SHK

I would look at Bear or Bass Tackle, and specify in writing that you are having this mold made exclusively for you. you will have to pay a premium but the design is yours.

in order for the paint to really adhere to the bait you need a vinyl based paint (and they stink something bad as you have experienced) but like Frank said, i dont paint just a few at a time, i will wait until i have a couple hundred, if you waited until you had 25 or so it would make things a little easier in that regard. i believe that it was Frank that once posted a link to an ebay site where you could get cheap air brushes for $10 - $20. i bought 10 brushes and a manifold and havent looked back. Yes you have to clean them out after and it can be a pain sometimes but that is all a part of the game.

is there a difference in the plastic? the way it is heated? the ONLY difference is how the plastic enters the mold. so why should it be different. if i heat it in a microwave to pour or inject i still heated it in a microwave.

they are roto-cast in a rotational mold. and you might wanna tell this guy that its not possible to do at home. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21746-moss-mouse/page__p__161982__hl__%2Bmoss+%2Bmouse__fromsearch__1#entry161982

any of the usual mold makers will make you a custom mold based on your design im pretty sure, but expect to pay a fair bit more for it to keep it exclusive to you. you have to pay the full design costs plus the machining costs. as far as bags go, best prices i have seen are from Johnson Bag, around $200.00 - $250.00 per colour plate (2 colours = $400 - $500) plus 10,000 bag min order. So, about $500 for plates, and almost $800 for bags.

LMAO

spin the injectors and block 90 degrees LOL. Doesnt look like it will be any different than any other multi cavity mold.

what ever Frank, I'm not arguing about this. i stated my opinion, and also stated in my first post about this There is a reason that there is 4-5 types of injectors out there being used, was just posting that the one in question is in my opinion nowhere near as "dangerous" as you and a couple others are making it out to be. If you don't like it, tough!!!!

the issues i had with Kevins injector came down to thickness and the pin getting in the way with changing the tips. Del's, it was just a pain in the butt with the threaded tip. funny Frank, i had a nozzle fall off once into the cup and that was all, havent had one fall off unintentionally in around 2 years

it absolutely does have everything to do with common sense. if you stick your hand in a pot of boiling water are you gonna do it again? if you push the tip too far it will pop off (as it was designed to do) most rest it against the side of the cup or pot or hold a gloved finger over it. as i said before it may not fit everyone's style of injecting, which is why there are several available. i have used Del's, BT and Bear's and like using Bear's, i have far fewer issues with it.

all it takes is a little common sense when using it. if you push the plunger all the way to the end it WILL push the tip out, i put a gloved finger on the tip when evacuating and no issues with tips falling off. everyone has their own way of doing things, and one injector may suit your style of injecting, but with a little common sense it is far from dangerous

no it wont work "IN" your plastic, their scents are all water based.

the "Green" Plastisols are just Phthalate free. As soon as you add your colour, scent or softener to your plastic you are re-introducing phthalates to your plastic. most colourants use either worm oil or softener (dinp) as the base oil, and both are rich in phthalates. "Diisononyl phthalate (DINP) is a phthalate used as a plasticizer."

i got the same first email, as soon as i saw " HARD PLASTIC FISHING LURE" in the first line i knew it was a scam

Mike doesnt re-sell plastic any more

you will have to play with the ratios but yes you can just mix them together calhoun does indeed have a med compound as well. i havent seen it for sale for a while though.

wow, price i was given was $725 FOR A 55 Gal drum, hmmmmmmmmm. this was before the latest increase as well.

there is Bears Baits BassTackle LureCraft Kmolds [/url]Del Mart Caney Creek Molds Snake Head the first 3 will give you the absolute BEST customer service for the injector, i would get Bear's Baits medium injectors (2 of them) and the blending block or Bass Tackle's Twinjector. they will facilitate 1 and 2 colour baits with injection molds. salt and scents, i add slowly once the plastic is ready to pour. softener is only needed if you need your finished baits to be softer. i only use it with stick (senko) type baits when adding ridiculous amounts of salt. i hope that answers your questions

I use Soft with salt and softener added for stick baits, and reg soft with very little salt added for everything else. forget the fact that the original poster came in here and asked what formulas most people use so that he could get a starting point. You would figure you would want to encourage someone just starting in this hobby and give them a starting point so they can make a few great baits and build the confidence to start experimenting. not everyone knows everything there is to know about pouring baits like the great PW i wish i was as good as you LMAO

last i talked to another member here Kevin isnt taking on any custom work right now because he is swamped. things may have changed but i talked to this member a couple weeks ago.

do yourself a huge favor and buy an infrared thermometer so you can get an accurate temp reading instead of guessing, i find if the plastic is too hot it will dent more. i would try to have the plastic in the 310 - 320 range. when you shoot the mold, you will see the opening suck the plastic down. top it off as it does this (should only need to do this once)

yes

Lure Crafts, Bears, Bass Tackles and Del's Injectors will all fit each others molds including K-Molds injection molds Injection takes a little bit of playing around to get used to the equipment like anything else. yes there is nothing holding Bears tips in but i find it easier to change tips on the fly to keep going.

maybe CarolinaMike can chime in here but i believe i remember him saying that swirls are achieved by alternately pulsing each nozzle on the big machines. you just have to find that sweet spot with each mold.

dont think so, he normally runs a 1/4" or so runner. i will agree with frank, looks like Kevin's work (basstackle)