Musky Glenn

Just a guess on my part, but if everything is tight, I would think part 27-1 might be the problem with the leak. I use tools to tighten even though they say finger tight for most parts. Google your air brush and you will find suppliers of parts. I would probably buy that whole bottom part and make sure to get the right part.

Not what your looking for but the MuskyShop has 1.95" for $.60 each right or left.

My thought was, do we really need any fins? A lot of good glide baits don't have any fins. Weight placement might be the answer. $.02

Like Woodieb8 I spend a lot of time thinking of beautiful lures and paint patterns. Some turn out nice but most just make a nice warm fire the next morning. Still always fun and I enjoy the chatter that goes on. I always learn something new.

Mark, I paint mine like you do and clear them with d2t. Just hang to dry. Good luck.

Was the aluminum water based? What was the purpose of the Aluminum? I'm guessing the paint and the aluminum don't play well together. Good luck.

I had the same problem with different brands and just took them to a good plumbing shop where they had all kinds of fittings to make it work. Good luck

I'm betting the shelf life on the Krylon has run out. Try applying it to a clean piece of paper or scrap piece of wood to see if it will dry somewhere NOT over paint. Good luck.

Try putting the paint in a different container like a squirt bottle so you can dispense the small amount you need at one time.

I use a small bolt and nut, spin with a drill. Bolt goes through small spool.

Closed eye and snap instead of split ring.

I use nylon rod wrapping thread. May not lay as flat as a flat thread but doesn't break while tying. For looks I try to keep my length of wrap shorter. Don't like a long wrap.

I tie all my musky jigs, bucktails and spinner baits with finger nail polish to seal the nylon thread that I use for tying. Never have a problem. Nail polish seems to out last the Lumaflex skirts I use.

Chuck those are some great looking baits. Good use of Maribou on last crank bait, don't know how that will look in the water but nice in photo. I really had to look for something to complain about and it is more about spinner baits in general than it is about yours. You see it in commercials all the time. The spinner bait is coming through the water, the blade arm and line are in a straight line and the hook is hanging straight down out of the skirt. I don't know if a bass cares but that always bothered me. To get a spinner bait to run straight through the water you need to bend the arm to the head so the head is more parallel with the blade arm. It closes up some space between head and blade but really doesn't hamper hooking. I always thought a spinner bait should be shaped more like a buzz bait. All the spinner baits I tie for myself are the same way and I just bend the wire where it comes out of the head. Yours look like very nice spinner baits.

All good answers and I understand grain runs front to back, but it should also run horizontally instead of vertically. The screw eyes should go in through multiple layers of grain rather than running between two layers of grain. Works easy for bottom hooks, but front and back not so much so try to angle front and back screw (up or down) so it goes through more than one layer of wood grain. A screw going in following the wood grain tends to push those two wood grains apart. Belly hook going through multi layers tends to hold wood grain layers together. A good idea on front and back screws is to drill larger hole and fill with epoxy so screws don't have a wedge effect.

Inconclusive, no muskies were used in the testing! Just kidding, nice comparison.

We all do what we have to do, but there is also the point of missing some of the fun of fishing by trying to stay comfortable in a "wiggly" boat. Be safe

Braided line times 2

www.mudhole.com is your friend. Great how to's and all materials needed.

Don't know if this will help you, but I am using the Do-it Sea Horse lure mold PHC -3-L which is the 3/4 to 1.5 oz size for Stripers. This is the best pouring mold that I use. It always pours complete. Only problem is making sure the swivel is in correct place. Good luck.

Easiest way is to make the two slides smaller, by the amount the blade likes cutting the exact slot size. This way you never have to adjust anything, you just move the jig to the opposite side of the slot and run again. Just my $.02. Good luck.

Spine is caused by the layering effect of how they make rods. Usually there is a thicker side to a rod blank and this causes the spine. Another way to find spine is to lay the large end on the edge of a table with the tip end sticking off the table. Rotate the rod slowly and see if it raises or lowers the tip as you roll the big end across the table slowly. If there is no difference that is unusual and is easier to build as you can turn it which ever way you wish.

MonteSS, sometimes the obvious is not out of the question, try #8 trebles. We troll live minnows on three way swivels with the minnow on a # fourteen treble and they don't have any trouble with the smallmouths. Just an idea.

Maybe we need a different way to hold the hook instead of friction on the side of the hook. How about some kind of finger that pulls the hook tight in to a grooved slot of some kind. $.02 again.

Thanks hazmail, Let me know what you find out. The lures I am wanting is the kinami Crank bait in ghost shad color or watermelon shad color. Seller information justackle (11822 ) 100% Positive feedback Kinami GHOST SHAD crankbait fishing lure NIP AUD 6.30 Buy It Now 28d, AUD 8.50 Shipping, 14-Day Returns, eBay Money Back Guarantee: Get the item you ordered, or your money back! Seller: justackle (11,822) 100%, Location: Burnie, Tasmania, Ships to: AU, Item: 262490791444 Description All are NIP with all hardware!! 1-Kinami GHOST SHAD crankbait The Kinami Crank is a medium diving crankbait which has a narrow lip which