Musky Glenn

Great work on a couple of beautiful lures. Musky Glenn

Thanks Vodkaman, That even cleared up some of the confusion for my dense skull. Musky Glenn

I know all those things are important, but the one that drives me up the wall is internal weighting. I just can't seem to get the musky lures to perform correctly. Amount of weight? Front, Center or back? Top, middle or bottom? More than one internal weight? Trial and error takes forever if you don't hit on correct choices quickly. If you are wrong, then you must sacrifice that lure to correct the problem when working with wooden lures. Musky Glenn

Congratulations on a great looking lure. Only thing to make it look better is a large bass hanging off the rear hook. Musky Glenn

I use an epoxy that states it is made for "Do It Best" brand. Similar to Devcon, clear, 60 min. set time. I brush it on and one large musky lure is about all I can do before it starts to tack off. By brushing on thin I don't have to use a turning wheel. One coat does the job and seems to last good. No peeling problems or undue hook wear problems. Sometimes I wonder if it has to much shine? Is there something similar that doesn't shine quite as much, would love a spray on type. Thanks for the help. Musky Glenn

Spinner baits need tuning ever once in a while. Which ever side the blades lean to is the direction you bend the wire arm to correct this tilt. The line tie, hook and blade arm should be in a straight line when looked at from front or back.

I had a 15' jon boat that didn't have a middle seat and they hadn't done anything special to strengthen the sides. This was from the factory that way. I would recommend that you don't use a strap across the top of the boat to attach it to the trailer, which would tend to pull the sides in. Just use the front eye and the two back eyes to hold it on the trailer, if you use a trailer. Musky Glenn

Looks like "fisheye" to me. That is where the finish separates because of oil, usually, or silicone or wax. You can just recover with another coat if you have the time to watch them closely as they dry and keep the finish spread until it tacks off. This may require taking a brush and smoothing the finish out where it separates until it gets dried just enough to stop the creeping. Sometimes it is caused by the paint that it is being placed over. I use disposable brushes that I buy in large lots of 50 to the pack. I just happened to find them at a "as seen on tv" store in Cherokee, NC. They are made in China and these were 50 for $1.00. I bought 200.

The front blade should spin even if it overlaps the back blade. I don't believe there is a void of water between the head and the front blade. I have cured this problem a few times by making sure the legs of the clevis are paralle to each other. If you look at the photo on the right you can see they are splayed open. You can get them to spin in air, but they won't in water, they spin at different angles, which puts pressure differently on the shaft. This is a great web site, I really enjoy the information shared. Musky Glenn

In a pinch you might be able to take a 1/8 oz. ball head mold and bore out each end to get the football jig shape. Eye will probably stick up higher than a normal football jig head. Just a thought. Musky Glenn