Cami

... me too Are you talking about the Bugmolds mold? To obtain the upright position, after the the casting, I cut the Gilly over the head, from the middle of eyes till the dorsal fin, and remove a little bit of plastic from the inside with a curved knife; I glue a little shaped piece of foam; finally I reclose the "wound" with an hot blade. Another trick to fully fill in the cavities on its sides, is to pour these cavities before to inject the closed mold. If you wish to see an example, let see it in the Gallery page- Bye Cami

Yes, they are.

https://brightbaits.com/softbait-paint ... if from USA is not possible, then let try with Europe. Bye Cami

Plastic packing strap and It resists to molded plastisol. Bye Cami

Hi Mark, I was thinking to do the same with open silicone molds or 2 halves silicone molds. With silicone I don't think that it's necessary a carrirer, it should be sufficient to sponge the powder upon its surface. Instead with alluminium molds It could be useful to appl, with a brush, paper glue from a stick. In past I used paper stick glue to fix inside mold's inner sides the mylar net. Bye Cami

https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v678-5-12-inch-130-mm/ https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v306-8-inch-200-mm/ https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v257-7-inch-175-mm/ ... but perhaps it isn't the right moment. Bye Cami

... I agree, thank you sir. Regards. Cami

Dear sirs, about my entry FMM, you changed the contest box from the hand made hard bait to the fly one, but it is not a fly lure, it weighs more than 1 oz., it is used with bait casting rod, it is a "spinning" lure for Pike. Now it is a surface bait, but it is usual to add a jika weight to work it under surface, moreover there is a trailer in plastisol ... are you sure about this changing? Cami

Mica powder from an artcraft store: 2 nails per 4 oz. Bye. Cami

Dear Fern, well we are basically speaking about solvent based varnish and their recipes are probably really similar. In States you can find Spike It products, in Europe we have (now) the Finnish CAB Coat varnishes or those ones by the Belgian Brightbaits ... and all of them are not really cheap, but they don't need a top coating. Solvents like MEK, THF or Acetone, in my opinion, snap off the poured plastisol surface and permit to the pigment to be mixed with PVC, instead Cyclohexanone should be a retarder of this kind of varnish, good for airbrushing tecnique. My hobbyst process is really simple: cleaning of soft bait surface with a solvent like MEK, "painting" of bait surface with powdered pigments (pearls, metallic, shifting) using a sponge, heating the surface with a torch, top coating with the cold mix 50 PVC glue/50 solvent. The solvent is a temporarily thinner of PVC glue. If there is someone that can suggest any kind of adjustment/improvement, I will really appreciate it. I lastly bought some thin Ukrainian cheap varnishes, they work great with a brush and it's possible to thin them with acetone ... also in this solvent base varnish a top coat isn't needed. Bye Cami

Look for Borflex 13 Bye. Cami

Hyper shift powder pigments, those base coloured, not the white ones (good over the black base). Bye Cami

A recipe, similar to the French one, is 50% PVC glue + 50%Methyl Ethyl Chetone (MEK) + powder pigment. For the PVC glue I use Tangit. It dries very quickly, so I'm able to use it only with a brush. To thin it and have more time for airbrushing, you should add butanone, but I have never tried. Bye Cami

https://baitmold.com/?s=shiner&post_type=product Bye Cami

French Recipe for Soft Baits Cold Coat: 50% PVC Glue + 50% MEK (Methyl Ethil Ketone). You can only brush it, you cannot airbrush ir. You can also add powder or liquid pigments or glitters. It works also as a bonding system to repair soft baits. Bye Cami

... me too, but till now I found only shifting powder pigments that cannot be added to hot plastisol, or better you can, but the result is really poor, even if you mix them with black. I'm waiting to receive from China some colored shifting powder pigments, then I'll show you the results of coloring soft bais in mass. Bye Cami

I'm an hobbyist and lastly I played around with several mica and shifting powder pigments. I put Mica powder pigments, taken in artistic shops, directly inside hot plastisol, obtaining massive baits, for instance with white mica I reach a great marble white, a good base for following "painting". Instead with shifting powder pigments, coming from nail art, I brush them with a sponge over the bait surface. The best result is obtained with a black base (obtained for instance with black powder pigment ...be careful about scorching plastisol), after that I fix the pigments with a torch and encapsulate them with a hot or cold coat. Well, every time you change the base color, you reach a different shifting result. Till now I used only "white" shifting powder pigments, not those ones colored, used in the automotive field, and to mix them in hot plastisol has been an unsuceful trial. I'm waiting Chinese colored shifting powder pigments and I'll try again to use in mass ... finger cross. Lastly I received some basic solvent lacquer colors for the soft bait surface, it's possible to use them only with a brush, and I tried to mix yellow with gold powder pigment, here the result: Bye Cami

Dear J., this sentence should be written in the stone: yesterday, for the first time, I shoot in my pre heated molds, no more only oiled, with the injector pre heated by a thermo gun and ... its movement changed at all, smooth, sliding, a real pleasure to use it. Thank you. Cami