Musky Glenn

I'm using it on musky lures and two thin coats is more protection. I brush it on thin and just hang to dry. Every bit as good as d2t. Get the 30 min type. I buy the 9oz. size which is two 4.5 oz bottles. Not overly crucial about exact mixing proportions. I just eye ball amounts, works for me. Good luck.

When chasing surface feeding white bass, I have had good luck with a large body and small blade and small amount of feathers. Throw it on bait caster a mile. Very good when feeding on small bait.

I would match it to a known quality lure for size of components. Also looks like the clevis may be bent together, legs need to be straight, not bent in or out. Clevis needs to be loose on the wire shaft.

Looks like one of the small H20 lures.

Good eye gaspumper, I missed that when I looked at it the first time.

I only use single action and those brushes will do you just fine. You will find the single action much easier to learn to use. You adjust the amount of paint by adjusting the needle at the end of the air brush. Just screw it in or out to get the desired pattern. The trigger only turns the air on where the pressure is controlled by the separate air regulator.

Thiko, I believe the product you are refering to is "Spar Varnish". This is different chemically from urethane. They used spar varnish for the finish on wooden boats for years and had to go back and redo them every few years. I never found primer, sealers or products made for the home wood work industry to be very suitable for actually water proofing anything. Any end grain really makes it hard to get a water tight seal by soaking in and sealing the wood pores. It seemed to me that a product that lays on the surface and covers the end of the wood cells (end grain) did a better job of keeping the water out. Keep in mind also that after the first coat of "whatever" on the wood, you are technically painting and adhearing to the first coat of whatever and not to the wood. As a test, take a few wooden blocks and measure the thickness and width accurately coat with your first coat of whatever, let dry completely. Throw them in a bucket of water over night and measure them the next day and see how much they changed size if any. If they changed, they soaked up some water and your coating didn't do its job. Length wont change much but thickness and width will. That is the easiest way to tell if your methods work or not.

drdmh, which model Badger do you have? I have three model 200 single action. When I press the trigger, with out air pressure, I can feel the return spring push the trigger back up, does yours return to the top or stay down?

That color Bagley was discontinued for several years, way back yonder, and to get Bagley to run a batch we had to buy 5 dozen at a time. Don't know how many times we bought those 5 dozen at a time. We knew they wouldn't last but they sure did catch fish. Some years that was the hot ticket and some years they wouldn't touch them. Must have had to do with the condition of the crawfish at that time. That was mostly Bass fishing.

Mark, that is asking a lot of finger nail polish. lol I have two of these Bagley lures that I keep put up just to remember THE day. The musky that did this was only eight pounds.

Some of the spy baits I use have the prop with small washers on each side and they really spin easily.

I usually repaint mine when they first start looking bad. My muskies are to far apart to have many wore out. I have ruined more than a few by repainting a good working lure to have it never raise another musky. If the action is right I would just fish it right on to the end. I am odd about color but I also realize it is not near as important as action, I think, sometimes, maybe.

I would also be happy to hear some comments or suggestions as I had a glide bait 2 years ago that never would glide but to one side. Thank you.

There could be reasons for buying instead of making your own lips. If it is a one off replacement for one lure, at $.49 cents for one lip, it would be hard to recover the cost of tools and materials to make one lip. If it is a one off situation it truely would be a tail wagging the dog situation. Good luck.

The first one I found was in the 2016 Musky Shop catalogue. It is number 21 on page 144. The only difference that I can tell is it has rounded corners instead of coffin, this could easily be fixed if necessary. I would call and verify size as I just measured from the book. Good luck.

I believe a lot of your problem is in the mounting of the transducer on the trolling motor. When you turn your trolling motor the screen should change as well. As you said it probably is getting dizzy. I would rig up a quick disconnect and mount it to the back of the boat so that it will always be in line with the direction of the boat. Then, what looks to the right will really be to the right. You can still mount the screen on the front of the boat. The screen shot shows 10 + volts, that is a near dead battery. My motor will start at a lower voltage than the depth finder will operate at. Good luck.

I don't know which Harbor Freight air brush you are using, but I pulled up a schematic for HF 95810 airbrush and it shows an o ring as part # 5. It also shows a packing and packing nut that I suspect is the problem. Good luck.

As a last resort for that o ring problem, I would remove the old one and try teflon plumbers tape, being careful to get all ends in correct place before putting together. Might work.

You may be using the wrong thinner for that paint. I believe it is xylene based and needs that to clean up with. I don't know what xylene will do to your brush, if anything.

Here in Western North Carolina, shad are the major food source. Ghost shad has been good along with several other shad colors. But I always keep a fire tiger handy just to make it more visible in a school of shad. That odd color does work from time to time.

My musky rods operate in the weight range you are talking about and I find that the middle of the weight range is where they feel the best . 2-6 oz. -probably be best with 4 ounce lures. Just my $.02.

Try it with plain water to see if it will spray, if it will, paint is to thick. If it doesn't you have an internal problem like dirty. Good luck.

I recently had a problem with my Badger 200nh pulsating while spraying. I found that there is a nylon bushing that the needle goes through that had enlarged and was causing air to leak around this bushing. Upon removing the bushing I noticed that there was unwanted dried paint just in front of the bushing. I suspect something like this is binding your needle. The fix on my bushing was to seat the old one just a little harder and it compressed back tight around needle. I pushed it out with a drill bit and back in with same drill bit. Good luck.

Take your best glide bait and just lay it in the water. Mine sink like a rock, maybe not quite that fast but they only stay up because of how I work them. If it suspends in the water it will probably float on the surface. Unless you put some mechanism to make it sink below the surface. Just my $.02.

Those lures look great. Some of the guys painting foil are using the "copic" (spelling) ink systems. That really is a transparent ink.