blazt*

I checked the other day...mine is 1250 watts. Older model. Is the clear HST you use the plasticky kind or the rubbery pvc kind? I'm wondering if my hd will do the job when I finally get some better HST.

All the way up to 40.

Ctex airbrush peals. My AB is siphon fed, though.

You bet. I think you'll love it. That bottle should last years unless you're producing. On the first experimental (and successful) pass I eyeballed about 10% future into the mix with some 4011. Future is thinner than any of my ctex ab colors pearls, so I'm going to try to develop a "minimally thinned" recipe to get better coverage. Also these pearls tend to seperate when overthinned. I'm running a siphon fed HF brush, so it might be a little more work for me. Results on the second day of testing weren't quite as good, but I've been shooting pearls heavily since I got the future and haven't put a cleaning rod through my brush since I got it maybe six weeks ago. I need to go buy some bad. I've yet to really soak it yet either. I ran a Qtip anywhere I could squeeze it though the barrel and got like 3 colors on the tip, but I know there's more in there. Nonetheless everything ran better than "before the future". But on the first day, as I said, results were great all the way down to 1/8" inch light lines. As I mentioned, I was anxious too see if my needle was stuck after shooting a bunch of pearls and flushing with half a jar of alchy. Not stuck at all, totally smooth.

Here's the MSDS: http://www.scjohnson.ca/msds/Pledge%C2%AE%20with%20Future%C2%AE%20Shine%20Premium%20Floor%20Finish.pdf

So I went to Walmart and got a bottle of Pledge Future because pearls were barely shooting through my .35mm tip. I added a just a little and it works great now. Before I had to dry fire (just air) between shots and backflush with the paint in the cup to keep it going...now I have no worries. I did a test patch, putting a coat of Future on a piece of plastic. I let it dry 20 minutes. 91% rubbing alc cleaned it right up. And there was a coupon hanging on the 27 oz bottle...less than a fiver out the door. Five stars unless it gives you cancer. We'll see if my needle is stuck this afternoon.

Pretty sure I saw a note on Predator's page that indicated 110 ko's were coming soon.

Could be that it's starting to cure in the jar, hopefully not - viscosity seems about the same as when new.

Dave, Do you know the wattage of the hair dryer you have tried? Mine is something like 1500 watts and it has more than enough juice to form my clear HST. The stuff you have is quite different, although I think the shrink temps are close to the same.

I emailed DN about this but it has been at least 3 days without an answer. I assume it's okay just wondering what grit is best, wet or dry, etc.

Is it okay to sand Dick Nite s81 before reclearing? I recoated a crank too soon, got some bubbles , need to take at least half of it off. By the time I'm ready for the job it will have been at least 3 days.

Brush it for sure. This is what I've been doing since I got my sample jar almost 2 months ago. Brushing it on is a little tricky. It can start to get gummy and stringy within less than a minute. Put too much on or brush too long and you'll get sags and/ or brush marks. 24 hours or more between coats. I've tried faster recoat times - once I melted the first coat. Friday bubbles developed within an hour on the back when I recoated after maybe 2 hours, when most of the solvent had flashed off and it was dry to the touch. This stuff takes a little bit of skill and experience. I put two sheet metal screws in the jar - one to pour, one for air. Never opened the lid. So far so excellent, but the rubber washers are starting to melt a little. Best to get the chemical resistant kind.

I've never tried it - but I'm sure it would affect the way a crank deflects. I can't see it altering the swim very much.

Ok, thanks. I haven't tried the sinking LC ko's. I was very tempted but I wasn't sure if the sink rate was agonizingly slow (good) or more like a countdown (not good).

Too bad most of those jerks are too light. I hate throwing a jerkbait on spinning gear. I would have got some 100 kos, but those are sinkers. Didn't want to take a chance on the "Predator jerk" .

The other poppers were a little too light for me, but I got a couple pop maxes. Can't wait to see how they spit.

Except for chartreuse eyes. There is a big hole in the market here in general, especially for over 7mm, and I bet I'm not the only one who wants them.

Is it true the 2.5 actually runs better with the bill corners filed round?

I'm actually glad to here this. I just ordered some 5mm ones...and I'd rather lose a split ring and hook than a lure, unless they are really weak.

When you rock the trigger back, does it feel normal or a little bit rough? With the rear cover off, can you see the needle moving fore / aft?

I just noticed on the top of Predator's site there's a notice: "Coming Soon 130mm Sammy" !!

Tape might be king in the end. But let's say the the soft PVC HST doesn't work that well - couldn't you at least use it as a template for cutting bill shaped masks from tape, maybe even color coding for top and bottom halves with green and blue tape?

I'm going to try one of the Sammys on your recommendation! How fast or slow do the rattlebaits sink?

Does anyone know if clear HST (heat shr tubing) with a rubbery texture is being produced at all? I was doing another lure Saturday and got a little crack in my stencil...as anticipated fatigue life is limited.

Also the Magic Swimmer clones? Might have to get one of those. And does anything else stand out as a really good producer at a bargain from Predator? Thanks.