Musky Glenn

On page 116 of the 2019 lure-craft cat. they offer the lure body, eye, and fin as a kit for $1.80 each in the following sizes, 1/8, 3/16, 1/2, 7/8 oz.

A difference of a few degrees will allow the hotter one to flow ahead of the cooler one. difference in thickness affects it also. Good luck.

Besides the bracket you will also need a blending block, and a seperater to tie both handles together. There are some close tolerances in those items but it is doable. I doubt you save any money over buying a ready made set. If I had the ten ounce size I would use it more than the twin injectors. Good luck

I have used TWS for other things but don't remember the finish being that smooth when dry. It might work but I know the wood glue will.

Thanks for the help.

When I say refills I mean, I make my pours with the amount of plastic in the injectors. Tear everything down, clean, put molds back together and reload the injectors. That is what I refer to as between refills. Not the time between each mold. Between the second and third mold is when it is setting up in the blending block. It is actually getting hard at the end of the second mold and these are just 4" minnow swim baits, small slinder baits. How hot can I safely heat the plastic. I'm using an infra red thermometer.

I am pouring four inch minnows in single cavity stone molds. Every thing seems to go nicely except by the time I pour the third mold the plastic in the blending block has set up. If i pour with one injector I can pour all four without any problem. It is just on the laminated colors that is giving me problems with the blending block. I am pouring at approx. 350 degrees. I am using Lure Craft medium blend plastic. How hot can I safely pour with out hurting the plastic? I try to pour fast between each mold but things cool way off between refills. Thanks for your help.

If you want to make sure you are not missing spots, hold the lure toward a light and let the light reflect off the surface. When you are at the right angle you won't be able to see color of the lure just the shine of the epoxy. It is very easy to rotate the lure and tell if you have missed any spots by the reflection of the light. I use epoxy and mix it on a flat piece of paper by making two puddles of resin and hardner of equal sizes. I just eyeball the sizes and it doesn't seem to make any difference if off a little in size. I stir the two puddles together with the same brush I am going to apply it with. My thought of your problem is that it might have something to do with the type of paint or maybe a sealer you are using. Epoxy is usually rather forgiving. Good luck. Musky Glenn

Does anyone have a suggestion for a good mold to pour (approx.) 3.5" paddle tail ring worm. Do the rings usually create a problem pouring? Which hardness of plastic is usually used for this type of pour? Thank you.

There is a handy chart on the bottom of page 100 in the Lurepartsonline catalogue. It gives the best combination of sizes of components used on standard spinner baits. It makes matching parts for different size lures so much easier.

I fish large spinner baits around a lot of fallen trees and it is nearly impossible to run a spinner bait through the limbs if it has a trailer hook. I don't have a problem with hooking fish and they stay hooked. Good luck

I noticed artificial stone molds are cheaper than alum. what is their down side? Would they work for someone pouring baits for themselves only?

I only use the closed loop. No R bends for me on any size. They just give less trouble with a snap.

I've caught a bunch of Bass on that bait in a different color. Maybe because I don't have that color. Great in my local river.

What purpose did the alum frame serve? Very nice idea.

Bending the wire shaft would be a good place to start, if that is the problem. Two pet peves of mine in commercials are when a spinnerbait add is shown with the lure coming through the water with both blades spinning and the skirt is flowing back with the hook hanging straight down. The other is a guy standing in a Trout stream fishing with a spinning reel with the reel turned up side down and winding backwards. They should have their man card revoked.

I believe the problem is in the different angles of the two wire shafts. The straight line of pull is from the line tie to the big blade, which means the small blade is coming through the water at an angle rather than straight through the water. Try the air pressure both from straight on and at a slight angle to see if that makes a difference.

I believe the piano wire will rust. Good luck.

My first guess is the shelf life of the paint has run out. Meaning it has some age to it. Try the paint on some sample and see if it dries without any heat, which it should, even though it may not work for a lure. That will eliminate the heat issue or tell you if it is age.

I would recommend you don't buy any tools until you build your first rod. Learn to pull NYLON thread through the pages of a heavy book to keep tension on the thread. Learn to secure the thread with the proper positioning of the ends of the thread. All this can be found on youtube videos. Get some 20-30 minute epoxy to use over your wrappings. If you have an old rod that needs work, strip the eyes off and rewrap it. This will let you know what tools you need and you can see where you need to improve.

Maybe someone with one of those kits will chime in, but I don't use one so I can't say how much easier it would be to build rods with one than without one. Have you built a few rods and see a need for one of those kits? I only build for my own enjoyment and don't see the need for that kit for me. The stands and turning motor would be nice but it can surely be done without. I would not have a use for the finish mixing bowl and the spline finding tool. Good luck.

Usually white thread will show the blank. Try a small area to see if it will work. Size A thread is more transparent.

I have had good luck with spray can lacquer in clear gloss. Dries quick and is durable. Couple of coats should do. Don't spray when humidity is high.

What BobP said.

Sunrise yellow over a chrome body gives a very bright gold color. It instantly changes from dull to shinny when it dries. There is a flash point when it is dry that it changes from dull to beautiful. Best gold I have found. Got to be applied over a chrome body.