Red's Baits

It sucks the machine will not work with any of the molds already made by BT, Zorn, or Bear. I have over 15k in molds and to start all over again with molds and buy that machine sucks. I enjoyed meeting Don first hand and the machine really works nice and will even work well with regrids from your spent spruces. It also has cooling block to cool your mold while shooting it also. They didn't have that hooked up at the Icast. Don got it to shooting pretty good swirls using the pulse timer and playing with the air pressure.

The Red Shad Red is gonna bleed. Try looking here they have some different reds. http://ispikeit.com/Store/c-71-pigments-dyes.aspx

Pitt, use Black Grape and not the purple. 2 oz. plastic Black Grape 5 drops Candy Apple Red 4 drops That will get you close then adjust to your liking. Robert

Thanks for the report Jim.

I have learned when you first start shooting from everything being cold cycle the plastic through the injectors until they heat up good. For cleaning the paddles what don't peel off easy I use carb cleaner and a rag it knocks it off quick.

Wow,.

It's not or they would be posting it. Jim, Your bringing out another point 1/2 power. Most likely everyones microwave has different power / wattage out levels. Half power would mean that your microwave is sending out energy half the time that is timed to cook for, unless you are using a newer microwave that has the new inverter power system that actually puts out the power all the time. This new type inverter was developed by Panisonic. It lowers the out put instead of blasting full power in timed events. This is really some cool stuff they came out with, I learned about it when I was shopping for a new microwave awhile back. I think Panisonic is the only one offering it since they have the rights to it. I can tell you it works really nice.

I agree with you Jim companies should have field testers. Just like you and I have field testers and I have guy's I sponsor that give me feed back. So in theory heating larger amounts of plastic is same as reducing the power of your microwave. Maybe Lureworks will make some changes and create microwave version. That may be the price differance on the plastic.

Dog gone it PW you said before I could get back home to respond as you just did. The begining is about bubbles. I doesn't matter as you say on wattage of a microwave I think it doe's. I would think if everyoe would step back and look at how the plastisol should be cured correctly.I would bet anybody a Coke that none of this plastisol on the market is intented or developed to be cured in a microwave. Maybe Lureworks is missing a stablizer in the mix. A microwave is gonna create a very intense heat reaction to anything it is used on. The higher the wattage of a microwave the faster it will heat. This will not matter if it is from outside in to inside out. The chemical change/cure is greatly increased. In turn vaporizing causing bubbles. To reduce bubbles you must slow down the chemical change. This would be by reducing the out put of the microwave and stirring the plastic to even out the hot spots. Ok I was not intending the nit-picking to be taken that why Jim. I meant that the company who has the product be given a chance by contacting them. All I am offering is information I have gotten from Brue and my chemical experience make polymers and other chemicals in lab test reactors to 15,000 galion reactors that I have been doing for 28 years. Me saying being hammered means the phone message machine be full and his email address having a headache from being stuff full of emails. So here is my 2 cents on the microwave deal and I am also guilty as well. We have gotten in a damn hurry and don't want to wait. So 3 minutes in a microwave is the dream and 20 minutes in a pot is a killer cause we don't have the patience to wait. Now isn't that the truth.

Thanks Frank for getting feet wet here. Bruce told me he spoke with you at the Icast. Man I really wanted to be a the Icast. I wanted to meet everyone I deal with. I didn't want to post Bruce's name or email without speaking to him first. It wouldn't have been fair to him to be hammered without warning. This forum should be here to help us little guy's not to nit-pick. Color-Tech as you said are use to selling to the big boy's that have heated injectors and water cooled molding machines. They now starting to see a market for us as well. Bruce is great to deal with on the phone and has ton of info if you just ask him for it. I spoke with Bruce about an issue I was having nothing to do with bubbles but with the plastic breaking. So I wanted to weed out the plastic before I went to the mold company to modify the mold ( and no I am not gonna drag them into this). I only use the injectasol and been having great luck with it. So I spoke to Bruce about trying the harder plastic, he really didn't think that was the cause. Anyway I wanted to try it just to clear my mind. Well he was right. I order the hard and he also sold me some that is harder then the hard I mean this is like a Brick. LOL So for the first test I mixed it 1/2 med 1/2 hard no real change on the breakage. Next straight up hard some what better but still same issue. Now for the extra hard buddy don't fart around when you draw up an injector of it cause it's like shooting puddy almost, you hit a bass in the head with this stuff and it will knock'em out. This stuff to me is for offshore and saltwater. All in all it is the molds thats the problem. Sincerely, Robert Norris Red's Baits

Not on a loaf of bread but on 1 slice over the years I have done it. The bottom of the slice will be moist while the top side will dry out. When I would cook it alittle to long it would start to burn in the middle of the slice of bread. I have not done this in years since my kids are all grown up now and can do it on there own. Jim, your point is good to. The product's on the market are all different. For this product speaking of the compound make up is different from others. Maybe thats why they are making injectisol, poursol, and ultrasol. I am not a spokesman for the company, but speaking with the company on the phone and through emails. People are not contacting them about the issues and are running straight to the forums with them. The first time I tried the product and spoke to the company the question first asked was did I use a microwave or a pot and how did I like it.

Straight from WIKI PrinciplesFor more details on this topic, see dielectric heating.A microwave oven works by passing non-ionizing microwave radiation, usually at a frequency of 2.45 gigahertz (GHz)—a wavelength of 122 millimetres (4.80 in)—through the food. Microwave radiation is between common radio and infrared frequencies. Water, fat, and other substances in the food absorb energy from the microwaves in a process called dielectric heating. Many molecules (such as those of water) are electric dipoles, meaning that they have a partial positive charge at one end and a partial negative charge at the other, and therefore rotate as they try to align themselves with the alternating electric field of the microwaves. This molecular movement represents heat which is then dispersed as the rotating molecules hit other molecules and put them into motion. Microwave heating is more efficient on liquid water (than on frozen water, where the molecules are not free to rotate) and on fats and sugars (which have a smaller molecular dipole moment).[8] Microwave heating is sometimes explained as a resonance of water molecules, but this is incorrect: such resonance only occurs in water vapor at much higher frequencies, at about 20 GHz.[9] Moreover, large industrial/commercial microwave ovens operating at the common large industrial-oven microwave heating frequency of 915 MHz—wavelength 328 millimetres (12.9 in)—also heat water and food perfectly well.[10] Microwave heating can cause localized thermal runaways in some materials with low thermal conductivity, where dielectric constant increases with temperature. Under certain conditions, glass can exhibit thermal runaway in a microwave to the point of melting.[citation needed] A common misconception is that microwave ovens cook food "from the inside out," meaning from the center of the entire mass of food outwards. In reality, microwaves are absorbed in the outer layers of food in a manner somewhat similar to heat from other methods. The misconception arises because microwaves penetrate dry non-conductive substances at the surfaces of many common foods, and thus often induce initial heat more deeply than other methods. Depending on water content, the depth of initial heat deposition may be several centimetres or more with microwave ovens, in contrast to broiling (infrared) or convection heating, which deposit heat thinly at the food surface. Penetration depth of microwaves is dependent on food composition and the frequency, with lower microwave frequencies (longer wavelengths) penetrating further. Microwaves cook from the inside out only in the sense that each molecule is generating heat from "inside" and radiating it "outward". Seems like you and Wikiapedia say the same thing no it don't/then yes it does Hmm. I do watch mythbuster's as well, but the aren't correct on everything ether. Chemicals react much different then food. I didn't copy the hole articale and it also explains how the power settings work. There are only a few microwaves the truely reduce the wattage out put and runs the full time and not blast in cycles. The bubbles are caused by the thermal runaway causing a micro explosion generating a gas bubbles due to the make up in the plastisol polymer chemistry.

Not so BBK try cooking a slice of bread in your microwave then tell me what is burnt first. Also if your watching your plastic when it is starting to charge if you stir it the center is thicker then the outer edges thats because it's getting hotter faster. I have been working in chemical plants making polymers and other chemicals for almost 30 years. Here is an easier idea for some that don't understand the bubbles due to heating to fast. Boil water in a pot the bubbles come from the bottom not the sides or the top. So when your heating the plastic to fast the lites in the polymers will flash/boil and cause the bubbles. Yes different companys have different formulas to make up there plastic so not every plastic is the same. I only use the microwave for ether a very small order or working up a color during this time I am not in a hurry up and get it done, other then that it's in the presto pot for cooking and holding temp. Night before I was playing with 2 cups of the med. injectasol with my microwave setting at 50% power out-put. No bubble issue from the start to finish. No I wasn't in a hurry to pour because I was playing with a new color and also trying a new proto mold.

I have spoken with Bruce about the microbubble issue. I don't really have this issue since I use presto pots. The thing that cause's this to happen in the microwave is it is heating to quick. When this happens the light polymers in the mix to boil creating a gas and that caues the microbubbles. As averyone know's they cook from the inside out. When I do use the microwave I set the power to 50% and stir about 30 seconds in each heating cycle. There are a few bubbles but the microwave I bought is like a nuclear power plant it's 1150 watt.

Watch out for the number of colors you use. Each color is a plate charge. The last time I spoke with Johnson bag co it was like 165 per plate and a 6 to 8 week lead time once you have the final art work finished plus a 10k min order for bags.