blazt*

I wonder if they would give out samples? I really want to try it too, but hesitate to dump 30 bucks on a pint. Plus thinner.

Years ago I worked with an Iwata HP-C but right now I'm looking at the same model you have. Or at least I think it is...the manual for the Deluxe airbrush they sell now says the tip size is .35mm which what I want. I saw a youtube vid of a guy doing some really fine lines and that's when I decided to get one. I'm wondering...is the model number on yours 95810? Here's the youtube vid if anybody wants to see the brush in action: According to the poster of vid that's Auto Air.

gas station

I guess I should clarify: I'm talking about a portable air storage tank. No compressor, just the tank. I'm sure everybody got that but just wanted to make sure I didn't misword my title...

Mmm. It's pretty humid where I live right now and wet. How many coats are you spraying? I take it you were otherwise happy with it?

I'd do repaints to start. Tuning a handmade crank is a lot harder than painting one. You have to know how to paint anyway so start there. If you're fishing stained water you might start with Extreme Glitter (wal-mart, craft stores, $5), a few nice lure eyes off ebay to keep the shipping cost down, and some Devcon 2 Ton epoxy for a proven, tough, non yellowing clearcoat (see the Devcon site for dealers, you may have to email but they can tell you exactly where to find it - $3) Best way to apply D2T is with a grocery bag stretched over you finger. Stick the crank lip into a weighted cardboard box and flip it every 5 minutes for about 1/2 hr. Before you clear it you might add some scales to the back using one of those fluffy plastic shower scrub things (one dollar, just lay it down on the back and spray after you've dried your base coat or maybe the first thin coat of clear) and a good can of spray paint. You may want to search around to make sure the brand of paint will work with the Devcon. You'd could do copies of flat - sided baits such as Rapala DT flats. Much easier than copying a fat crank and it will give you a bottom up understanding of ballasts, harnesses, etc. Get yourself a Jann's Netcraft and a Barlow's catalog. They're full of almost everthing you need and you'll learn / get ideas from them. A lot easier on the brain than reading 10,000 scattered opinions. From there you can dive deeper and deeper.

One as in....one?! Are those billfish lures?

Have you tried testing for leaks w/ soapy water then sealing with teflon tape? The yellow HF model was the one I was looking at. At least one of their regulators has a reputation for being junk, though.

Here the product page for KBS Diamond: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

I was reading an airbrush how to book at the library that recommended and air storage tank as an air source. I kind of blew the idea off a few weeks ago and started thinking about compressors but now I'm reconsidering. I guess the real question is how many bass cranks can I get out of a 5 gallon tank , or more exactly how many can YOU spray at whatever pressure you're running? Hopefully there'll be a gas station with a pump that cranks out at least 90 psi.

So I just fully digested the massive KBS Diamond thread, which died a slow death in July. Strangely enough, with all that interest, there haven't been any significant new threads since then. I think KBS sounds definitely promising. Everyone there seemed to be dipping or brushing and most of them were complaining about bubble defects. But the coverage spec is 2 mils, and I don't think you'll get that with dipping. RTFM. But I plan on spraying my clear (I'm trying to get away from d2t soon), and I really want to know what other airbrushers think. I'm looking for something that's halfway convenient to use cuz I don't have a decent workspace and will probably work outdoors. I really miss the old Lurecraft 2 part clear. It was great. But I have no idea when they stopped making it and I'm on the hunt now. I'll be spraying mostly (bass) cranks coated with Createx or glitter.

Ok, thanks.

Well, I just got off the phone with Createx and was told the color samples I'll be getting aren't real color chips - they're just printed on paper. So I won't be able to gauge reflectivity. Very dissapointing.

Is it flashy like foil? Or not as good?

Createx calls their 4100 series aluminum base "highly reflective" and I'm wondering if it would be good for cranks that imitate superflashy baitfish such as shiners and shad. Sounds like it might be an easy way out of foiling a bait or maybe better than foil , and besides, it would let you use masking to lay scales down. I have some color charts coming in the mail but I can't wait...I want to know what the great oracle thinks.

FYI this year's Bassmaster Classic was won with Mustad KVD trebles. If you decide to go that route get the 11 pack. Cheaper.

That's good to know. I'm thinking 2-3 years of hard use under a good clear would be all I could ask. Do they get a lot of sun, those lures?

Sounds like Createx overdid the warning in this case. How old are your lures, and how often do they get fished? And hopefully that's not d2t going yellow.

Definitely have, and they look promising. IRC Auto Air and Wicked are both waterborne (w/solvent) so they should spray a little better. Although I don't think they have chartreuse or hot orange in that line.

Createx describes their fluorescents colors as "not for permanent finishes...pigments are in a rapid state of decay" etc. So I'm wondering if anyone has a lure that has been coated w/ Createx fluoro for a long time and if it's a good idea in general. Also wondering if they have a chartreuse elsewhere in their line. I kind of distressed over this because I'd like to shoot Createx exclusively, but it's kind of hard to consider when you can't put together decent firetiger!

The people at Devcon can tell you where to find a specific product locally. I gave them my zip and they gave me a list of about six places where I could find 30 min. syringes nearby.

I want to do some prototyping (finesse worms, grubs, more...) and I'm wondering if a POP mold will work for me. I'm just not sure (from the posts I've been reading) if it will produce the detail and smooth, glossy finish I lust for. Saw a few baits that looked kind of rough from a POP mold. I'll be making open hand pour molds, possibly moving into 2 part molds later on. I worked worked with RTV before and of course I love it. Got a perfect mold on the first try. Still, less than $15 for 25 lbs at Lowes for the POP. Of course, I'd need sealant. Is wood glue really the best? Or epoxy?