Cami

The round head of tube bait is obtained by the concave shaped cork that close one end of PVC pipe. You have to chose a cork with an external diameter that fit without any clearance the inner diameter of pipe. You can shape the concave with a round grindstone. Finally let seall the cork with the working tape. The thickness will be not the same in all length, but thicker in portion close to the head and thinner where you will cut the stripes of the tail. The results are really performing tube baits ... that catch Pikes. Bye Cami

Dear Eastman03, as said unfortunally there are anymore the 2 vids and I'm no the guy who showed this simple technique (I usually make 4" tube dipping rods) The first hyphotesis is the right one: 1) tap the PVC pipe with the concave cork 2) lube the inner side of PVC pipe 3) pour hot plastisol for around the half of PVC pipe length 4) start to rotate the PVC pipe with an angle more than 45° ... more horizontal the pipe is, more long the tube will be - I apologise but I really don't remember if "Il Gatto" closed also the other side of pipe. I think not 5) cool the PVC pipe under a current fresh water tap 6) with the thin rod (a stiff pc o wire) detach the tube from the PVC pipe - the rod must be used between the external skin of tube and the internal wall of pipe ... simple, but for sure a little bit dangerous: when you put the PVC pipe under the fresh water, using thermal gloves of course, you must be really careful that no one drop of water can enter inside the pipe. Bye Cami

Hi, I would like to suggest this old thread The original link to the Italian Site is http://www.bassmaster.it/a_tube.htm Unfortunally it isn't more possible to see the 2 videos on youtube. Anyway, the trick to obtain such big tubes is to fill hot plastisol inside the rigid PVC pipe and rotate it sliding the plastisol for all its length. After some rotations you have to cool the PVC pipe with current fresh water ... simple. Important: you must wear heat gloves, glasses, long suites Please, let me know your experience with this technique and ask if you need. Bye Cami

Here there are the "original" ones https://baitmold.com/page/1/?s=swing+impact&post_type=product Bye. Cami

Tomy's Bait, isn'it? When I saw them first time, I asked to myself: "... but, are they real?" Bye Cami

In past I had similar troubles trying to copy, with a 2 parts room temperature silicone, some chinese soft baits, instead I did not find any kind of troubles copying right "good" plastisol softbaits, so I think that such kind of marks depend by the raw material of soft baits that you will like to copy (especially the surface painted ones). Bye Cami

Again, coming back to this thread, I would like to know what you really think about the review of stone mold inside this video Bye. Cami

Crayons are also a good alternative. I used them in past with good results. Bye. Cami

Jesus, Guy. You've got a really good sense of color. About the sicky trouble you have with the top coat, we can help you if tell us which kind of top coat it is. Bye. Cami

Dear Toadfrog, thank you for sharing and my compliments for the patience to apply the decal. I suppose that in this case the top coat is a dipping in hot clear, isn' It?

Just FYI but there is another "guy" that creates realistic soft Minnows, his name is Janus and he comes from Austria https://www.softjerks.at/cms/ In this case I think to know where he catches his paint: by a little German producer and this solvent varnish Is based with heated plastisol. @ Toadfrog I'm real curios to see a homemade soft bait with a decal: would you like to share a pict., please? Bye Cami

By volume. In past has been suggested to substitute MEK with THF, but I prefer MEK. As retarder has been suggested to use Ciclohexanone (I'm not sure how it is written), but I have never found it. @ Toadfrog: do you transfer decals over plastisol baits? Bye Cami

This simple recipe 50 PVC glue/50 solvent dries really quickly, so you have to prepare this mixture just before to brush it. The main idea is to create a varnish solvent based, like that of SpikeIt, so you can apply it also with an airbrush pen and you do not need anymore any kind of top coat. In some posts here on TU there are some suggestions about more efficient recipes, but I couldn't find the right one till now. Bye Cami

Dear Fern, thank you for sharing web links. MEK = metil ethil chetone, it's a solvent. The original French recipe requires 50% PVC glue (ex. Tangit) + 50% Solvent (ex. MEK). You must be really quick to apply with a brush a thin layer as top coat and yes it's thinner than a dipping in clear, so texture will remain. If you use other chemical ingredients you can create a less volatile varnish, colored with plastisol dyes or powder pigments ... I haven't ever found this varnish recipe, but I think that the Polish Maker found it; it's same kind of solvent varnish sold by SpikeIt. Unfortnately I cannot follow Facebook now, but the Polish Maker could have described this varnish recipe PVC glue based. Bye Cami

Looking at these wonderful baits the first question is: are they real or soft plastic? Would you like to post the web site of this real good Polish Maker, please? I really like to paint with powder pigments: it's easy and funny. Few rules: - clean surface with a solvent as MEK - as said apply powder with a sponge - fix the pigments with an heat source as a torch - apply a top coat as clear dipping, but I prefer a mix of PVC glue and MEK I agree with Toadfrog: the belly of these baits is probably obtained with an insert, I personally use a mylar net. Bye Cami

I found that Loctite Gel to adhere and a mix of 50% PVC Glue + 50% MEK brushed over the eyes' area is good and quick method to encase 3D eyes, I'm using this French system and it works. Bye Cami

From Europe with sympathy, here you are a system really strong, called 360° rig without wire. If you need to position the treble hook more close to the tail, then you can put a pc. of single wire between the jig hook curve and the swivel, of course the 2 wire loops must be crimped really well. Bye Cami