw the rest away . Have even unwound those girly sponge looking things used in the shower .

If I could get my book back from the jerk that borrowed it 3 yrs ago . I'd show you a buzz frog made a really really long time ago . The book is is called Great North American Fishing Tackle Catologs . It dates back to 1800 thru a about mid 1900 . Very cool pics some even of the set ups in the Orvis factory . (I think ) Lots of other great stuff .

Odo-Ban works on my tennis shoes . LOL Just messing with ya no harm intened . Plastic is going to stink to some degree no matter what . Guess I give away a little of what I know helps and only helps . WD 40 yep that is what I said . One two drops per bag . No more . It can change the color of the baits . Any organic scented oil made from the real critter . I prefer Menhaden oil . Now this is just my nickle and dime here there are a thousand beliefs on the subject . Check me out on this . Drop a hand full of dug worms in a glass jar . sit it in the hot sun . Won't be long until they look like shoe string patatoe chips . Oil will collect in the jar . Use that for scent in the bag . Don't cook it in and be prepared if your baits hang around to long cause the next time you open the bag ya just might feel the need to up chuck .

Might not be so bad after the cops and neighbors figure out you really aren't making crank .

Yes you can mix to get chat . But it won't be the transparent chart . For that you would need Glass clear and the mica colorant . Takes a little tinkering . If you want the floresent banana color of yellow chart then mix the flo yellow with a touch of flo chart to taste . Kinda ike salt and pepper .

May I promote LOve Peace and the hope nobody gets the crabs !

There different cure times for the colors of powder . If you follow the reccomended cure time the baits will turn out better . I use what I call graduated heat increments . GHI I preheat the oven to at least 100 degrees . If the color says 10 min to cure I increase the heat buy 100 degrees every ten minute until I reach the reccomended temp . then leave it at that temp for the recomended time . The powder will have to be removed with a grinder . So clean anything like line ties and such beforehand or you'll regret it . Do Not cool the product in water let them reach room temp on their own . I only do this for saltwater applications I also epoxy afterwards .

Since they have purchased CCM which strikes me odd . They need to get on the ball . I haven't seen much action out of them . I'm just a little suspicious . But then me , myself and I conflict now and then . LOL

I've been following Baitjunkys pretty close . These guys are bust'in a$$ to meet the need . If they can keep it up from now on might just swim, to the top of the food chain . That's not something easily done .

I get eyes from Bustin Bass Baits . Talk to Brian email or something . He gets right back to you every time .

Just get yoru self a long stem meat thermometer . Digital or not don't really matter except for the price . You can stir with it while you get your temp in the center of the plastic . Infra red just gets surface temp . The plastic can be to hot in the center but read less on the surface .

Welcome I have a few friends from down your way . I even belong to LureLovers site there . Some real tackle artists live in your part of the world .