blazt*

Well, I wound up doing a KVD 2.5 instead of the 2.5 KO I said I was going to copy. The bass were biting it in 46 degree water (the KVD runs down to at least 7 ft)...didn't want to take a chance on the KO even though it's a great lure. I figure if they'll bite it at that temp it should be good down to about 40? Rayburnguy, I got a LOT from the info you gave me but gave up trying to photo the bait after fooling with it for hours, trying to get a decent shot. It wanted to squirm around on me bad and I found it just a little hard to judge where on the nose and tail to square it up. Also the profile wasn't that clear in the printouts I made. About halfway through this I was wishing I had some playdoh to insert the bait into to stabilize it for the shots, but instead I went with a "split" approach: dividing the bait at the center seam, then using each half to create paper templates for the sides. After this, I quartered the bait by supergluing a piece of heavy sewing thread to the longest point at the nose and then stretching it tightly to the longest point at the tail. This end was tacked in place with superglue also (to form a centerline from nose to tail), and the entire string given a light coat to make it rigid. Once everything dried I used a hobby knife with a curved blade, and rocked it back and forth (rather than slicing right across, which knocked the thread off center) on this centerline to form a good groove from end to end. Once the groove was formed, I removed the string and sliced through the bait carefully, producing quarter sections from each left and right side section. From these, I traced the back and belly profiles onto paper (after supergluing the two back and two belly quarters together to make a full back and full belly) , taking a pic of the profile on paper (much easier to get a square pic vs. actual lure) and resizing the dimensions from there. For some reason, after increasing only the length to fit the curve, the width kind of increased itself. Strange. I had to fiddle with it but eventually got it to fit across the back of the block at the proper length. Here they are, with the quarters glued into back and belly halfs: These were good to have around, because once the side profile was cut from the block of basswood, I was able to place one of these pieces (inverted) onto a centerline drawn onto the back or belly to use as a guideline for radius limit lines. A great way to match the curves. Once I drew the limit lines for the radius, made the cuts, and got to sanding it was good to have these pieces to refer to, held side by side against the wooden blank. A pretty smooth and easy way to go, I thought. Athough a compass, as bobp said, might be better; the plastic halves tend to slip when you are trying to hold them in place. Here's the fully shaped KVD 2.5 blank, with a Plano divider bill for testing. The bill is huge, I haven't taken it for a swim yet but I want to see how deep a square bill will go: After taking the pic, I installed some twisted wire hangers using superglue mixed with the dust from the basswood...within seconds it was solid enough for me to twist the eye sideways without the shaft giving any, so hopefully they will be very strong. Maybe I'll hang the gym weights on the bait one day. Especially since I screwed up and drilled the ballast hole to close to the hanger hole. But no way is my first wood blank going to scrap! How long should I let the superglue cure? I took me two days, working from late morning to after dark to sort out the photographing, printing, templates, tools - and finally a finished blank! but I feel like I have a good method that works for me ironed out. That was most of the work - shaping the blank was the least demanding. I am really satisfied with this hybrid method of doing things, I'm already planning on the same process with the next crank I want to copy, a Strike King series 6. Hopefully that'll be a good winter crank, and not too big. I heard it produces in really cold water.

Lacking power tools, what would be the best hand tool to remove the waste wood on the corners of a block that I've drawn my outline on?

Cabelas has them, but the longest is 1.25" and dia is not spec'd. You can get them shipped to store for free if you have a Cabela's, though. http://www.cabelas.com/product/H-H-Lure-Closed-Eye-Screws-Per-100/741690.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dscrew%2Beyes%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=screw+eyes&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

Would your method work for the front hanger on a jerkbait, where the body depth is only about 3/4"? Crazy glue is CA based, isn't it? I have some bottles of super glue I could use and what you are describing here sounds a little better than twisting my own hangers. I take it you are completely filling the hole with glue, so that it provides mechanical support for the swivel, rather than just making it stick to the wood. Do you lose fewer bass on a crank with this setup?

Where did you find that? Must have been on sale....I have a HF and I was there yesterday. Looked around a little, mostly in welding but I didn't see anything that cheap.

Paints and airbrush sold! (The other airbrush in the photo is NOT for sale.)

I've always wondered why nobody talks about making rattlebaits from wood. Probably because forming the chamber would be a PITA, but why not a silent model? Rattlebaits are great in clear water I bet that would be good. I have been fishing some cheap chinese baits for a few years now that are SUPERB. The have an erratic flutter on the lift and come to rest dead on the nose, no matter the angle, etc. I should probably autopsy one and see what it'll do reproduced in wood. On the other hand I can get them cheap...but would wood outproduce?

Sounds like a good strategy. That would give you more consistent casting perfomance, as well. Normally it wouldn't matter much with the "carpet bombing" lure that a crank usually is, but on windy day my hands like to know just what to expect w/ the cast control down to 1.5 . I don't spend much on hooks. I get short shank round bend eagle claws on ebay for about 15 cents apiece, and bend them from point to bend so that each point is offset about 35 degrees. There are 4 advantages to this: 1) With multiple points oriented in multiple directions, one or two of them are very likely to catch. 2) Once a point catches and either you or the fish puts the pressure on, the offset causes the hook to rotate like a drill bit into flesh. 3) An offset point is much less likely to get thrown than a hook with straight points. 4) because bass usually turn straight away or away and slightly down after the strike, the modified point is more likely to catch than a point oriented towards the sky. I've been testing this for months now under different conditions, refining the degree of offset until I was losing the fewest bass. It works, and it works hard - even when burning a crank and that's usually when you are going to lose / miss a lot of bass. You don't care how much your hooks cost, but I bet these modified trebles ( with the more open bend ) will lay KVD elites to waste, at least when smoking the bait when the bass will slap at it.

Well...what I thought was a local shop turns out to be a chain store called Woodcraft. I walked in and found some 1" thick basswood blocks for $1.25 apiece. I estimate a half dozen flat sided, or nearly flat sided, 2.75" baits from one block. That puts the cost/lure under a quarter for the wood! These pieces are about 4.5"x5.5" , IIRC. I picked up 2 blocks that had straight grain, no knots, and the lightest abberations. The whole pile they had on the shelf looked quite decent. I have no idea yet what the density of these block is, or the uniformity between blocks density - wise. Just thought I'd put this up for anyone who is in the same boat as me and wants to get started with carving out wooden baits. If you want to give it a shot I'd say going to Woodcraft, if you have one, might just be a no-brainer.

Well I finally tracked down some basswood blocks at a local woodworking shop, and the price is right. $2.75 for 1.5 by 1.5 by12". So I want to get started with that. Any particular qualities I should be looking for such as tight grain, even grain, etc? Should I bring my digiscale shopping so that I can check density and so they'll think I'm an alien?

Those look cool. I'll have to check those links again when I have more time. I picked up a can of reg Krylon black at walmart. Both cans indicated 50 degree min. spray temp so I skipped the fusion. I did a small batch of cranks, based out with nail polish, and adhesion was more than a slight problem. The paint pooled a bit in the center of each diamond shaped cell of scale mesh. It later melted (one one bait) under urethane clear. The others were semi - ok. I'm pretty sure it was over 50 degrees, and I warmed the can first. I'm thinking I need something like createx in a spray can. Never had a problem with it outside in the cold - always great results. I guess I could get one of those refillable cans with an attached shrader valve but then that would be getting away from the original goal of simplification and cheapness.

Hildebrandt! Maybe..... But years ago I bought a bunch of 24k plated blades from either jann's or barlow's - can't remember. But they were very nice indeed. Still not as nice as Hildy. They are the nicest looking and running blades I've ever fished. But I haven't fished them in years and all the trusted brands on the market have been slipping bad lately, one right after another. Makes me wonder when the bottom will fall out on these money grubbing , corporate bean counters. I hope they get taught a lesson.

If you want to try cleaning the nozzle, the best way is to rip a corner from a paper towel, rolling it up tightly into tall, skinny cone. Tight as you can, nearly to the breaking point. Then soak in acetone, or if you don't have that, alcohol.The tip of this cone should be sharp looking. Insert the "sharp" end into the fat side of the nozzle until it exits from the nozzle end. Grab the point and pull the paper tight into the nozzle, maybe twisting as you pull. Next, put a few more drops of acetone or alcohol on the paper, leave the nozzle upside down, and allow to soak a few minutes. After the soak, add a few more drops and begin working the paper towel round and round by twisting the sharp end where it comes out of the nozzle. Do this for at least a couple of minutes, and really put some elbow grease into it. Keep the paper wet with solvent. Repeat with one or two more PT corners. If your nozzle is clogged, this should isolate / eliminate the problem if done diligently. I have a bunch of partially full bottles of Createx airbrush paint I want to get rid of pretty cheap. Good bass colors. PM me if you want.

Just want to know about everbody's favorite rattle can paint! I need something to do scale patterns on the backs of my cranks and possibly white on the bellies - that's the only thing it will be used for - but I want to be able to lay down a nice, smooth, extra fine spray. It wouldn't hurt if the can was easy to hold and control. Also I'm going to need something that will spray and adhere well in cold weather, since I always paint outside. Before I started airbrushing I tried a can of the el cheapo Walmart crap in the blue can, but it just wouldn't adhere below 40 degrees. I decided I want to go ahead and get rid of my airbrushes, compressor, bottles of ctex, and everything else. These days I mostly throw glitter - coated cranks, and they produce in all conditions. I paint my jigs with nail polish and they come out great. No need for the pile of airbrush gear anymore - I'm just going to pare down because I can crank out more baits this way, anyhow.

I guess I can't argue. I'll go ahead and wait until I find the wood I really want. Called about 5 places the other day looking for white cedar, but nobody had it. Is basswood going to be easier to work than the cedar?

Well, upon reading this again I see that last part is about as clear as mud. So...by saying "I like the idea of using these", I mean bullet weights. And by saying "...the hole should work for a hook hanger" I mean the hole in the center of the weight. I'm not sure if there's going to be a way to get a cotter pin in there, sounds like an idea though.

OK, sounds like I might need to pick up some white cedar just for something to piddle with on a small batch of cranks - but is this wood prone to allowing oil to bleed through the paint? I've heard red cedar can sometimes do this. If so, would sealing with CA glue eliminate any potential problems? I got my sheet of PC today...really looking forward to getting started. Hopefully the bass will still be shallow by the time I track down some balsa or basswood. Do you guys have a preference for one of these woods in particular when water temps are below 55 F?

Is there an fairly decent wood to use between now and the time I can locate / obtain something more suitable? Something fairly common such as pine or what have you? I'd like to go ahead and crank out some baits now, and when I make a fatal mistake wasting the cheap stuff would be so much better than a good chunk of basswood. There is a place nearby that has various types of small scrap wood for sale, or I may hit Home Depot, etc. I'm not sure if I want to do cedar or not, as I've heard it chips and splinters. Thanks to rayburnguy (for the excellent tutorial grade write up - I'll probably make good use of it), bobp and everybody else that pitched in. I plan to throw all of your ideas into the lake soon. He he.

What would be the best way to install the bullet weights? If I were to drill a hole starting at the top of the bait, stopping just shy of the belly (say 3/16" inch) to create a countersink, would the ballast be positioned too high? Or would 3/16" be too weak to support the front hook with a fish on? Or maybe I should just find another way. I could just drill the ballast hole in the belly, with a tiny shaft leading to this ballast hole starting at the top of the bait. Another tiny hole right next to that one 1/4" deep next to the small drilled out shaft for the end of a U-bent wire to seat in, like the wire doodad in a spring loaded float. And a little groove that allows the bend to lie flush between the two holes . That way I wouldn't have to split the bait...I want to avoid that. The cheating man's wire form. I'm thinking out loud big time I'm just coming up with this crap as I type. Please excuse. I like the idea of using these. I have lots of extras from the multipacks that I buy, and they are probably 1/8 - 3/16oz. I have a couple sizes I don't use. I need to go put one on the digiscale. Also the hole should work for a hook hanger.

D2t will alter the color of your finishes. And you'll be lucky if half the flash makes it through the "clear" (yeah right, more like through the "slight amber / yellow") if using foil, glitter, etc. I use Lure Craft Polysil - a 2 part urethane - transparency and clarity are virtually flawless. Easy to deal with. Very expensive to have shipped (hazmat fees.)

Actually it doesn't sound too hard. And that's a real good idea, I may just try that. It took me a minute to digest what you where saying about making the lengthwise profile longer - you mean the distance will measure out longer than straight nose to tail measurements because of the curvature, right? But I had a thought - what if you could roll the bait onto an inkpad, getting is wet with ink, transferring the profile onto some trasparent trace paper directly from the lure. Then, unless this is a stupid idea and I failed to realize whatever fatal mistake I am missing, cut out your template(s) and glue them straight to the bait? The belly hanger might have to be ground off to make the ink profile, although on my KOs the hanger is attached to a removable plug. The disadvantage vs. your idea is you can't autocenter the dimensions, but you wouldn't have to worry about being off square with your pics. You definitely sound like a man of experience...I want to know just what you think of this. Feel free to shoot it down if needed, anybody! Your way probably sounds a little less error prone, because I can visualize the paper crumpling underneath the lure, destroying transfer accuracy as you go. Maybe you could put the paper on a sponge first, or roll the bait onto some of that el cheapo craft foam, which I already know is very soft and pliable. It would compress during the transfer, hopefully allowing a complete profile all the way to the tight curve running down the shoulder. Dead easy to cut accurately vs. paper. Or press the paper / foam onto the lure carefully rather than lure onto paper.