Musky Glenn

Well Tater, your Colts may be ready to get better, they play my Carolina Panthers this weekend. (It's hard to say, good luck to the better team) But what I wanted to tell all my friends on here is GOBBLE TILL YOU WOBBLE! Musky Glenn

I usually use d2t type slow setting epoxy. Actually, I don't know if I have ever actually used d2t. What I am using right now is Permatex, Permaoxy 30 min. high strength epoxy. I believe it is rated at 3500 lbs. I have had trouble with Super Glue, Delayed setting epoxy (sets in 30 min.) and is rated for only 2000 lbs. I look for high strength, slow setting epoxy that looks clear in the package (one side usually has a slight yellow tint) I bought the Super Glue because it was clear in both tubes. Musky Glenn

I use lacquer from a spray can. I clean the rod as good as I want it, then spray over eyes and every thing down to the fore grip. Two minutes of hand turning and it is dry enough to not run. I still put d2t over the eye wrappings. Musky Glenn

I haven't had trouble with any of them. Mono seems to be harder on eyes than braided line, and that is only in eyes that don't have "ceramic" inserts. Just my $.02. Musky Glenn

This Carolina redneck loves this site. I have learned a bunch and met a great group of guys. Thanks for the site and all who have answered my questions over the past year. Musky Glenn

I'm by no means a good painter, but if you can get one lure right out of ten, then your equipment is ok, it will do the job because it did do the job. Paint thickness, air pressure, distance from the lure with the air brush, speed of travel with the air brush all can change instantly from one lure to the next or half way down a lure. My guess is you just need more practice to stabilize all the little things that make a big difference. I would also like to add, that is one more great looking paint job. Musky Glenn

Musky Gary, Thanks for the copper/purple combo. I will try a couple of those myself. Here in NC we have a hard time finding enough muskies to establish a good pattern. Every little bit of info really helps. Musky Glenn

Wood warps because moisture content changes inside of the wood. If you start with a dry piece of wood and seal it so moisture can't enter or exit, it will stay in the same shape. (Not counting putting external force on the wood, like trying to bend it with a vise) Lay a wet piece of wood on the ground and let the sun dry it. The sun will dry the top side and cause it to shrink and curl up, regardless of which way the grain runs. Musky Glenn

I put down a coat of clear nail polish on the bare hook then coat the wrappings with the same clear. It will last longer than I can keep up with the jig. I also use red and black finger nail polish for some lure eyes. My wife does the shopping! Musky Glenn

I second what Mark Poulson said. I have split a lot of pieces of wood with screws, by not predrilling a hole of the correct size. Place a drill bit over the screw shank and the threads of the screw should show on each side of the drill bit, but not the shank of the screw. That way, the only pressure, trying to split the wood is the screw threads, and that should be max. holding power. Those of you, twisting wire for screws, are on your own. Mark is right in running grain front to back, but if you look at it from the front you still have grain that goes horizontally or vertically. I would run it horizontally, that way, screws will be going through more different grains of the wood. The darker wood grains hold screws better than the softer lighter grain. Sometimes when hand sanding a tapered lure you can notice that the lighter grain will sand easier and actually create a low spot on the lure. Ever get one lure out of a bunch of identical lures that catch more fish than some of the other lures. I believe it has to do with the wood grain of that particular piece of wood, but can't prove that.

I don't use bucktails much because of the small amount of difficulty in tying them. I use flashabou on the black and silver. I use silicone on the all white one ounce. and I use Lumiflex on the white and chart. (This is hard to find and expensive but well worth the cost=great action) Lurepartsonline is where I like to buy supplies. Musky Glenn

If I could build a lure that would consistantly catch 20 lb. fish, I wouldn't change a thing. I would just figure out a way to replace broken tails while I smiled the whole time. Musky Glenn

I musky fished in Canada a few years ago and the hot color was lime skirts and Char. blades. Two weeks ago on Cave Run in Kentucky the hot color for muskies was black body and silver blades (#10's) My all time favorite is white/chart. body with gold willow leaf blades on a safety spin type spinner bait. In muddy water I have had good luck with an all white one ounce spinner bait with #7 and 8 willow leaf white blades. Hope this helps. Musky Glenn

I second RayburnGuy, and would add that the smaller the blade you use on a band saw the tighter the turn you can make, like around the tail end of a lure. After using one for years in my shop work and realizing how inaccurate they really are, I believe it would be hard to make bunches of identical lures that really are identical. Close but not identical. To much free hand work to be identical. Just my $.02 worth. Musky Glenn

I only use a pair of ROUND NOSE pliers. Musky Glenn

Have you tried Outdoor World at 417-873-5274 or Coastline Service Center at 919-736-3859. Musky Glenn

Go to a craft shop and buy a pair of ROUND NOSE pliers, makes all the difference in the world. Musky Glenn

Thanks for your help. Musky Glenn

I have made some replacement tails for my Shallow Invaders because the originals seem to hard to me. When I take an assortment of rubber worms and melt them down, they seem to be just right. Which hardness of new plastic most closely matches remelted worms. (Usually Zoom) Thanks in advance. I could do trial and error, but a quart will do all I need to do and hate to buy to much that won't work. I tried soft and it is way to soft. Musky Glenn

I have seen builders store them in zip Lock bags and hung on peg board. Very visible that way. Musky Glenn

How about twisting all the wires 1/2 inch beyond the body and let that be the bending point so no bending takes place next to the body. Also just a thought. Musky Glenn

The best thing you can do is keep on Bass fishing. lol Muskies are so adictive it isn't funny. Melton Hill is a super lake for Muskies. They have got some really large ones in there also. Cave Run in Kentucky is also good. I have caught more muskies on a 1/4 oz. bass size spinner bait than any other musky lure I own. They love blades. Look up "Double Cowgirls". Musky lures are shown on this web site all the time. I pour my own replacement tails for Shallow Invaders because I feel I need them more flexible than the factory ones. The Nolichucky River has some good muskies as does the French Broad River in E. Tenn. Lake Emory in Franklin NC is now being stocked with muskies as is Lake Cheoah, below Fontana Lake in NC. Musky Glenn

I only do a few lures at a time and use some type of slow setting epoxy like d2t. I brush it on thin, but enough to get full coverage and never turn or spin the lures, just hang to dry. No runs, no streaks, no errors. Musky Glenn

Why do you even need the front body? They can be attached very neatly with out any front body. Musky Glenn