Cami
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... me too Are you talking about the Bugmolds mold? To obtain the upright position, after the the casting, I cut the Gilly over the head, from the middle of eyes till the dorsal fin, and remove a little bit of plastic from the inside with a curved knife; I glue a little shaped piece of foam; finally I reclose the "wound" with an hot blade. Another trick to fully fill in the cavities on its sides, is to pour these cavities before to inject the closed mold. If you wish to see an example, let see it in the Gallery page- Bye Cami
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Yes, they are.
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https://brightbaits.com/softbait-paint ... if from USA is not possible, then let try with Europe. Bye Cami
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Plastic packing strap and It resists to molded plastisol. Bye Cami
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Hi Mark, I was thinking to do the same with open silicone molds or 2 halves silicone molds. With silicone I don't think that it's necessary a carrirer, it should be sufficient to sponge the powder upon its surface. Instead with alluminium molds It could be useful to appl, with a brush, paper glue from a stick. In past I used paper stick glue to fix inside mold's inner sides the mylar net. Bye Cami
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https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v678-5-12-inch-130-mm/ https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v306-8-inch-200-mm/ https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v257-7-inch-175-mm/ ... but perhaps it isn't the right moment. Bye Cami
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... yes, I agree, perhaps this contest box is more appropriate. Thank you Sir. Bye Cami -
... I agree, thank you sir. Regards. Cami
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Dear sirs, about my entry FMM, you changed the contest box from the hand made hard bait to the fly one, but it is not a fly lure, it weighs more than 1 oz., it is used with bait casting rod, it is a "spinning" lure for Pike. Now it is a surface bait, but it is usual to add a jika weight to work it under surface, moreover there is a trailer in plastisol ... are you sure about this changing? Cami
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... ehm, dear sirs, you changed the contest box from the hand made hard bait to the fly one, but it is not a fly lure, it weighs more than 1 oz., it is used with bait casting rod, it is for Pike. Now it is a surface bait, but it is usual to add a jika weight to work it under surface, moreover there is a trailer in plastisol ... are you sure about this changing? Cami
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Fake Miuras Mouse I personally know the nice Maurizio Carini and I think his baits are definitely brilliant. I saw and touched his Big Mouses and my interpretation is at least .. fake. The ingredients are very simple: bucktail, fly assembly thread, copper wire, swivels, split rings, treble hooks, mono wire and pipes, crystal flash, 3D eyes and ... the cork, naturally from a strictly Italian Spumante. Ah, I also injected the big grub in plastisol ... recycled. Bye Cami
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Mica powder from an artcraft store: 2 nails per 4 oz. Bye. Cami
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Dear Fern, well we are basically speaking about solvent based varnish and their recipes are probably really similar. In States you can find Spike It products, in Europe we have (now) the Finnish CAB Coat varnishes or those ones by the Belgian Brightbaits ... and all of them are not really cheap, but they don't need a top coating. Solvents like MEK, THF or Acetone, in my opinion, snap off the poured plastisol surface and permit to the pigment to be mixed with PVC, instead Cyclohexanone should be a retarder of this kind of varnish, good for airbrushing tecnique. My hobbyst process is really simple: cleaning of soft bait surface with a solvent like MEK, "painting" of bait surface with powdered pigments (pearls, metallic, shifting) using a sponge, heating the surface with a torch, top coating with the cold mix 50 PVC glue/50 solvent. The solvent is a temporarily thinner of PVC glue. If there is someone that can suggest any kind of adjustment/improvement, I will really appreciate it. I lastly bought some thin Ukrainian cheap varnishes, they work great with a brush and it's possible to thin them with acetone ... also in this solvent base varnish a top coat isn't needed. Bye Cami
