CedarLakeMusky

I always try to run my heated box between 80-90 degrees. Like BobP said and Etex states do not exceed 100 degrees F. I had the temp climb in my box once after not checking it for awhile. Didn't have the dimmer switch set right. It was around that 100 degree F mark and the etex bubbled on the lure. It wasn't the end of the world I just let it dry, sanded some and recoated. I don't want to make a habit of that so I check the drying box often. Mixing equal amounts and mixing well is the most important part.

Thank you RG and EdL.

Etex usually dries to touch in 8 hours at 70 degrees, but it can take up to 72 hours to hard cure at 70 degrees. Humidity does play a role in cure time. Under 50% humidity is best. We have our days in the summer in MN with high humidity. I built a heated drying box for my lures and I usually run the temp between 80-90 degrees. I can touch and recoat the lure in less than 8 hours. I always let my lures set for at least 3 days after final topcoat before I fish them. Mixing 1/1 resin to hardener is important and mixing well is important. I mix my etex for 5 minutes and let is set for 15 minutes. Fat Fingers did a how to tutorial which helped me alot. Here is the link. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12510-trying-to-achieve-a-flawless-finish/ CLM

I found a coffee pot that was busted up but the heating element was still intact. I have the element, switch and all the wires. Right now I am using a light bulb in my drying box. According to the news the standard light bulb will be replaced in the near future. I was wondering if anybody has tried something like this or thinks it might work for a heat source. I have plugged it in and it heats up. One thing I noticed is it heats up then shuts off for about 8 minutes then turns back on again. Most coffee pots have an auto off but I left this plugged in for awhile and it seems to stay on that 8 minute cycle. Any comments or ideas would be great. Thank you, CLM

Thought I would share my drying wheel that I made with everyone. I built a box out of plywood and 1" framing. Insulated with 3/4" styrofoam. I use a bbq rotisserie to turn the lures, dowel rod for the axle, and plywood for the wheels. I use a light bulb on a dimmer switch to control the heat. All in all it seems to work pretty well. CLM

I made this glider (pic below) which is alittle over 7 inches long and 3/4 inches wide. It is made out of cedar and I was trying to get it to sink slowly or have neutral bouyancy. Instead I have a floating glider like the one you are talking about grey ghost. I don't remember the amount of weight I used but I did put it around the belly hook hanger trying to get it to sink horizontally. It glides downward just under the surface maybe up to a foot then floats back to the surface. When I cast it out and just retrieve it has a lazy belly roll action. I really wanted it to sink but back to the ballast board on the next one. I have tried it off my dock and have had a number of strikes by northern pike and have caught one pike. I hope it will caught me that big musky when the season opens it June.

There is a company called Smooth-On that make a product called Feather Lite. It says it floats in water. I have been wanting to try it but I am still making lures from wood. Maybe that would work for you. If someone has tried it maybe they can comment on it? http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1120_1162/index.html CLM

Do you need to replace the O ring after every deep cleaning? I am knew to airbrushing and have never taken mine totally apart for a good cleaning. CLM

Did you seal your wood blank before you painted it? What kind of topcoat did you use? If you are fishing toothy fish I would put mutiple coats of etex on. You need to wait around 8 hrs between coats and sometimes longer. After your final coat is on I would wait at least 72 hrs before fishing. CLM

I have been building crankbaits for a while now but I don't really know how deep they can run. You can cast from your boat or dock but I don't think that gives you a real good idea. I was wondering if there is a general formula? I know that trolling should get you deeper than casting. I am only looking for estimates in both casting and trolling, its probably almost impossible to get an exact depth. Well maybe if you have scuba gear . Thank you for any info CLM

I have used both and each seem to be working fine for me so far. I haven't had either one break on me yet. I make pike and musky lures which average 6-9 inches. I was curious about how they compare to one another so I searched around on the internet and found this website: http://www.hydrosigh..._vs_acrylic.php I was wondering what other members are using and what your past experiences have been with each of them? Thanks, CLM