jacobsbaits

Delw, How about we agree, to disagree on this subject. I am no way an expert on the mechanics of a microwave oven. But I have had bad experiences heating plastic with metallic glitter in a microwave. I personally prefer metallic flake, heated conventionally, because it doesn't bleed, and it can be reheated many times without losing it's shine. I know you've been at this for a long time, and I respect your experience. I hope you have no hard feelings, Rick

Here's some more info I found on line. Do you still want to insist that metallic flake is safe for mircowave use? I'll keep throwing facts at you for as long as it takes, for you to admit that you are wrong. Other metals are a no-no in the microwave, too. Tiny sharp pieces and thin pieces of metal are a different story. The electric fields in microwaves cause currents of electricity to flow through metal. Substantial pieces of metal, like the walls of a microwave oven, can usually tolerate these currents without any problems. However, thin pieces of metal, like aluminum foil, are overwhelmed by these currents and heat up very quickly. So quickly in fact, that they can cause a fire. Plus, if the foil is crinkled so that it forms any sharp edges, the electrical current running through the foil will cause sparks. If these sparks hit something else in the oven, perhaps a piece of wax paper, you'll probably be reaching for the fire extinguisher.

Delw Here's what two suppliers have to say about this subject, the first is from jannesnetcraft and the second is from lurecraft I copied these directly from their sites Purple glitter is metal and unuseable in microwave ovens. CAUTION WHEN USING METAL FLAKE IN A MICROWAVE. IT IS OKAY IN SOME BUT MAY NOT BE IN OTHERS. My opinion is, Heat with a microwave at your own risk. Results may vary.

Okay, So why did only the aluminum flake spark and burn through the pyrex cup? I don't buy into the idea, that it's the color and not the material. Is someone willing to put a piece of aluminum in the nuke and see what happens? I'm not. This may be a good subject for the show "Myth Busters" All I can say for sure is that, I've had serious problems with anodized aluminum flake in the microwave, and I stopped heating plastic in a microwave because of it. On the other hand, I know people, who will only heat with a microwave, and they have never had any problems.

Hey Frank, I've had the same problem, and the culprit was anodized aluminum flake. I had one pyrex cup shatter in the microwave, and another shattered in my hand while I was removing it from the microwave. After that I did a little research, and found out that the flake was made of aluminum and was being super heated in the microwave, and burning through the glass. I now use a toaster oven and hot plate to heat small batches of plastic

www.lurecraft.com has a floater additive available.

Your shocked by what?

Delw, I totally agree with you on the cutter size issue, the bigger the better. And are sharp ribs on the "Sweet Beaver Bait" necessary? I'm sure a lot of guys will say that the ribs are the key to baits success, but I think it's more in the appendages. We differ in our opinions on DXF files, I use them daily for routine 2D tool and die work. It just saves me a ton of programing time to take a dxf file straight from design and dump it into the machine. But your right, as far as 3d mold work, dxf files are for the most part useless. I feel your pain with companies skimping on detailed blueprints anymore. They send in CAD files which are drawn line to line, no specified tolerance, and they expect you to make a good part for them. It seems like every idiot with a college degree in engineering, considers themselves a tool/mold designer.

I agree, It takes a great imagination, and a total understanding of programming & machining to produce molds of that caliber. But in all fairness, there are mold's from Delmart, Bears, and Bob's that I'm very impressed with as well. I admire the work from all these guy's

I admire the detailed machining in his swim bait molds. I personally don't own one, but I am in awe by the details that he has programmed into his molds.

That's amazing how fast you received a new mold?????

I believe you, but the core pin and mold cavity are tapered, which puts the length of the pin and cavity into play. As the injection pressure is applied, it forces the core pin down, thus increasing the gap between the tapered pin and mold cavity. I've been in the Tool & Die trade for 30 years, (Good Lord I'm getting old) but to make the tapered design work properly, the machining tolerances of the mold cavity and core pin would have to be within +/-.0002" It's simple trigonometry.

Plastisol will not flow into a gap less than .003" so there has to be more space between the core pin and cavity than that to allow for the flashing.

Maybe the hinge is allowing the mold to open up when injector pressure is applied