Musky Glenn

Even if you have a design that does not infringe on someone else design, that does not mean that someone else won't sue you claiming it does infringe. How many small companies could stand the legal fight to prove they were right? Musky Glenn

Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. Musky Glenn

This may or may not help, but the #4 chart you reference to has some good information concerning buoyancy. Density, g/cc is a percentage of that wood to an equal amount of water. Alder is listed as .38 which means it is 38% as heavy as an equal amount of water. I believe this also means that a piece of Alder (when dry) will sit with 38% of itself underwater and 62% above water (approximately). Musky Glenn

To minimize waste get a siphone (?) feed airbrush that takes the paint bottles attached to the bottom of the brush. With this you only clean out what paint is in the brush itself. Even with that on a small lure you will probably still waste more than it takes to paint the lure, that's just the nature of the job. A two ounce bottle goes so far that it just is not a big deal. You will probably end up using more white base than all your other colors put together. Buy in larger quantities saves money also. Musky Glenn

Excellent videos. I like the simple design. Musky Glenn

Most Createx paints come pretty close to how it needs to be thinned. Open a bottle of Createx and try to match that. To thick won't spray through the airbrush, add more water in small amounts. To thin and it runs easy and doesn't cover well, add more paint, stir and try again. I know that isn't the answer you were looking for, but the thickness of different paints is not uniform, some just need more thinning than others. You will develope an eye for how thick it needs to be. I would rather be on the thin side than the thick side. If it is to thick, it won't spray enough to tell what you need to do. Have a scrape area to test spray the airbrush at so you can get it adjusted before you point it at anything important. I found that I wanted to spray to heavy of a coat when learning. Spray light coats, dry, spray again. It is amazing how much better paint looks after you put the clear coat on, especially black. Keep a damp rag handy and wash it off and do it over. One thing I learned from Tiger was to get the basic pattern good, add a top coat of clear and do the rest of the pattern and that is as far down as you need to remove paint if you mess up after that point. Good luck

I may have read your question wrong. Lure Parts On Line have the heads, not sure about a mold to pour that style head. Sorry for the confusion. Musky Glenn

Lure Parts on line have them. Musky Glenn

I think most epoxies are similar if they look similar in the package. I like 5 min epoxy for gluing only. I like the 30-60 min epoxies for finish work. It gives more working time and doesn't seem to trap air before they pop. I mix mine on a flat surface and stir it quickly with the same brush that I am going to apply it with. This just doesn't seem to create many air bubbles. Musky Glenn

Thanks Bobp, that will be my first try. I appreciate the help. Musky Glenn

I have a request to paint some lures similar to the blue mackeral used on Rapala lures. Does anyone have a suggestion for the color of blue to use and is that one of those colors that must be painted over chrome to achieve the look desired. I appreciate any suggestions to get me on my way. Thanks in advance, Musky Glenn

Super looking handle, I hope it catches a bunch for you.

This may not apply to your problem, but here goes. We used to have a lot of trouble putting new lacquer over an unknown original finished piece of furniture. Lacquer that we used is not water based and it would quickly "wrinkle" the original finish. The original finish would be softened and could be scraped off easily in some spots. I would not think lacquer is compatible with water based paints. It had a lot to do with how wet the first coat of lacquer was applied. If it was thin enough to dry very quickly, few problems. But if the first coat was wet, then it took longer to tack off and the wrinkling happened more often. This was furniture quality lacquers we were dealing with. Maybe this will help. I'm sure someone on here has more experience with this problem than me. Musky Glenn

Great question, on page 23 of the "Lure Parts on line" catalogue they give a good chart showing spinnerbait component size compatibility. That is also a great place to order parts. Musky Glenn

I agree with t-Billy, bend the wire. The line creates a straight line with the resistance and the blades are the resistance. Thus the line and blades run in a straight line and the weight or head hangs below on what ever angle the wire frame is bent to. I hate spinner bait commercials where they show the hook hanging out the bottom of the skirt. I also keep my wire bent so the blades are closer to the head than most lures are designed for, just runs better for me. Musky Glenn

Sure looks better than the 4X8's we used to build and slay the white bass with. Good luck and that is a beautiful boat. Musky Glenn

ebay might be a good place to buy it. There are usually a few auctions carrying flashabou. Lure parts on line also has it as does Rollie and Helens Musky Shop. Musky Glenn

I use a small oil less Sears air compressor that I run into a 5 gal. air storage tank and then spray off the tank pressure. My compressor is loud and is made with out a storage tank, so that is how I spray without the compressor kicking on and off so often. I just turn it on and off manually as the pressure drops below 40, even with most of my spraying being done at 20 #. Works good for me. I would think the spray gun would be ok also. I can't do fine work with my Iwata with out stencils, I know it is just me, but that is the reality of all I can do. Musky Glenn