Musky Glenn

Mark, the front was the rattle and the bottom moved front to back. I believe I am right on that. I believe it was 3/8 oz. about the size of a Bandit but still different. That chamber running front to back just doesn't seem to match anything that I have found. Thanks in advance.

This is a lure I found hanging in a tree and it has turned out to be one real good lure. I have caught a bunch of bass on this lure. I lost it under a rock that I couldn't reach. Notice the lip of the fish above the lip of the lure, notice the chamber running front to back inside the lure. I was not able to identify this lure while I had it. If you have any guesses please let me know.

Remember I told you I wasn't an authority on this stuff. I looked up the definition of lacquer and there is that word I said didn't belong in finishes. SOLVENT. What I meant by lacquer being lacquer based was the fact you thin lacquer with lacquer thinner. That is the way I always associated the two. Lacquer is a type of solvent-based product that is made by dissolving nitrocellulose together with plasticizers and pigments in a mixture of volatile solvents. Lacquer also contains a solution of shellac in alcohol that creates a synthetic coating, causing it to form a high gloss surface. If talking about exterior surfaces, there is some debate about the wisdom or switching water based and oil products. Exterior surfaces are subject to wide ranges of temperature, radiant heat from sunshine and humidity, to which interior surfaces are not. Oil paints are very hard and britlle and become more so with age. Oil also has a very low coefficient of expansion. "Latex" or acrylic paints expand greatly under these elemants. Therein is the debate about the advisability of mixing the two: Should you bind two surfaces together which are expanding at different rates? It is best to avoid the question and stick with one or the other on exteriors, especially if a house has had oil for decades. A poorly bonded oil finish can be ripped right off the siding by a well bonded acrylic paint which is schrinking as it dries! There are paint strippers on the market that use this phenomenon to break the bond of old exterior finishes - they bond then schrink causeing massive peeling! Primers and sealers provide an extra measure of assurance that the paint you use will adhere to its surface. In effect, primers and sealers are preparatory products that give the surface tooth that the paint can grip. -- Primers are formulated to adhere to the substrate and create a uniform surface for the finish coat. Primers stick to the surface; finish coats stick to the primer. Primers penetrate unpainted surfaces, smoothing out any porosity. Primers for wood, whether they are latex or oil-base, contain specialized ingredients that topcoats don't necessarily have, or have in lesser amounts. Stain-inhibiting tannin blockers or preservatives that are found in primers, for instance, are designed to soak into raw wood and seal it so the tannins don't bleed through and stain the finish paint. Primers for other surfaces have similarly specialized ingredients. Latex primers are best for unfinished drywall. On raw interior wood, oil-base primers may be a better choice because of their surface penetration. On the exterior, a latex primer will last longer because it's more flexible, expanding and contracting with changes in temperature instead of cracking. There are a number of different kinds of primers -- oil-base, shellac-base, water-base -- and each has its own specialty. Ask your retailer for a recommendation on which product to use on the surface you're painting. -- Sealers, closely related to primers, are formulated to make a porous surface non-porous. They are also used to cover knots and mildew to keep them from showing through the finish coats. You'll find oil-base sealers, as well as products with reactive resins and epoxies. Most of these products clean up with strong petroleum solvents.

I am not an authority on chemical composition by any stretch of the imagination. I have worked with a lot of different finishes on furniture and cabinets. I am going to list some things that I am pretty sure are correct. 1. solvent is not a term to be used when describing finishes. 2. You can put enamel paint over lacquer 3. You can not put lacquer over enamel (you may get lucky if the lacquer is applied thin so it can flash off quickly. 4. sanding sealers, varnishes are an oil base finish and can be thinned with paint thinner 5. polyurethane is also oil base but seems to be more moisture resistant than sealers and varnishes. 6. acrylic urethane is referred to as water based and can be cleaned up with water before it dries. 7. lacquer is lacquer based as is finger nail polish If you are using/planning to use these finishes, apply a good coat to a scrap piece of wood, let dry and place in a bucket of water over night. Notice changes in size, weight and depth it sits in water. Those are all products that I would suspect to give trouble from time to time. Mixing different chemical bases can cause trouble. Lacquer bonds by fusing with the layer under neath. The other finishes mentioned bond by adhering to the layer below. Thus the need to sand between coats. For me personally I stay away from these products because I have seen problems when trying to stop moisture from entering wood. Usually not a problem with lures, but sunlight kills these clear finishes over time. I know that many of you use some or all of these products with good results. Let me know if you do. If I have misrepresented any thing PLEASE let me know. I am thick skinned and want to be correct in what I have stated. Thank you, Glenn Grindstaff (Musky Glenn)

There is a chart in the "lure parts on line" cat. that list correct sizes for all spinner components. Very helpful.

Those are all good suggestions. I use nylon rod winding thread size A (small) or D (larger) I use finger nail polish over it and have never had a problem with it. It does build up fast.

One way you can help the situation some, is to run your air through a storage tank instead of straight off the air compressor line. It just gives you more volume this way. I didn't realize how small a volume of air some of those air compressors put out.

When you say the compressor won't keep up with the air brush, I believe the compressor won't supply enough cubic feet per minute. This is a different problem than how many psi it will furnish. The airbrush should specify how many cubic feet per minute it will require so that you can buy a compressor that will supply enough air. This was a big deal with a textured ceiling spray gun I used. It didn't require much pressure, but a load of volume.

Usually, when it fish eyes, it still dries hard but in a textured finish. My money is on old product that may have been sitting on the shelf to long. With paint and finishes the first thing to go wrong when old is slow or no drying.

For me, having never taken one apart, I love the adventure. What you got to loose?

If it was my own reel, I would probably go with a spray bomb can that doesn't require a top coat. You can spray some into a plastic cap and then air brush it if so desired. Musky Glenn

Place a funnel upside down over a small pan of boiling water. Place bicycle tube over funnel and slide rod into other end of bicycle tube. Let steam for a few moments. See how easy I made that sound. lol

On the same line of voodoo magic, how does Garcia (round reels) slow down the spool by tightening the cast control knob when the spool turns freely on two ball bearings on the spool shaft. Looks like to me if the shaft was locked down completely the spool would still be free floating.???? Thanks for any ideas

On bucktails I used rit dye after I had tied the jigs and I boiled them for a few minutes. I put clear finger nail polish on the jig head and it would take the dye also.

The ones I remember were tied with some kind of feather/hackle.

Mark, Not that I am aware of. I usually just sand off the high spots or take all the cork off and rebuild the cork grips. Just depends on how bad and how small I have to sand, I don't like small cork handles. If it is the fore grip, you can split the rings and glue them back around the rod with d2t. This will keep you from having to remove the eyes. Good luck.

Times 3 with JimP

Not trying to be smart, but how can you tell the noise is coming from the cast control?

glensoutdoors.com has them for 11.?? with free shipping on $50. orders.

Thanks for the help anyway. I knew you guys would know if any one did. New pair it is. Musky Glenn

I know this is off topic but didn't know any one more suited to ask than you guys. Have any of you ever tried to buff out minor scratches on sun glasses or to use any of the clear finishes that are used for top coats on lures. I have a few pairs that are good except for right where you look through them. Thanks in advance for any help. Musky Glenn

Of the two types of 30 minute epoxies that dubyap mentions only the first one is water proof. The second one is moisture resistant. The second one only has 2500 lbs strength. Couldn't find the strength of the first one but it will be higher. Not all 30 min. epoxies are water proof.

I made one for one of my first wooden boats and found out it doesn't take much angle to really affect the hole shot. I had an old power trim motor and hooked it up to one side of the tab. Good luck.

I have had the most luck finding those hard to find parts in a good plumbing or air conditioning shop.

Lure parts on line list the needed components to build different size spinner baits. They recommend 3/8 or 1/2 oz size for the size wire you mentioned. # 7 crane swivel, #2 ball bearing swivel, #5 Colorado blade, # 4 1/2 willow leaf blade, #3 stirrup clevis, 5/32 metal beads, #2 or 3 shaft blade colorado, #3 or 3 1/2 willow leaf shaft blade. Mix and match as you see fit. Good luck. This was from their 2014 cat. as I didn't look long enough to find their current cat.