toadfrog

I use a Nu-wave cooker . It looks like a hot plate but the surface never gets hot. You have to use a pot that a magnet will stick to or it won't heat the plastic in the container . Has accurate thermal controls and can be set for any temp over 100 up to I believe 475. It can also be set for when you want it to shut off up to 99 hrs. Pyrex is a no for me . Eventually going from hot plate to microwave it will in time develop a fissure that will cause an explosion of glass and hot plastic . Been there done that twice over the years . The best thing I've found as an alternative for Pyrex is ceramic cream cups with a spout so you can have a hand pouring option . Ceramic also stays hot longer . Had those crack with continued use but not blow up. Find those cheat at thrift stores . Be sure they don't have gold leaf paint on them . Also never sit hot glassware on a cold metal surface you'll be sorry .

Since the lure is so large you might have to cool it down to 200 degrees before pouring another layer . This is where an infrered thermometer would maybe be of help .

I do very few tubes . However I found the round dritz blades effective if you space them with washers on a long piece of all thread like a rolling pin . Used a piece of neoprene rubber for a mat . Think you can pick up those blades at harbor freight fairly cheap rather than getting them in the sewing section of chain stores .

Didn't know to many folks still use vinyl but I used 1 to 1 ratio of xylene and acetone because I have those chemicals in the shop and it worked sufficiently for my needs at the time . The mix will clean brushes .

Fatman That fly you have is a walleye jig mold old style without recessed eye sockets . I believe I have one .

DaleSW , Pm me if you run into problems tying the stuff . There are a few tricks that may help .

I think you may be talking about marabou feathers . There are a lot of white bass in my area . Marabou is the dominant feather I have used for many years . After that comes hackle and then buck tail . Strung Marabou is the best of the best and can be purchased in any quality tackle shop or online . But if you buy from a fly shop it will cost more so look into some of our sponsors and buy there .

I have mixed a little anise 0il and WD- 40 . I had no ill result from that and it worked as good a any attractant .

Just my 2 cents here , but I think it will depend on the profile you present to the fish . Slim line or fluffy .

Closest thing to it will be on Rick Jacobs web site .

That might help . I think though it is more of a matter of refraction of the nuke waves of the metalic particles . Micro's are tricky critters.

I thought Bass Tackle but then it could have been Baitjunkies .

All sand contains minute iron oxide particles and other conductive minerals . You just happened to get that one in a thousand grains that had enough gathered into a conductive unit . Might aught to try glass beads used for fine sand blasting .

I do . You'll probably here all kinds of B.S. about why you should or shouldn't . But being an old hand on the forum I imagine you got your waders close by .

Softer the bait the more slip you git . Maybe you plastics are softer . Put a speck or 2 super glue on the shank and go for it .

I haven't had any problems with Baitjunkys products , any of them . Any way If I have problems It's my ADD or just plain dumb . Most of the products out there are pretty good generally . Each has a characteristic that may not be acceptable to any given person . Just got to try them till your happy .

This is jig head wall . There is a spinner bait wall and a plastics wall . All are placed open so I can find them at a glance . Saves time .

I bet you can't even get 50 baits done by next Sunday night . Gitter Done boy !

Bob you beat me to it . Faster gun.

That is common with those freak'in pyrex or any other glass . Ever since it happened to me in mid -air I've used ceramic cups or metal depending on the device I intend to heat with . So happy you didn't get hurt . That crap burns the !@$*&%$## out of you .

The essential series plastic is made for the like molds for those molds you'll get a dull finish with any plastisol you put in them . Therefore the essential series plastisol dose not have to give a sheen . Now this is only speculation on my part as far as the plastisol . But I have tested there plastisol off and on since before it belonged to Do-It . None of it has made a positive impression on me .

carolinamike used to sell his but I've lost the link.

If your looking to do something that big I have used a bottom bouncer mold . Turned out well , but that was just for grins and giggles .

Your looking at some toxic stinky stuff if acid has ever been in the battery . If you heat it and burn it off get well away form everything and everybody . Stay up wind and wear a good mask . Absolutely do not get the fumes in your eyes or on your skin .

1 .035 wire is general 2 type 0ff clevis is sort of a personal choice . I prefer a folded clevis but sometimes they are tight trying to slip on the blade . 2' and 4's will get you from trout size to bass range . 3 So much depends on how much hardware you put on to get your weight it could mean a upping a blade size . you can't ever have to many blade sizes . 2-3-4- ect. will also get you in your fish range . Take a look at the inline blades no clevis needed . Also don't put a plastic bead under your clevis or inline blade . They can wear and snag up the blade or just plain break . 4 Any of the wire bender twister tools pro models are good even the Cabela's old style will work . Just be sure whatever you buy is an all in one tool . That also is a matter of choice and what you are comfortable with . Nearly all the makers have a tutorial video that might help you decide .