CedarLakeMusky

Is anybody trying the low odor low voc version of this stuff? CLM

Check out diamond ll.com. They have self sealing inserts that will fit in top on bottle plus syringes. They also have pumps and other style caps. Look under epoxy accessories. I ordered the insert, syringe package for around 5 dollars. The inserts I ordered were to small so I drilled a hole in the etex bottle caps to make them work. Clm

Thanks cougarftd.

What light are you using? CLM

It looks like the vinyl ester epoxy UV cure resin on their website could possibly work also. Product # 71590. CLM

It sounds like it is self leveling? I assume the brush marks disappear when brushed on? CLM

Could a black light bulb be used? From what I'm reading online they produce uva?

Wondering how it would hold up to Musky, Pike and other toothy fish? CLM

*Diemai, Thank you for the website info. *Matt M, Thank you for supplying Todd Larson's name. I emailed him with a picture of the lures and he had the name and dates for them all!! *Agarfalo, I will try contacting the guys and joeyates.com. Thank you.

Thanks for the help Lincoya CLM

Wasn't really sure where to put this but I figured this would work. Might be alittle off topic but I think vintage lures are really cool! I was given and old tacklebox full of lots of stuff and found what I think are old lures? I was wondering if I could get alittle help with identification and year. The order I will go in is top to bottom left to right. *Rapala Original Floater Year? *South Bend Bass Oreno Year: Late 40's *South Bend Bass Oreno? Maybe too Short Year? *Rapala Original Floater Year? I think it's older than the first one. *Make? Year? *Make? Year? *Fred Arrogast Jitterbug Year? *Make? Year? *Kautzky Lazy Ike Year? *Brook's Reefer Year? *Bomber Lures Deep Runner Year? Original Box and Paperwork *Same as Above *Heddon Meadow Mouse Year? Thanks for any info in advance CLM

I noticed they make a 400/21 but I can't seem to find how it is different from the 300/21 on their website. I did notice that is costs more.

I got it!!! I switched to a single clevis and the blades spin easily with just a light pull of the rod. I think I will be using single clevises from here on out. Thanks everybody for all your help. Can't wait to get my first fish on it!! CLM

I adjusted the S-clevis and the blades seem to spin easy. I tried it out and still seem to have the same issue. Sometimes they will spin with a jerk of the rod. I think I will try two single clevises like suggested. When you hold the spinner vertical the bottom edge of the blades should clear the bucktail right? I know that was my first problem. They were touching the bucktail so I added more beads. Now the blades clear the bucktail by about 3/4 of an inch. I was also wondering if the postion of the blades to the lure body plays a role in the blades spinning? I keep having to cut my wire shaft and place the components on a new shaft when making adjustments. I suppose there is no way around this other than wrecking a wire shaft by trial and error? Thanks for all the help so far. CLM

Smalljaw, I have a mm double showgirl where the blades are set like mine. The only difference is they use two single clevises and I'm using one double clevis. Don't you want both blades color or print facing the line tie. If I switch the bottom blade the cup of the blade will face the line tie and the print will face the skirt. I am new to making inline spinners so I don't know much about it. I will give your idea a try. Thank you.

I built an inline double bladed bucktail and I can't get the blades to spin. Once in awhile they will spin if I jerk it but not every time. I have #10 blades in it. I have read some previous posts for info and changed a few things on it. Added some more beads. I was wondering if somebody could give me some pointers. I will attach a picture.

What is the shore hardness of E-tex?

I have noticed that some line ties are horizontal and some are vertical on glide baits. Does this play a role in the action of the lure? Thanks, CLM

Held the temp gauge over element roughly where my lure would be. Temp was around the 200 F mark. Think I will scratch that idea and stock up on light bulbs. CLM

I was bouncing around the internet and come across this: http://lurelayouts.com/index.php?main_page=index Worth looking at. CLM

I just thought of something after hazmail's post. I have a temp gauge that I use on my nitro rc truck to make sure to engine is not running to hot. I can use the gauge on the coffee pot element. There is a little device on the element like a relay that you can hear click on and off. That's a good idea Crankpaint to run is for 8 hours and for sure try it somewhere safe. CLM