CedarLakeMusky

Nathan, I just received my LPTC. I was wondering if you have had any storage issues with it so far? Thanks, CLM

Thank you for responding. I have used it a few times now and seems to do the job so far. It is my first airbrush so I'm sure there are better ones. I couldn't beat the price for just starting out. CLM

Does anybody know anything about a Dura-Block Air Force airbrush? It doesn't say anywhere what the needle size is? The manual says its a model AF 1011 but the airbrush says 1005 on it? It is a dual acton top feed and it says patterns range from a thin pencil line to a broad spray. I was wondering if someone could tell me how to find out what the needle size is. I called the 800 # on the manual but they didn't know either. They basically read the info out of the manual to me. Any info would be great. Thank you, CLM

Hi Jeff, I haven't tried all epoxies but I have tried D2T and Etex. I like Etex better even though it takes longer to cure. You can get by flipping D2T for awhile and then let the lure hang to dry. It sets up in about 30 minutes and can be handled in 2 hrs or so. Full cure in around 8 hrs. Etex takes longer to set up so I wouldn't recommend hanging the lure because the Etex will run. You will need to build a drying wheel to rotate your lure. Etex can take up to 8 hrs or sometimes longer to set where you can handle it. Full cure is around 72 hrs depending on temperature. You will also need to put on 3-5 coats. I tried D2T and didn't care for it as topcoat. It is a glue epoxy and it is brittle so it didn't hold up well to musky and pike teeth. It sounds like alot of guys that build bass lures use D2T and it seems to work for them. Etex is made to cover wood like bar tops so it is made to move with the wood. D2T is quicker but IMO Etex gives you a better finish even though it takes longer. Hope this helps. CLM

Hi, Nathan I just ordered some of this from Dick and should be getting it soon. I was wondering did you thin out just what you needed or did you thin the whole container? Also I was wondering if you sanded the DN plastic before you painted? Thank you CLM

Thank you for the info Bob. CLM

Does Etex have a shelf life? Should it be used up in a certain amount of time? Thank you for any info CLM

I have thought about buying one of those plug in timers so I can control how long it runs. CLM

I am fairly new at wood lure building also. I already had a bandsaw so shaping lures was easier. I wish the sanding and finishing wasn't so tedious, but that is very important to getting a good looking lure. I also have been hand painting lures, but just purchased an airbrush. My opinion is I think you need an airbrush to get a better paint job. Hand painting has to many straight lines between colors and not as even of a coat. I think you can blend colors better with an airbrush. Water based paints are easier to work with. You want a good wood sealer before you prime or paint. I have tried D2T as a topcoat, but thought it was to brittle for pike/musky lures. I think D2T works great for and extra seal coat. It also has some build so it hides some sanding imperfections before you prime and paint. You can sand it after is cures so primer/paint adheres. I personally like Etex for a topcoat, but have not tried all of them yet. It takes a few coats but it is not as brittle and more flexible over wood. I am experimenting with counterweights. But what I have learned so far is putting the weight towards the back will make it cast farther with less dive. Putting the weight towards the front will cast shorter with more dive. Also where you put the weight changes the action of the lure. I think alot of that is trial and error. Lips are also trial and error. What I have learned is the more horizontal the lip is the deeper the lure drives, but the shape of the lip and how bouyant your lure is also plays a role in the action. LIke I said earlier, I am fairly new at lure building also, but I hope this helps. Really when you look at the whole picture, it is all alot of trial and error. CLM

Hi, I was wondering when you seal a raw wood lure blank with D2T if it soaks into the wood. I have used etex and it really soaked into the wood. It didn't cover any flaws or the grain of the wood. It also takes awhile to dry. I was looking for something that would level off nice and cover the wood grain or any flaws. Does D2T work well? I would assume I could sand D2T and when it dries paint my lure? Thank you for any info. CLM

Cool Video Jeep! CLM

Dick, I would like to try the new DN2 on my musky lures!! CLM

Any water trap that I have seen, the valve should be tight during operation. You loosen the valve to drain the water. Maybe you have a bad water trap? CLM

To everyone who got a sample of the new DN. How do you think it would hold up on Musky and Pike lures? Would it be possible for me to get a sample to try? I know he is still testing the new formula and it may change some but I wouldn't mind giving it a whirl. CLM

To Mark or anyone else. I have thought about putting a complete topcoat of D2T on the lure and then putting 2-3 coats of Etex. Have you ever tried this? Do you think this would make a tougher lure? Just thought I would put my idea out there. I am sure somebody out there has tried this. Thanks for the help CLM

Those are all good ideas. I will try them out and see how it works. Thanks RM

I made my first jointed lure and put Etex on as a top coat. I fished it for the first time and after awhile I noticed the Etex was lifting where the two joints of the lure make contact. Mainly at the four corners. The rest of the lure seems fine. I scraped of the bad spots and recoated with Etex again. I left the lure set for a few days and fished it again. After a while the same thing happened it was lifting where the corners of the jointed lure would make contact. You can pick the Etex off with you finger nail down to the paint. Shouldn't Etex hold up better being it is flexible? Has anyone else had problems like this? I have put it on all my other lures with no lifting problems. CLM

I think all epoxies should be brushed on. I have used d2t and etex and I have never had a problem with it running. But you do need to rotate the lure. CLM

Jeremy I have also noticed that Etex seems to attract dust. How many coats of Etex where you putting on? Did it seem to hold up well when caughting musky? Thanks for letting me know about Diamond II. Scott